GaStar

Very informative. Thank you! So it sounds like I'm in line to what I should expect. Perfect. I can still tweek some here and there, maybe do the vacuum line mod, jasons mod, and see what that does. I can always go back stock. They said the K&N filters were just serviced and oiled before I got the bike. I should check them out because they also said they did a fresh oil change as well and it was overfilled above the site glass!

Honestly we didn't have much packed. A few tools, a days worth of clothes and 1 half shell helmet.

In case anybody wants to know, The Moto Horn thats advertised all over FB installs quite easily. I have an 02 and the right side of the bike bolts up with a provided bar to the stock location and uses the stock wiring. The front Horn also bolts to the stock location and uses the stock wiring. The only thing is that you have to treim the black plastic back to the mount bolt above the horn. Not bad and easy to do. Works SO SO SO SO much better. Louder than my Armada. I'm thinking of swapping out it as well.

I just made a 1286 mile round trip from Omaha to Sturgis and back. We ran 2 up with gear, but no more than would fit in the bags. We only were gone for 3 days. My overall mileage was 31.967. I did calculate mileage between fuel stops. When we were running on the scenic roads at 35-45 mph, I seemed to get around 36 mpg. When we were running interstate at 70-75 I was getting 27-28. Does this seem normal to you guys? I've been slowly leaning out the carbs since I bought it. It was so rich that I could smell raw fuel while I was riding and it was really bad at a stop sign. All cylinders are firing. Carbs are synced. Tire pressure has been checked. I'm thinking of doing a Dyno tune. I don't have a gas analyzer.

I'm a little late to the game but in preparation of my departure tomorrow for Sturgis, I have installed the Speedohealer to correct mileage for the trip, verified carbs synced (they were perfect), leaned the carbs, dropped the oil level (it was overfilled above the site glass level), installed the Barons rear lowering kit and lowered the front 1 inch. I'm only 5'9". I needed my feet flat on the ground. Just checked tread depth, 6/32 in the front and 4/32 in the rear. Looks like I will be taking it easy and buying a rear tire when I get back. It's only 600 miles up there from here.

So I bought the Barons rear lowering kit for my 02 RSV because my legs don't hit the ground flatly. The kit was not bad. Instructions are ok. a little vague on the caliper relocation bracket orientation. After I installed that, my GF and I went for a test ride. Immediately we were scraping the exhaust in mild turns. The rear shock was at about 40. So I decided to lower the front. I could not get on the site yesterday to look at the procedure. Luckily I read through it twice and have a repair manual. They said before to take and separate all the wires. That was a LOT OF WIRES! I decided against it. I also had extras from a Bluetooth accessory. What I found instead was that if you are in the garage and have a couple extra ratchet straps available, you can suspend the fairing away from the frontend enough to get all the necessary bolts removed. Saves a lot of time and frustration in my opinion. I also used a ratchet strap to move the forks up in the bracket. Hitting it with my deadblow was getting me nowhere. I removed the top sidebolt clamp with the lower one loosened, sprayed a little PB blaster in the immediate are and then used a large flathead screwdiver to wedge open the clamp just a tiny little bit. I of course cleaned all the penetrant off the forks before reassembly. I'm happy to report that with the 1.5 inch lowered rear, 1 inch lowered front and 58 PSI in the rear shock, we no longer scrape at all and the bike handles wonderfully! So much easier to manage at low speeds and at a stop sign. I can put my feet flatly on the ground and feels so much more stable.

My oil level was above the top of the sight glass! I pulled the plug and drained quite a bit and it is better now.

I had it apart to the point of getting it all out. The kill switch would move up and down but was held in by the red switch on the outside. There were no screws or fasteners that I could see. Yes, little parts like springs that are in there for the cruise cancel are dangerous. I did not lose those thank goodness.

How do I get this off? I tried to pry up with nylon prybars but was afraid I would break it. I’m trying to get to the cruise switch so I can clean the contacts. The resume/accelerate side doesn’t respond very well. TIA!

That's what I thought. Got the iridium plus yesterday. Advance even had a 20% off coupon! Funny part was that the iridium plugs were the only ones I could get locally. The other was not available.....

2002 RSV. 42K Not original as they are NGK DPR8EA-9's. They all smell of gas. Not horribly but enough. All were gapped over .037 as well. I'm debating replacing them. Pic is oriented to each cylinder. Up is front of bike. Manual calls for DPR7EA-9. Autoparts says that these don't fit our bikes. I saw the thread about NGK'S VS E3's. I'm not worried about cost. Suggestions?

Thank you. I like that test method!

Agreed on the oil/gas mix. Was difficult to tell as my hands were nasty from other things at the time. I will check more carefully this weekend. I did check it standing up with a mirror. I will get my GF to help me to check more precisely next time. Thank You

So I did a little cleaning and research. I got the choke to work. The slide mechanism sticks. I can get the choke to open if I pull the knob and push the slide. So the choke is not stuck. I think the wetness may not be gas. Very oily and did not definitively smell gassy. I was told there was a resent oil change and found that if the crankcase was over filled it would blow oil out the top. I checked the level and the sight glass is completely full. So, I'm gonna start with adjusting the oil to the proper level and cleaning the mess up. I also ordered a sync kit because there is a rich smell coming from the exhaust. Thanks for all the responses.

The 2 carbs on the left side of the bike are wet on top. Just bought the bike. 2002 RSV with 42K. Was told the carbs were recently rebuilt. I don't believe this was so. I've also noticed that when I rode it home, the corrected fuel mileage was only 28 MPG. I believe this to be low. The bike starts and runs very well! I never have to touch the choke to start but of course it is summer. That brings me to my next observance. It appears that the choke does not move in and out much at all. Only an 1/8 th of an inch at best. Got down and looked from the bottom and the choke plungers on the left side seem to move very little. These aer the 2 wet carbs. I've owned to RS before. a 96 and 97 RSTD. Never had these issues. I realize now that I need to up my RPMS while riding. Read that doing my research. I am runnig lucas oil fuel system treatment through it currently. Could this help unstick the choke plungers? I do not know where the fuel is coming from, I ran out of cleaner, just very wet on top and up into the plastic box above.