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I have done that more than once. Clipped it with a glove or something and just enough to disconnect. I have even done it a couple times on the Victory. If you find you would like a by pass relay let me know, as I make them.

GPX format is widely used. SO you can use many programs and save file as GPX. Garmin, I use TYRE a free program.

I like the Shinko 777. Just installed one on my Victory XCT. I am having a small interference issue, but it wouldn't effect you guys. I went from a 180/60-16 to a 180/65-16 Shinko. The being hard to spoon may be because it is a reinforced tire and the sidewall is pretty stiff. But I didnt really have much trouble either. A little dish soap/water mix and no problem.

How much they ding ya for it if ya dont mind sayin.

I switched mine over to LED bulbs for signals and thought I would just "live with" the fast flash thing. I was doing something one day and had the 4 ways on I think and I really could not pick out that the signals were even on they flash so quickly. So I 86'd them to the drawer and put standard bulbs back in. Load resistors are probably the only good way to make them right.

Dude I'm with ya on that. When I was oh 12-14 and went to stock car races seemed they were all 55-57 chevy and fords. When I got to driving age a few years later I was like " man them guys cut all them nice chevys up for stock cars? How stupid" Come around my turn, the amount of 69-72 chevells we cut up and even the 73-77's and mote carlos. Oh my. The monte's made really nice street stockers with the engine set back from factory. My Brother in law currently has a 69 SS camaro all OEM, and a metric 78 up Monte SS thats all stock. Problem is he only drives them like 10 days a year.

First car was 65 Mustang 225 (or whatever the next to highest HP rating was) coupe, 4 spd car. It was a junker. LOL Main brg ratteler Still some good memories. Next Car I had was a 70 Maverick Grabber V-8 factory 3 spd car. Blew that old 3 spd up twice, then went to a 10 bolt top loader. Don long about 69 or so the car compainies started rear wheel horse power rating to thwart insurance companies. Also about 73 is the start of the unleaded fuel, smog pumps. Most compressions dropped from 11: 1 to 9 :1 . One car we had after I got married that was a hoot was a 73 Plymouth Furry 1 unmarked police car. They had killed the 400 magnum and replaced it with a 69 383 hp. Talk about freaking out your friends. Come blasting out to the local drag area with light off until your just about there and flip the headlights and emer flashers on.

Steve you and I are thinking the same. LOL I remember the old Rochester carbs had the bake-o-lite floats and would after awhile just suck fuel in and level would go bad.

$34k base price. 2.3l Ford engine and a 5 spd. Must be like a Focus motor.

Did ya go back and look for it?

Sounds as though the switch is kind of made like a "float type". You mention holes and upside down it puts light out. So it could be like your toilet shut off valve, sticky sometimes. Couple of ways you could go. Price one out and just change it, or get into wire diagram and OHM out the wire back to wherever it goes. If its like I use to run on my electric fuel pumps in race cars, it completes the circuit. Power into something and the sender completes the ground.

I dont know for sure. But I would think the plunger should have some movement, to move fuel.

Had an acquaintance that had a V-rod. He did some longer tours on it and was quite pleased with it. He told me if it would have been put in say an ultra or road glide frame he would have bought one of those. Last I knew he was on a Victory Vision a couple years back. He had put a windshield and some big soft bags on it. I think he said he put like 60k on it before trade. That Nova just looks kinda funny, but so did my mid 80's Suzuki GS with all the fairing and tour bags and trunk.

When I changed pads on the back of my RSV and went with a different compound it had a zzz kind of sound. Come to think of it the XCT does the same thing. Nothing dragging, systems were bled and all good, just makes the goofy sound sometimes

You talking about the heat riser they had in the manifold to promote warm up? Everybody had them, but MOPAR used to rattle and blow those metal gaskets out. The Cheby ones would freeze up, I dont recall any issues with my Ford. Now the "lean burn" stuff Chrysler came up with...omg

I got in a heck of fix with my second gen on a trip. We were up in Canada and I was crossing the boarder. After getting passage which was um its own project, I tossed all my paperwork into my right saddle bag. When we got to the hotel I could not get the bag to open. On the second gen you push the button down and it is supposed to push a plunger down and flip a latch. Somehow it was not releasing. If I remember right a piece of plastic from something got between the latch and the bar it goes around. I thought I was going to have to drill it out to get access to my pass port to get back into the states.

The "best 0il", is clean oil. Basicly the oil dont "wear out", its the additives that are in it.

#13 is a biggie. I had to get new insurance here a few months back. When the gal was asking me about my truck she asked if it had anti-theft. I said "yea its a stick shift" She chuckled and said she understood as she rode a Bike also.

WOW That almost as much as I paid for my XCT at a couple years old and few miles. Its almost more than I'm willing to pay for a new to me pick up.

I got a chance to take it out a day or so back. I rode for awhile @ 50-55, say 20 min, then I bumped up to 60-65, no real noticeable smell. So I turned around and headed home. Bumped it up to around 70+ on way home had a faint smell and when I got home I checked the swing arm and small amount of evidence. It still hits in the center but it is not a wide spot. Very center is maybe 3/8" wide, then 3/8" or so over on either side a mark about 1/4" wide. I painted the swing arm specifically so I could tell if and how much it contacted. I think maybe I will try a few pounds more air pressure. Currently I am run 39 which is what I ran the previous tire at. I need to see what the max was on it and what the max is on this one, I think its 49. I dont want to run it that hard and burn the center out of it. The previous tire was also a 180/65-16. I guess there could be a slight variance in over all diameter between the 2.

Center of tire is what seems to be hitting the swing arm. I hate to run 49 psi in the tire and run the center out of it because it is over pressure for load it is currently carrying. Its almost like the thing acts like a drag slick. Today I did not smell it at 60 but when I bumped it up to 70 for a bit I could. I does not vibrate like if it was out of round or something like that.

I just changed tires on my 2013 Victory. Its a belt drive and mono shock suspension. So the OEM tire is supposed to be a 180/60-16, that size is kind of limited in choice, so last time I went to a 180/65-16 Continental. All was well and I got 10k or so out of it. I ordered a Shinko 777 180/65-16 and installed it a week or so ago. I had only got to ride minimal to store and such maybe 20 miles under 50 or so. Monday I got read to put some miles on it to seat it in and go look at something about 80 miles away. I was heading out of town and got up to about 60 mph, I started to smell rubber. I found a place to pull over and inspect things. It appears the rear tire is making some contact with the swing arm. What the hey the other tire same size and has been fine for 10k. So I go home and put on the lift. I checked the radial run out and came up with maybe .020-.028, lateral was less than about .005. Off came the tire again (which on this is no small job) and got out the grind disk and clearanced the swing arm some. Mainly I just took off the seam of the casting flange and smoothed out the arch in it. No mass amount of material, then I painted it to make it easier to spot any contact. Today I got to take it out for a short ride at speed and it still shows evidence of contact (slight smell, but not like before) and light marking on the swing arm. So do I just rid it out and see if it works itself out? Or what can I do now?

I now after reading some of this that when the light came on very soon it was time to swap the valve.

Good guy that Steve. And now he has lots of spare time. Well unless someone has other ideas about free time. LOL

But they tell me its a "dry heat" so its OK. I lived in Southwest Oklahoma for 20 yr. WE had a couple summers it was in 105+ for weeks. When people give me that dry heat thing I say "yea like an oven or clothes dryer".