vzuden

That rider needs some diamond cutting done. Let his sparkling disposition shine

I’ve had one like that for 30years. As stated, green limbs work best and the cutters stay sharp longer. I put down a large tarp near the outlet with edges elevated to help contain the chips. Usually just large diameter limbs holding up the edges and a few on top of the tarp to hold it down

I wish they all had the tailgate step. I have it in my new F150 and for an old guy with bad knees, I would buy another Ford just for that feature.

I used to think I needed a V-8 in my full size trucks too. I bought a new F150 12 months ago with the 3.5L and love it. 21,000 miles and 21-22 MPG on the highway and plenty of power.

Brand new bike (Venture) and on first long trip at 400 miles from home the rear tire was flat in a hotel parking lot. Aired it up and took it to the local dealer and it had two small nails in it about 1/2 inch apart. Luckily they had a new Avon in stock (only the one tire) and it was nearly too old to sell due to the date code. Got a great discount on it and still wore it out before it reached the 5 year mark.

I second that nomination (SE MI)

Both my 2007 and my current 2012 models had very little grease in the swing arm bearings from the factory. In my opinion it would be wise to take them out and repack before tightening them down.

I used to use Panadora but switched to IHeartRadio because I think there are fewer commercials. Free versions of both

I never had the need to tie a clutch or brake lever back on a Venture but I did so several times on mid seventies Honda front brakes. The theory is that the random air bubbles want to rise and do so on their own and eventually find their way to the atmosphere. I didn’t do this as standard procedure, only on the stubborn ones and with success.

I bought them on eBay for my current and previous bikes. Sheepskin97 is the seller

Agreed. That is what I did with mine. I think I used a little moly lube. I don’t think you will need to open them up much

I carry a small compressor in my saddle bag. Added an external power outlet for that and other power needs

Not my bike. The picture was the work of the diamondcut guy and I am pretty sure he cut the fins after someone had painted them to match the bike

The dog bones are the front motor mounts

When looking for a cover I have found this to be a key feature (copied from the one in Condor's link): Weather-protected venting allows vapor escape and helps eliminate condensation

I believe you are thinking of @Rickbutler

Maybe I’m lucky but I have had mine for nearly 6 years without a problem. It is a Custom Dynamics and it did cost a little more

You can purchase wide chrome clamps to use instead of those. I am not close to my bike right now but I think those I have are 1 1/2 inches wide

Take look at the date code on your tires. If they are 5 years or older they need to be replaced and that should make your decision easier. i had an Avon Venom once but on the rear so if it were to have any negative impact on handling I probably didn’t feel it. I had a flat on a trip so I was at the mercy of the closest dealer and it was all they had in stock. That tire served me well and I replaced it at 20,000 miles. Other than that one, all others are E3’s. By the way, Jake Wilson usually has the best price with fast service.

I was listening to a MC podcast a week or two ago and the speaker was relating how he drove his Zero through a stream. The bike was set up as an off-road version with knobby tires. As he proceeded the water level was over the handlebars so it was completely submerged. He crossed or rode through the stream, climbed the bank on the other side, turned around and crossed back over again. Then he had a one hour ride home. It never missed a beat

Dakota, Another thing to look at would be the front tire size. Some of us have switched to the 130 size tire in order to improve low speed handling. I have not done so because in reading posts from others there is a concern of it affecting higher speed handling in a detrimental way. I improved my low speed handling by raising the rear at the shock by changing out the leveling links. Others have accomplished the same by lowering the front at the forks but this would be more for those who cannot afford the slightly higher seat position. It could be your previous owner has changed links/lowered forks plus changed the tire size. I would tend to lean towards the forks being lowered as that may have contributed to your dented front fender. As already mentioned, look into the steering head bearing adjustment. There is a description in the tech area of how to test. Then a shortcut to adjust plus the more involved cleaning and repacking the bearings with adjustment to follow. Personally, I repack the head bearings and the swing arm bearings every 20,000 miles.

i had the tips on all the time so I can't really say whether I would have like them without. They rotate via a set screw so you can direct them to any angle you want

No. Ran like a top to 50,000 miles. I pulled them off when I traded it in on my new one and put back the original mufflers. Sold them to one of our members and I'm pretty sure he's still running with them. I did repack them before I sold them as I was planning on putting them on the new bike but went with Harley take offs instead.

Many of us have installed spacer to move the driving lamps out away from the fairing. You don't have loosen them to split the fairing. Plus it makes for a little easier cleaning and polishing