vzuden

As slowroll stated, the idea of the increased air is to keep from bottoming out. Mainly for the rear in my experience. I usually run with 2PSI in the front and 40 in the rear for similar weight with two up as you Listed. As others said, you need the special pump

Great pictures Jeff, thanks for sharing them

RE: DuRon's advice: And if you go that far - be sure to clean and repack the swingarm bearings

There are certain years where one of the HD mufflers (right side) contains a catalytic converter. It is best to avoid them. I ran into that (I think mine are from a 2010 model) and ended up using two left side mufflers. The pair I had were free and I purchased the second left muffler for maybe $25.00 on ebay. Possibly 2007 - 2010 but I am not sure. As mentioned, you will need to fabricate a bracket for each side and purchase clamps for the front connection to the header pipes.

Have you ever forgotten to untie the rope from the back of the truck? Looks like a great setup and excellent work on the bike!

You didn't mention it so I will ask...did you really close at the steering neck area? This is a very common place for pinched and shorted wiring

I don't disagree with anything you said except to slightly clarify the I Pass charging process. The toll autobilled to the account is 50% of what you would pay as cash at the toll both. I have had IPass for several years in two different vehicles and never had a problem BUT as screwed up as this state is I know I am long overdue. I do own homes in both Wisconsin and Illinois so I travel the same toll roads you do, zagger but will retire to just Wisconsin in a few years.

Read through the articles in the 2nd Gen Tech Library. There are several that provide tips to correct some of the known shortcomings

Along the same thought process as Puc, for any engine I encounter that has been sitting multiple years, I pull the plugs and spray some engine fogging lube into the cylinders before turning it over. Crank it over a few turns and the put the plugs back in. There's likely surface rust on the cylinder walls and a little lube will help the rings seal.

not worth the chance. I even replaced a new tire with only 400 miles on it

Well.... they could have equipped it with an 8 track tape deck

I like E3's front and rear

Actually it must have been the other current thread on this same subject where it was suggested to contact Jeff

As mentioned earlier in this thread, our member flyinfool makes them. I have one of his and in my opinion it is better than the one from Yamaha. I didn't see that he has an ad in the classifieds so you may want to contact him to see if he has any made up

Don, I have been using the spouts you ordered and they work well. I bought them at a Menards store

You may want to check them within a few minutes of starting a cold engine. After the engine reaches operating temperature the heat produced will spread and equalize across the complete engine.

I usually do close to 10,000 miles on the oil changes in my 1/2 ton truck. I just traded my GMC 5.3L, 250,000 mile on a new ecoboost Ford and it would only need a quart added between changes. It was hard at first, but I switched to depending on the truck's monitor to tell me when it's due. On the bikes, still don't go over 3,000 miles so the Venture gets changed 5 times/year. Always use non-synthetic but the new Ford requires the synthetic so another mindset change.

One of these days I'm sure I will be in the market for one like Don's so I am glad he is going to be testing out for us. I'm still using my 1948 Farmall C with an early '60's Woods 60in deck on 7 acres.

never considered removing the rectifier to remove the filter. I've never found it to be in the way

I have switched to the Mobile M1-110

My service manual lists 7.1 PSI for the front forks. Will they handle 10?

I like to keep my rain gear, cooling vest, and other lightweight things i may need quick access to in the bag on the rack.

Check out Bagger Shield. I use the lower position in hot weather for my lower speed commute to the office and when raining at any time. Higher position for long trips at highway speeds

I would think it is more likely the shock. I had a noisy one on my last bike and shortly after it started leaking. Was replaced under warranty for the leak but it fixed the squeak also. There are several pivot points in the linkage at the shock and these are easy to access and lube so I would start with them. Having said that I just finished cleaning and repacking my swing arm bearings. Just like my last bike there is very little grease in them from the factory. There are just two - one on each side. I did this just in the interest performing the routine maintenance but especially since I was aware how Yamaha skimps on the grease. Factory recommended lube interval is 24,000 km so I can see the dealer wanting to charge you for the repair due to lack of maintenance assuming you hadn't performed this. On the subject of scheduled maintenance and bearings, two weeks ago I pulled the triple tree off to clean and repack the steering head bearings. Just like the swing arm bearings they have very little grease from the factory and also are due at the same time as the swing arm.

+1 on the Royal Gorge. Was there last year