vzuden

We use UClear brand communicators. Wireless and no mic, boom or wired. The mics are part of the speakers. No buttons to push for live intercom, we each stream music from our own phone, answer our own phone calls, navigation from my phone comes through the speakers, can talk to other riders. I wear a modular and wife uses full face. Even with music pretty loud I can still hear traffic if need be. Cannot connect through to the bike CB but I rarely use it.

As you are wiring them up it is advised to add a relay. There is a tech write up describing the install

What are the rough dimensions of one of these? Not sure the max size I can print but if it fits I could try it. I would make them out of ABS but I am not familiar with chroming plastic. Most of the work would be in making a 3D rendering. Probably would need an existing sample

Could consistency be affected by the amount you add to the tire? Maybe Eck had a lesser amount so it spread thinner and somewhat dried up? I have not used this product but based upon what I am reading here am strongly considering it

That is correct and I had it happen. Rode the bike to the office, stayed late, was the last one to leave, hit the starter button and it wouldn't turn over. Loud clunk only as the starter engaged the flywheel and couldn't turn the engine over. It was Friday night so after I got a ride home and went back to if Sat am. The first thing I did was pull the plugs. Left rear was dripping with fuel so I had pretty good idea really quick what was going on. After I pulled the other three I turned it over and blew all of the fuel out. I opened all four carb drains one at a time and flushed fuel through them with the pump. The crankcase didn't appear to have any fuel in the oil so I waited till I got home to drain it. Plugs in and it fired right up and thankfully no bent rods. I don't leave the bike sit at all with the petcock on. Made it a habit to turn off before I get off and don't even think about not doing so

As I recall when I had my RSTD the back of the riders seat slid rearward into bracket and the front dropped down for the installation of the two bolts. I have a Mustang RSTD seat set at home that would refresh my memory but won't be home for a couple of weeks. @eusa1 may be able to confirm this attaching method

I can't answer your wheel bearing question but if you haven't done it yet and while you have back wheel off, I would repack the swing arm bearings. There is a write up in the tech section on how to do it.

I picked up a cheap Phillips at harbor freight to reach across from the right side. I don't remember the length - maybe 24"?? Makes it a lot easier

I bought this from my local Yamaha dealer for about the same as this on line price. I think I used two packs for the four baffles in the Baron 4-2-4's. You don't want to pack them too tight. Too tight and it becomes more of a solid mass and loses the muffling quality http://www.mooseracing.com/products/?productGroupId=1684

@tletourneau, we have a member who makes braces you can add to those crash bars to help reduce the likelihood of them bending. Look for CarbonOne in the classifieds.

They look like Baron Nasty Boyz 4-2-4. If so, baffles are removable and can be re packed to quiet them somewhat. If that's what they are, there are a couple different styles of chrome tips available

is that a young puc in that video clip?

Chuck, there are two choices when you go to the Photobucket page. There are files for both 2014 and 2015

Last Bike - 2007 with E3's, stock size, and rear end raised 1 inch.- handled great. Current bike - 2012 model - raised rear and original front with Avon in rear but only because I had a flat and it was all that was available. Will switch to E3's as these wear out

I have gone with the bonded title route before. As I recall the bond would run $100.00 or so. It has been few years ago.

Several months ago I heard they were going to announce in October

A couple of more tips. Watch for the spacer when you pull out the upper rear bolt. They like to roll away and hide. Another is to take the bolts out of the saddlebag. I have left them lay in the bottom of the bag and there are many places for them to hide if you tip the bag or lay it down when you take it off. one more, the left bag may have a cable for the audio system going through a rubber grommet on the front portion of the back. Pull it out before you unbolt the bag.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?72631-Repacking-the-Swing-Arm-Bearings It's been awhile since I had mine apart but did you review this?

Sounds like you have a rich fuel mixture. I would sync the carbs first.

I think I had them in my boat back in the mid '70's. 150hp Merc

My '07 had the same amount of whine as in the video above. I took it to the dealer just before the five year warranty expired. They replaced the basket with the "I" version although I did not confirm. The whine may have been somewhat better but I was accustomed to it and it never really bothered me for 40,000+ miles. Loud pipes and full face helmet may have helped. Or maybe knowing it had straight cut gears and thus I convinced myself it was stronger.???. Anyway, I feel the advantages of the bike outweighed the unusual harmless whine. New bike doesn't whine, yet, anyway

Raising the rear or lowering the front is for improved handling on this bike

I had Baron Nasty Boyz 4-2-4 on my '07 Many people told me they sounded like a small block Chev V-8. I have a used set for sale is you are interested.

A bit of clarification: You can raise the rear end slightly for the same result if you can handle the extra height at the seat.

Ed, Glad to hear you made it through travels safe. Did our quick parking lot repair in St Charles to your passing light bar hold up for the balance of your trip?