djh3

Well, this is interesting. Far as I remember switch is bolted to frame and tank sits around it. I guess heat from engine could rise and create some heat. But this is getting crazy.

So what do you get for that "several hundred dollar dealer prep?" Unfortunately not what you should. While working on a Dodge dealer our PDI was a series of checklists. We signed off on item checked and our name and man number went on them. If something like this happened, well you just didnt want to go there. Reading another post in this thread it is sounding like it might not be just a spot issue. We had a run of Neons I think it was they had come out with additional instructions to tighten wheels. I guess the air wrench on the assembly line went bad for a couple days.

Sliding the forks up does not change the wheel to fender clearance. You are pretty much moving the whole thing up in the triple tree. About an inch is the most you can get. Be careful you dont get them into the fairing. Change to cornering will be minimal. It was one of the best things I did. Lowered forks, the 130 front tire and handlebar set backs.

Hmm Dont know as I can give you an exact answer. Frankly I'm surprised you have a TD and are having switch issues. They typical dont have the issues as the RSV does because just simply dont have the draw of current. Did you actually take the switch apart and clean/file/sand the contacts? I cant say as I ever grabbed a hold of my ignition switch to see how hot it was.

So, does she know exactly how much you sold the boat for? From my experience with boats my dad had when I was a kid, "it's a hole in the water into which you throw your money". But we all have our things we like, I just have never been a boat person much. Congrats on the sale. Winter will be coming, you may find a screamin deal.

What the relay does is keep like 20+ amps of power from arching across some small switch contacts. To run the passing lamps what I did was run them off a fused power from battery thru a relay. You could pull key on power from the relay, but the actual power for lights I would find or make direct power from battery with some 14ga wire.

On the coolant issue kind of easy. Start car let run a little while, feel the radiator hoses. When they start to get warm by radiator move back to firewall and find the heater hoses. Fell them if they are getting warm then you have flow and issue is with blend door.

Not all that uncommon any more with batteries. Use to be a battery would be slow cranking or something for a little while then die. Any more the last 2 bike batteries I had go bad and 2 car/truck batteries same way you describe. Fine and then crap out.

Ah soo sorry. Didnt realize there was a format change there. Then maybe whatever ford product is equivalent. Fusion or taurus maybe?

If at all possible never use those scotch lock things. They end up causing sooo many issues later.

Crown vic of same vintage rear coil springs should work. Probably pick up a pair for under $50 from salvage yard. Other comments on dash and heat sound spot on. The blend door is a dash pull if I'm not mistaken. Ford buried them things.

Well sort of. Yamaha for some reason draws the power thru the switch kind of. When you turn the key it sends all the power thru the switch. Bad thing is the contacts get hot and melt/fry/arc. So I built a plug and play relay that send the load thru a relay when the switch is turned on, vs all the amps running across the contact points.

Ya know it might be me. But I just like different "idealistic" styling. I liked my RSV for sure. I liked the styling of the Vic Vision and I also like the styling of the XCT I have now. Style wise cause they are different and dont have a 1960's looking fairing. I like the angular styling. Sure is a sharp looking machine.

I would look into inspecting the switch. There is a post in the 2nd gen tech about how to fix/clean the switch. If you cant find it let me know I have it saved on the other computer. Also look at the 2 pin plug under tank and make sure it isnt melted. The driving lights is a good place to look for issues too. The "factory" way to wire those is not a good way IMOP.

I admit I did not read thru all the posts. But to me it seems ludicrous you pay out the butt for the bike and it does not have BT audio system. So on I go. My 13 Victory tour has an "option" of a SENA BT module sold seperatly. Arggh so I located the parts, problem to me is supposedly to allow the passenger to participate with audio you have to use 2 of the dongle things @ $90-125 ea.. I have the SMH 10 and they will allow share music. So I connect mine to the bike and then do the share music with passenger.

Everything being "stock" I recommend the fork lowering. I dont know how handy you are, but it can be done in an afternoon for FREE. I think the max you can get is 1 inch, I went 3/4 as I didnt want the tops hitting the fairing and I also wanted to be able to still add air to front shocks. I dont care for the rear lowering as it really lowers the rear but then the front is way up compared to it, so it throws the steering geometry out of whack. Just my thoughts. I'm 5'6"

Yea the GW packs your feet even tighter than a lot of bikes. I had tons of room on my RSV, but I only 5'6". I moved over to a Victory XCT because I am shorter and the bike to me is top heavy. Now also in the same design of the 2nd gen is a Tour Deluxe. made from 2005 to 09 its same engine etc but no trunk or full fairing. They have a big windshield on them like the old Road King I think they call it. Ride sooth like a 2nd gen.

I got a Clymer manual I'll sell ya. I sent you an e-mail. Like I said in it I dont remember which way it went. But I think when I tried just a toggle switch on the ignition switch side the bike will not run as you have to get some power over to ecm. And I truly was trying to figure out how you could get the bike to start without a battery, and a kick starter.

How did you get it to start with no battery connected?

Well here is my experience on the bike insurance. About every 3 years I have to move it to a different company. So go back like 6 years or so. I was with the lizzard, good rates all was good, come renewal went up maybe 20 bucks. Then the following year up another 20 or 30. Third year like 100 bucks, so shopping I go. Ended up with Dairyland, was with them 3 or 4 years and all was good untill this year, rates had went up like 80-100. So now I'm with progressive, I suspect I will be here for a couple years then have to go look again.

I know from the automotive part side, once a manufacture has a superseded part number thats all they carry or produce. So if say they changed the part# and design in 2009 I think someone said, then thats all they have more than likely.

Not saying the gear sets would be "matched" necessarily, but both would be new or 0 wear and start out with new facing. I would look up part number for say a 2014 RSV basket and order that one. I would seriously doubt they have any "old" baskets in stock. chances are a dealer dont stock those things anyways, they drop ship from a warehouse somewhere. So here's another thought, supposedly the RSV motor is the same as the V-Max. Order a V Max basket.

I went up on the weight of front fork oil and didnt worry about air in them much after that.

Higher temps you might try the V-twin oils 20w50. It may help. Dont know about any additives that will help and not make clutch slip. My thoughts on the "I" basket fix is, essentially it takes 2 gears to make the trans work. Engine turns clutch basket say and a gear is attached to it. But it has to drive a gear on transmission, if you only change the clutch basket your only looking at 1/2 the problem.

What I like is the way the tread is. It allows the water to get out of the center. With as much rain as we get and I seem to find most times when I go out it helps it not hydroplane. I saw a you tube video that a fellow was explaining that this type tread patter is less likely to develop that "howl" the E3 gets when worn.