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djh3

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Everything posted by djh3

  1. djh3
    I'm sure any of us that do some of own work on things, mechanical, woodworking etc have had a day when nothing goes right. Well I have had like 2 weeks of this. It started a couple weeks ago I was working on the bike wiring in a headlight modulator. Somehow I blew a fuse. Then putting the fairing back together, that took a couple times to get everything happy. Then a few days later I attemted teh lowering of the front end forks. When back together the handle bars seemed askew to the right. So a day or so later I took it all apart and redid it. The first time I couldnt get the forks to "slide" up so I had to take the wheel off. So you see where this is going right? Nothing is easy. So today I decided to change the plugs in the wifes Durango. I mean heck it only has like 110K on the orginals. So left bank goes OK. First one on the right bank is really tight comming out. So I do the a little out, then back the other way. About 4 or 5 into this program and "snap" @!#$% I'm thinking I broke of the porclen no biggy right? WRONG it snapped off the bolt part of the plug. I have the entire insulator and electrode everything but the threads and the washer flat part that seats. HMM what now. So I calls a friend @ the Dodge house, his suggestion is an ez out. Well I thought of this but was hoping they had something.... well a little more refined. So I did thru the tool box find the ez outs but the dang things all have square drives. And of course all I have is mainly six point sockets. So off the the store to get 1ea 12 point 10mm. So now I tap the ez out in. I have sprayed several liberal shots of liquid wrench at it hoping to relive some of the corrision. I carefully wind out the troublesome piece. It was a bugger bear all the way out. Should I have expected anything else with the luck I have had lately? Certainly not. Finnaly get the bottom part out and look at the threads, argh the last couple on the plug look like crap. I blow out the hole and try to look but heck its a foot below in a hole. Well maybe the new one will thread in. I have the new plug in a piece of 8-10" long fule line to thread in. No go, should I be suprised? Well as luck would have it the spark plug chaser I have aint right, go figure. It probably went to a ford or something I had 20yr ago. lol So off to the store again for thread chaser. The rest of teh job goes OK and the job is done. But man I'm scared to ride with the way my luck has been the last couple weeks. I think I have put probably 100+ iles on the car/bike/truck in the last 2 weeks or so running up to Autozone or Sears or Advance. The to auto parts places aint but maybe 4 miles one way and Sears is maybe 7 one way. I sure hope I have used up my bad luck.
  2. djh3
    If we were getting ahead of this thing (rising fuel cost possible shortages) I'm OK with finding an alternate additive to the fuel. Our bikes can probably be tuned to run on this junk. But it will require rejetting and some other work. Back when I was racing short tracks we had some late model guys running straight alchol thru carbs. But you burn twice as much to go the same distance. For us highway drivers youd be stuck. If your tunned for higher alchol and stop for fuel and all they got is say reg typy gas I think your hosed. Id rather these idiots figure out away to get the economy going than me spend my money on stupid stuff. I can do that myself pretty dang good.
  3. djh3
    Mike, you must have read the posts of me doing mine. I dont know if you would consider me "skilled", but I did mine 3 times. If at first you dont suceed....... Got better each time. I to am more than a couple hundred miles. But there were a couple threads going around about adjusting valves and stuff up in the north Fl area around Jacksonville I think. Hopefully someone will have a chance to help you out.
  4. djh3

