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Off e-bay. Look here for similar lights to mine.

Stay with motorcraft plugs. Its a Ford thats what should be there OEM. Anti seize is your friend. My instructor I'm working with has like 19 yr as a Frod tech. Says its a common problem on the F-150, so any motor like that would be the same.

30w 1200 lumins

Link dont work for me. But if its an H3 bulb they make a CREE LED bulb to fit. Thats what I have in my passing lights. Now they make different lengths of them, so you need to know the depth you have available. I used my calipers to measure how much depth available. If you dont have that, you could use like a tie wrap and push in hold finger at mount hole and then measure what you get to give you depth.

Man thats got to be one of the best descriptions of FB I have ever heard. Bravo

Wifes Durango has had 4 upper ball joints (2 were recall changed) 2 lower joints and 1 tie rod end I think. Truck has about 160k on it. My 96 2500 Ram has about 120k on it. 2 yr ago I put all new upper and lower ball joints in it. But neither goes off pavement much just highways and our roads where I'm at in Fl are pretty decent.

While this is a "Venture" site. I have been educated and re-educated on some electrical systems and wiring etc. For me that has been worth the price of admission. There is a lot more info available here than just for Yamaha's. I am on a couple other sites for different bikes Kawasaki from when I had my Vulcan and recently I have been on the Victory sites doing research. I am on the Delphi Venture forum and those guys are good folks also. But as was mentioned a couple threads up mostly info is exchanged on those. I have met some of the folks on here and from the very first meeting Brake Pad has made me feel welcome and like a part of the group.

I would have to agree. the Face look or whatever it is has killed a number of forums. I belong to an online racing league, the only way we get any info is e-mail or the face thingy. I dont do that so I'm usually behind the curve. Do we have a FB and someone whom watches it and posts pertinent things? I dunno what that would be, but maybe updates on a meet and eat in an area or something. While a thousand members is a large number in my mind, how many were paying members vs trial? I think thinking about adding possibly other yamaha "touring style" (fjr, strat) bike areas may be something to look at. Like someone mentioned we are all riding out of production soon to be antiques, and you have to upgrade or change sometime. I check in a couple times a day. This place is like a family get together. You just never know who is gonna get picked on next.

Just got a HF flyer in mail yesterday. There is a trailer in there wit the little cargo trunk thing installed and 8" tires on it for $379. pn#66771 lot62644 I dont know which number you would need to look up so there is both.

I added a pair of those type lights on my 2 gen. I put mine down by the foot bars. I think they work pretty good and dont suck a lot of power which is good.

I dunno if they are reasons, or excuses. But 1-not everyone can ride 2-I can get on, go for a ride and I have to put out of my mind the troubles-worries-thoughts that are bugging me. Why because motorcycling requires us to pay attention to what the heck we are doing at hand. 3-Things just look different when your out in the wind. Yea cow poo and dead roadkill smell worse, but man its just FUN.

Just south of Avon Park. In the subdivision where you turn in by the Florida Hospital. Might take a road trip here in a week or so over to Ft Myers to look at a scoot.

I first read this all I could think of was the bicycle I bugged my folks for probably a year. http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag62/Kittlebomb/0226131244_zpsa3504154.jpg First bike titled in my name was an RD 350. I had rode some dirt bikes prior. Ran Hodaka 100's for a bit. In volved with a dealer and some kind of promo thing. Would take the Ace and strip lights off and run them. I guess to show them off. I didnt care I got to ride. lol http://tenwheel.com/imgs/a/c/e/l/y/1968_hodaka_ace_100__condition_2_lgw.jpg

The ole Mustangs, Mavericks, Fairmonts or the 70's were terrible. LOL I owned a couple of those and a Merc Monarch (Granada) They always seemed to squeak and rattle. With .250 slop allowed I guess that would explain that.

Was watching "whats in the barn" last year. Dave (or whatever his name escapes me rite now) told the story that the bid went out for a bike in WW 2 of XZY and such and such size motor etc. Indian, Harley and one other built bike for the contract. Harley won out, due to performance. and as Paul Harvey use to say, here's the rest of the story. Harley motor was bigger than anyone else's. So that's why the extra power, but they won the contract and Indian went under shortly after.

