djh3

Happy Fathers Day. LOL I have spent my first 2 days of "summer vacation" from work Painting tongue a groove planks we are installing on our ceiling on the patio. Today I started and got about 16' by 1.5' wide. Way more time consuming than a fellow would think.

Ah OK. First one I remember seeing was at my base in Oklahoma. MWR (rec dept) had a couple you could rent. We had a Rockwood or something pop up at the time. I think we had more room in it. If we get one now, its got to have indoor plumbing.

+1 On the ground. I would say better than 70% of the stuff we see and teach our guys that something works 1/2 azz is a ground issue. Just think back to the late 70-mid 80 chevy going down the road with a dim headlight. Most of the time its a ground issue. Circuits will find a ground back if theirs is bad, but it is not enough to work properly.

Usually the bolt is 2mm smaller than the wrench that fits. So if a 12mm wrench a 10mm bolt. If its allen head all bets are off. Something like that will probably be a coarser pitch like a 1.25 (fine) or maybe 1.50 In a 10mm. Metric fasteners grade strength go like 8.8 which equals a grade 5 SAE, so for like a grade 8 you need 10.9

Pokin around the WD there is a fuse "#23 Ignition" That leads back to the "igniter" On the the ECU It shows a blk/white wire called (#25)"emergency stop". Simple on off switch circuit to ground.

Da what is it? I knew of a Scamp that was a little egg shaped RV.

No experience with those exact headsets. But it looks like the Expand is water proof. I have the SMH 10 and it works well. Speakers are not great, but probably smaller than the ones your looking at. I have modified my headset/helmet so I can plug in ear buds to get better sound.

I feel like the guy on the transmission commercial. "What sound? GRR A GRR or Wannkee" Is it abrupt shut down like turn key off , loss of power or slow misfire type . To me if its the quick and dirty leads me to lean electrical. Going to have to start jumpering plugs I think. Start with easy one for right handle bar shut off. If you need pins and wire colors Im sure someone can get them if you cant. May have to figure a way to test out ignit I'll on switch just to elminate. It has to let electric flow from battery back down harnes (the larger 2 pin connector red and blue I think) but also in switch send power over to the 3 wire ecm harness to power it. If something along that route was interrupted, no fire.

Hmm what about the cut out switch on the bars? Try a tap or 2 on it while it runs and see if it quits. As for a pinched wire, all the wires for the ignition switch run under the tank and back to the center of the bike by battery. You might just try wiggling the switch. You say its not that old. is it new or just new to you?

Close petcock if really worried about it.

Not a likely issue, but make sure the vent is clear. I doubt thats it because it ran good and it was an all of a sudden thing.

In second gen section repairs there is a write up about swapping to a Mr Gasket fuel pump. Even if you go the Facet one the directions are about the same as the pumps are very similar.

I put a jack stand over on the left side under the crash bar for the bag so it cant go all the way over. It's not 100% straight up but pretty close.

I have used the 3m emblem tape with decent sucess. Make sure the paint is clean, I use alcohol. https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneous-non-automotive/tape/3m-1-4-in-x-5-ft-exterior-attachment-tape/15764_0_0

Once my tube type tires were gone I quit trying to get them buggers to go thru the valve stem. I get the tire to bead up first, then break the bead in a small spot and pour them in and reseat. As far as someone contacting Puc because he expressed an opinion thats BS. Why not just PM or hash it out like the rest of us. GEEZE For the love of........ What if Puc let us know who it was, and we bombard his in box?

If I remember right, you have to take the metal cover thing off. Its like a 4mm allen. Then hold the resevoir by hand and level it up remove cap. Not positive, but 3m makes adhesive for carpet and interior parts. I would get a piece of wood about the size of the pad, then use some gorilla glue or something like that and clamp it down to dry. The 3m glue we use to call yellow dog, but it is actually weather strip adhesive. I just had a block of wood I slipped under the kickstand to level it up. Or the mechanics mirror works, but help yourself out by using a sharpie and mark the level marks so you can identify them when you looking upside down.