    Side LED lite 1

    djh3 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Side LED lite 1

    From the album: Added Lighting

  5. djh3

    Rear Lightbar 1

    djh3 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Rear Lightbar 1

    From the album: Added Lighting

  6. djh3
    LOL yea I know, some folks take it to personal sometimes. I know on the Kawasaki boards same deal. Oil must have had a thousand threads, filters not far behind. Joeranger: no way I can get offended that easy, I'm retired military. We're good man.
  7. djh3
    Yea someone had them posted here in a thread. Was under $10 I think.
  8. djh3
  9. djh3
    Once again it sounds like a job for the dielectric grease. Man theres 2 things I wish now I would have paid better attention in different mechanical schools I went to. Electrical stuff and Carbs. I thought I beat the Carb deal when everything went to FI. But the electric stuff kicks my butt more now. And now I got carbs again ugh
  10. djh3
    @ Wes. Most guys are looking to add chrome and you paint it. A man after my own heart. I have noticed that there seems to be alot of "backside" reflection on this windshield. I think its because of the more or less straight up angle. I would like to maybe some day shorten mine. I can tell its to tall when I get caught in some rain. Living in central Fl, it only a matter of time. Kirby: how and what parts did you make those bushings for the rubber bumpers for the fairing? I noticed today that it sounds as though the fairing has a bit more "rattle" to it. Could it be that the bumpers dont have quite enough support? Let me guess, I'll have to take the risers off yet again to tap the screw holes.
  11. djh3
    I have not looked that close at wiring diagram. You say you have checked the speed sensor. But I was reading in my owners manual the other night (I'm trying to brush up so I dont ask any really silly question or atleast limit them) the bike has to be in 4th or 5th gear to "resume" I would think also to set the cruise. Have you checked this switch/sensor? Maybe its not sensing it is in a gear allowable. Just sort of brain storming man, I'm totaly new to these bikes.
  12. djh3
    Thanks for the idea darkarm. A couple weeks ago when I was looking at this mod I looked at all kinds of posts here. The was one that a fellow had the chrome cover and he just "notched" it where the bars hit. I'm with you all though, with the plastic it aint no big deal.
  13. djh3
    I'll admit it. My grammer and spelling is the pits. The only way I graduated high school english is because she didnt want to see me again the next year I'm sure.
  14. djh3
    I was wondering if a vacum bleeder would do the trick. I had one, but left it in the path of a car once. The end. Ever since all I have ever used is just an old oil bottle with the cap drilled and a line run into the top from the bleeder. If you put a loop in it is sort of acts as a check valve. Clear line works best as you can see the fluid.
  15. djh3
    Well for me I'm glad they used them in some dirt bike. Maybe that will work in my favor when I go to do it as the only bike shop close specializes in them. My guy migh have some if I dont.
  16. djh3
    Yea I know "old thread". but still a good conversation. Last time I cahnged tires on my VN 900 I put the "balance beads" in. They were like a generic dyna bead but still did the same thing. I did have issues once in awhile with a valve core sticking, I read up on it and found out about the "filtered" valve cores. I got a bag full of them for like $3. For whatever reason the filtered core would not fit in the front valve stem (straight type) the rear on a 90 deg as OK. Once in awahile if checking air press even with the valve stem on the bottom of the tire, one of them little buggers might get hung. Not a big problem. Give it a shot of air and it blows it out of the way and set pressure. Checking pressures is the only time I would acasionaly have an issue. As far as balance, I'd say very good. Cant complain in the 8-10K I had them in before I traded. I just found some on e-bay from an outfit in AZ for less than $2 an oz. Has anyone switched over to nitrogen filled tires? I would think you could fill your tires after you mounted them and then go to say a car dealership that has this service and hve them fill them for a small fee. Then it would certainly be dry air. I personaly have had a couple cars tires filled with nitrogen and you still have to check pressures and then if you service them @ home your still putting in regular old air. To me its sort of a gimick. Race cars run it because there is not the varience in pressures when you air up and what it is with a temp difference just sitting, and it is more consistant.
  17. djh3
    Powersports plus $18.20 on your gasket. Also cant do valve check/adj if you ride it some before you do it. Has to be stone cold if I remember correctly. I have an FJ motor in a legends race car I have sync the carbs on. I dont have the fancy 4 place mercury or whatever carb tune. I bought a couple of vacum gauges and do 2 carbs at a time. Man thats been a few years back and I dont even remember how now brown cow. Not as precise I supose.
  18. djh3
    DS, I am new to these bikes also. WE just got ours about a month ago. After reading several posts here and a few Wing posts etc I felt best bang for my buck was going to be the J&M set up. I got them from the wing place mentioned in a previous post, but I got mine off e-bay. I think I got $170 in 2 pair. WE both wear 3/4 helmets. Well actually I wear a 1/2 alot but I put the comm stuff in my 3/4 Bell Mag8. Not to bad of sound, but not concert hall either. The J&M part number is hs 8154. Do a search on it and see what shows up. The half helmet stuff was more when I was looking. Guess they figure more of the american iron folks use that and they can afford it. I dunno
  19. djh3
    I joind, shoot I cant rememeber as a trial member. Just reading up on these bikes. I knew if I bought one I would have to join. For me its worth the $12. I think I have got that much info from the joint.
  20. djh3
    I'm still getting use to the "squeak" or whatever it makes when I have it in a hard turn. Mostly out of the garage or backing out of a parking spot. I dont think there will be much cause for alarm in normal conditions. Glad you got your all finnished up. Man to bad I wasnt still looking for a set, that would be a good price.
  21. djh3
    When I checked mine a little bit ago, if you checked them say 3 times 2 of the 3 you would get the same reading. Dont know if maybe its oil film, maybe something on the calipers. But its definatly worht double checking that the thickness printed on the shim is what you got. Also on the recheck after installing them. I have had one get just a little cocked when you put on in on an FJ1200. It wont necessarly go anywhere, but boy it will probably reak havock until seated. I allways check to see it is seated correctly. Man would it have been so hard to have a set screw and lock nut?
  22. djh3
    Because its a tedious job and I dont like to do things twice like this I allways measure the clearences twice sometimes 3 times. Yea I have had the gauges stick together more than once. Usually I run thru it once all the way measuring twice then go back thru to confirm one last time. Hey I'm not a flat rate mechanic anymore so I can. I'm a retired aircraft mechanic and you dang sure want to make sure they are right when your done. