djh3

So does engine roll over? Or you get nothing when you thumb the button? If it is the latter, could be your starter button contacts. On the starter relay question. Yes there is a relay for the starter system I believe. Typically they dont go "intermittent" bad. I have not heard of a starter relay going bad. Somewhere on the forum there is a link to a shop manual. It will have the wire diagram.

So you say you have taken the switch apart. Did you clean the contacts up with some sand paper or cloth? Kind of hard to tell you how to OHM it out. I make the by-pass relays. I can also make a keyless set up for you to the OEM key, but I dont realy recomend it, because if its keyless for you it is for a thief also. But there are a couple work arounds. Send me a PM if you need more info.

The Stebel and wolo bad boy horns are about the same. I have also used the knock off ones on e-bay and had no issues. I think Carbon one makes a relay kit for these horns. You have to run a relay for those types of horns because they draw so much more amps. He may still make the stainless brackets too. I made mine out of alum.

I pitty you. I can only slightly remember them days. LOL My son drove my F150 for awhile before we found him his own car. I remember our insurance being high as heck. Good luck

I saw that on news tonight. I said the same thing ab out the shorts. OUCH. So the boat dude is up for about a $380 fine, unsecured load. BFD The biker is out 6grand or more, plus his hospital bills and tow fee.

Start with simple stuff. Check the grounds and hot leads. At both the battery and the ground on the motor. The hot leads at solenoid.

I like the green. Victory came out with an anitfreeze green cross country with black flames. I really liked that look. Congrats.

Well I thoughts of putting it my schedule. But it is my oldest grand daughters birthday weekend. Somehow I'm just pretty sure I cant talk my way out of being at her party that weekend.

Some of our avionics troops had fried a box or 2 in winter when the static charges seemed to store up more.

Saddlebum, may work for some folks. LOL I took over doing my laundry way back when I was active duty. My uniforms allways had hydro fluid, jet fuel or some other kind of crap on them and I wanted to be sure to get it out. Plus at that time the fatigues were not permanent press. Creases had to be right etc.

Dont recall any grommet under those bolts. Under the head of those bolts there is a flat nylon washer. Your not talking about the grommet around the key switch are you?

Not a paint guy wither. But my experience (although on race cars) is any of the flats need a "sealer" coat. I think the matte coat is probably the way to go. As mentioned if gas gets on the flat its going to leave a stain. Now for the side covers. Wont original covers work? Should be able to find some on the cheap. Or going for the kind of old look, how about checking with an upholstery shop and going with a leather or leather look. Just cover the tubes, maybe some custom stitching a logo or name. Could put a pouch on one side for small storage like a phone and stuff.

Well yea I usually measure the stuff. If ya dont it can make a big ole bubbly mess. Then you got to get the shop vac out and leaf blower... Its just a mess.

You did read about our fellow rider over on one of the Vic sites right. He and a buddy were just out for a nice weekend ride, came out from the store with a cold drink and some gal had backed over his bike. If I thought about all the bad things that could happen my head would explode.

Boy thats going to be tough. A Tour Deluxe of the 05-09 vintage was basically a RSV with a windshield instead of a fairing. But also you will have to do something with the radio/cb and speedo. You may be able to find a Tour deluxe and see how much work is involved, then find a crashed one with good frontal parts. I know some of the connectors for like the ignition system ecm and a few other things have different connectors on them. It seems Yamaha used the same wireing but changed up positioning. Some blades run horizontal on RSV say and the opposite on the TD. So whats so bad about the fairing, you dont think you can repair? Gaurentee you would have to go used for parts more than likely.

Hmm Goin fishin here. How did the plug in #1 look? Is the cylinder firing? Checking for a vacuum leak is a good start. Take a piece of safety wire or something and make sure the port actually is open. Compression dont tell you everything. At the school I work at, one of our cars has a bad lifter I think on exhaust side, not sure. But it will pump within like 10-15# of the other cylinders, even with a bad valve. Apparently it will suck in enough air thru whatever valve operates. Not saying thats what you got going on, more of an FYI thing.

Like a lot of companies, they have to diversify and present more products to do different things, or go bust. Shoot look at all the laundry soaps. When they came out with liquid stuff you had to use about a cup for a load. Now you can get away with less than a 1/8 cup.

So.. How do you like the "new" 3rd gen Venture so far?

We used the permatex gold on hot oily bits in the race shop. Red also works good. Hey Puc these sealants we have available now sure beat the heck out of choices years ago dont it. Permatex "aircraft gasket sealer" and yellow dog. If ya rode 2 strokes you all know what yellow dog is. LOL

Not sure on the earlier RSTC. The RSV and TD you remove the front wheel, and up inside the fork there is an allen head bolt. I think it is like 5mm maybe 6mm. So with the valves out of the top, the fluid will flow out pretty good. I just let it drain over night and then buttoned up everything. No flush. The bolts were a PIA to get started again as they hold some part of the spring cartridge together inside the forks. You may have to push the fork up a little to get the bolts to start.

Had a fire alarm go off on us up in Dover Delaware. Was up there for work @ race track. About 3am this ear splitting wooo wooo and flashing lights going off. So we file out to the lobby and nothing. The on duty clerk informs us he was cleaning the sauna area and pool and left the doors open. So we could go back to bed. Ah sure Clyde with all this noise?? It took almost 2 hours for all the fog to clear out and alarms to go off. Well heck by then it was time to get up to go to the track.

On my RSV I went up one thickness from a 5w oem to a 10w. I just took out the schrader valves, put a pan under the forks where the lower drain bolts are. I left it drain over night. The pressure thing is because you will blow the seals out. Now with the drain bolts out the air has somewhere to escape, but would I want to risk having to reseal forks because I was in a rush to get old oil out? Nope.

The shim type set ups tend to "seat" the valves in the head. Thus the clearance gets less. But most folks I have talked back and forth with seldom find valves on these more than a couple mm out of spec, even with 40k or more. I would indefinably say run back thru and recheck everything. At least once more if not twice just to make sure you get the same numbers. There is a an excel spread sheet here on the site that will help you figure out which shims you need based on what is in it. The shop manual has a good chart in it. Remember the clearances are different between exhaust and intakes.

My world now that I have a black bike. I really dont like the black paint. It does look sharp for the 5 minutes or so its clean.

Which kind you talking about. These little button type. Or this cover type.