Couldnt you just ask one of them Goldwing guys how there bike is? Basicly thats and FB6 rite? Down side to me on Fb was no cruise.

Typically if ball joints are bad you will hear some kind of clunking when pulling into or out of a parking lot or pavement change like that where the wheels go over a bump. Starts out subtle and when bad will be a big clunk.

Yea I remember them days. Even the hard core Harley guys wouldn't touch them. Hd outsourced all kinds of stuff. I understand the wiring was all made in Japan and gave tons of problems. Although now an aficionado tells me you can buy a replacement harness that actually works. They made dirt bikes too, use to see some at the track. Did Harley actually make those engines or were they a Sachs or something? Harley tried to build it up as "American Fun Machine" LOL I knew guys that were more of the "aint fu@# mine" think back of all the stuff that had that AMF Harley emblem attached. Motorcycles, bowling equipment, dirt bikes, snowmobiles and ah yes golf carts.

If front wheels are having wear issues something is bad. ball joints, tie rods something has been made not happy. There is no gauge or wear indicator for the ball joints or tie rods. It is simply a feel type thing for the mechanic. If there is play in those items they can set the front end and when you back out of the parking lot the alignment is off again. So good parts are essential. There were a couple 3 years they had issues with upper ball joints on the mid sized dakota/durangos. 2001-2003 I think. We had a recall and replaced the uppers. The ones I put in when in dealer were MOOG. We have a 2002 durango and I just put all new uppers and lowers in mine @ 160k. My Ram 2500 is a 96 and I put all new ones in it a couple years back around 110k. your local roads are a big factor, pot holes, your drive way transition parking lots all jar the joints. 56k is not terrible for uppers, lowers will usually go further. What I ran into with the wifes Durango was the uppers were bad and one of the lowers was iffy to me. I figured I'm going to spend the money to align it so I will just replace them all. but my labor is free and I didnt have to pay anyone to do the work besides the alignment. It sounds as though the bad part could be isolated to the one side. You should be able to jack up the wheel at question get weight off it. Then use a large bar or something to see if you can get movement up and down in that wheel, if so then you have a bad ball joint. but that would indicate a lower to me, an upper you have to see if you can get movement out of the upper control arm which is a bit more tricky.

I dunno why I was looking here. But looky what I found. A Harley just for you.

Vet yes That typically knocks $1000 off top. Then it looks like this other special they had you could "stack" with it.

Puc the Vic dealer over in Lakeland down here is tryin to get me in trouble too. A "new" 2013 Cross Country Tour for 13K and had an e-mail add for possibly another 2500 off that.

Unless he made the ignition by-pass him self it probably for the RSV. You could rig up a temp fuel tank with say a quart of gas and go for a ride.

I think the gold color is kind of neat. Don't see a lot of bikes that color. Local (sort of) Victory dealer has a nice looking Cross country touring in a cool color you dont see much either. I think that's kind of why I like it. Its called Bronze mist http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/ba/81/5b/ba815bdce6f7090b418ce7f6db3bfee5.jpg

Boy I hate shotgunning a problem like this. There is just so many ways to go. Ignition switch its self could be bad. If has had heavy keys on it over the years it could have the contacts worn out, making minimal contact and when get hot-poof quit. Recycle switch and its all good again for awhile. Could be coil dying. Get hot, resistance goes up and no more sparky sparky. OHM checking is maybe 50/50 at best. Could check fine and the coil is bad in actuality. Pick up coil, same kind of deal. Loose wire on coil or ignition switch. See if you can find a wire diagram for the ignition. Maybe make a by pass for the entire switch and see if that fixs it. Probably can just use a toggle switch for a couple bucks. Hey a thought just popped in my head. Had a friend many years back his would run for oh 30 min or so then slowly loose power and cough out. We stumbled upon the cause and about laughed ourself to death. Fuel line got soft and would collapse. Guess as it got warm under the tank area, line was soft and deteriorated and would suck shut.