Wholy crap!! $27 bucks in beads? Where you buying them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tire-Balancing-Beads-BUY-IN-BULK-10-oz-min-Medium-size/263707557857?hash=item3d6631ffe1:g:TWMAAOSw9mFWNTOC Actually I think the guys I have got mine from on e-bay is checkered flag or something like that.

First I have to say I am not that brave or flushed with $$ to run that fast. But according to this site you should have 2oz of beads. But there is a disclaimer you should read on that page also. If by some chance getting the amount of beads sorted out dont fix it, I would look into a delaminated tire. OR maybe spin 180 on wheel. Beads should balance it no matter, but it could be such a spot in tire it be overcome. Is the "dot" lined up with the valve stem?

The OEM directions for the passing lights had the installer, do exactly that. I prefer to call them guillotine connectors. Because thats exactly what they do eventually do, cut the wires. If you absolutely have to tie in that way, I recommend posi locks, they do not cut thru the wire and they also leave a much cleaner and sealed connection.

Well will be done with work for summer. Unfortunately have someone scheduling a bunch of work, so I dont see a lot of riding going on on my "time off".

Well my experience aint been very good with similar design. I tried a similar plug many years ago "split fire" same type idea a "dual fire" electrode. I had the split fires in a 300 six f 150. When they worked new MPG actually improved by 2-3 mpg highway. But about 10k in truck misfired and started to run like crap. I actually put the old plugs in and it ran better. So a new set of motorcraft plugs went in. Jump forward to about 2005 or so. I was racing a legends car. Engine for them is a Yamaha FJ 1200. I for grins contacted E 3 as they were sort of new and I had not seen them before. The hooked me up with a sponsorship, no money but free plugs for race car, and personal vehicles. About 2 weeks of racing, I started developing a miss under load that got worse and worse. Changed coils, wires, checked grounds fuel all that. Cant be the plugs rite, cause they are new. Well they cooked the ECU. I kept their sticker on the car for the rest of they year, but NGK's went back in after $300+ worth of ignition got replaced. Your results may vary. But for me anything other than like the Bosch or NGK split design has resulted in bag ju ju PS 15 years of being associated with NASCAR and engine tuners/builders NONE of them I had inspected ran those plugs. I'm pretty sure if there was something to them those guys would run them.

I just have a tough time thinking a 8 or 9 year old vehicle with 130k on it is worth 20k. My 96 2500 Cummnis has less miles. I'm just frugal, the wife says cheap. Whatever..... Called Credit Onion and they tell me because of age APR is 6.29 and because of "high mileage" only go 36 months. Hmm I hate to pull that much out of savings but dang. Really would rather have a 2012 up due to diesel engine. I'm OK with a gas rig too. Just happened to be this one is diesel.

I have had the Stebel, current bike has a WOLO and I have 2 of the e-bay knock off jobs that are like $15. All of them sound about the same. Have not had a lick of problems out of any of them, even the Chinese ones. Shoot they are all probably made in the same place. Depending on what day it is as to what sticker goes on it.

Well still on the hunt for a different (new to me) truck. Latest find is a 2010 F 250 4wd with 128k and 6.4l diesel motor. Anyone have one? I dunno it actually has more miles on it then my 96 Ram 2500 cummins. but I am after a crew cab truck. Have ead probably a half dozen or so threads about the 6.4 and cant make any better determination than before. They did have some oil cooler issues, also read about front cover and water cavitation causing wear holes in cover. The regen thing seem to be the biggest sticky point, and the water seperator. I would rather have the newer one but my gosh they want huge money for anything 14 or newer.

This is what I remember from my dad owning a boat when I was a kid. If your liking it GREAT. Have a good time. I just dont have fond memories of, fixing shear pins, running out of gas and paddeling that big ol 14 footer cutty cabin with one paddle. But Oh the action at the boat ramp!!! Priceless.