vzuden

People tend think that just because they pay more, it is better. Higher octane is actually poorer quality and cheaper. The oil companies can charge more for it because those with high compression engines don't have a choice and also the general public focuses on the regular grade pricing because that is where the higher volume of sales are. It boils down to charging what the market will bear. There is a website you can go to that will list all stations in your area that are selling non-ethanol. We have a few here and that is what I use in my lawn mowers for all of the above mentioned reasons.

throw in some spare fuses and light bulbs,

A few years ago I switched my old bike to the Mr Gasket pump. Easy install and I put 30,000+ miles on it with no trouble. With no check valve I always did, and still do, turn my fuel off at the petcock whenever I park the bike

A few years ago I switched my old bike to the Mr Gasket pump. Easy install and I put 30,000+ miles on it with no trouble. With no check valve I always did, and still do, turn my fuel off at the petcock whenever I park the bike

You may want to check to see if you just need to replace the contact points in your pump.

I agree with the others who are suggesting the oil coming from the breather. It's pretty quick and easy to pull the tank and air ducts to see if there is oil there. I have had to clean this on a couple of these.

Puc, If a diaphragm has developed cracks and/or holes, are they not a result of the aging and deterioration of the rubber? If so, couldn't one expect new holes or cracks to develop in short order on a repaired diaphragm?

I started using Counteract beads rather than the Dyna brand. I believe it was 3 oz per tire. When I was reading up on them prior to switching to beads there was an advantage to the Counteract brand. I think it was that they are glass and the Dyna are ceramic and the ceramic would wear down quicker. When it's time to change a tire you can drill a hole with a hole saw in the tread of the tire and dump them out to reuse them. That will at least keep them from scattering all over the floor. I have no problem with out of balance tires when using them

That is the pump that will work for both front and rear. The dial increments show the lower amounts. This type of pump is "zero release" so when you are setting the fronts to 2 psi and unscrew it from the fitting you don't lose the small amount of pressure

As slowroll stated, the idea of the increased air is to keep from bottoming out. Mainly for the rear in my experience. I usually run with 2PSI in the front and 40 in the rear for similar weight with two up as you Listed. As others said, you need the special pump

Great pictures Jeff, thanks for sharing them

RE: DuRon's advice: And if you go that far - be sure to clean and repack the swingarm bearings

There are certain years where one of the HD mufflers (right side) contains a catalytic converter. It is best to avoid them. I ran into that (I think mine are from a 2010 model) and ended up using two left side mufflers. The pair I had were free and I purchased the second left muffler for maybe $25.00 on ebay. Possibly 2007 - 2010 but I am not sure. As mentioned, you will need to fabricate a bracket for each side and purchase clamps for the front connection to the header pipes.

Have you ever forgotten to untie the rope from the back of the truck? Looks like a great setup and excellent work on the bike!

You didn't mention it so I will ask...did you really close at the steering neck area? This is a very common place for pinched and shorted wiring

I don't disagree with anything you said except to slightly clarify the I Pass charging process. The toll autobilled to the account is 50% of what you would pay as cash at the toll both. I have had IPass for several years in two different vehicles and never had a problem BUT as screwed up as this state is I know I am long overdue. I do own homes in both Wisconsin and Illinois so I travel the same toll roads you do, zagger but will retire to just Wisconsin in a few years.

Read through the articles in the 2nd Gen Tech Library. There are several that provide tips to correct some of the known shortcomings

Along the same thought process as Puc, for any engine I encounter that has been sitting multiple years, I pull the plugs and spray some engine fogging lube into the cylinders before turning it over. Crank it over a few turns and the put the plugs back in. There's likely surface rust on the cylinder walls and a little lube will help the rings seal.

not worth the chance. I even replaced a new tire with only 400 miles on it

Well.... they could have equipped it with an 8 track tape deck

I like E3's front and rear

Actually it must have been the other current thread on this same subject where it was suggested to contact Jeff

As mentioned earlier in this thread, our member flyinfool makes them. I have one of his and in my opinion it is better than the one from Yamaha. I didn't see that he has an ad in the classifieds so you may want to contact him to see if he has any made up

Don, I have been using the spouts you ordered and they work well. I bought them at a Menards store

You may want to check them within a few minutes of starting a cold engine. After the engine reaches operating temperature the heat produced will spread and equalize across the complete engine.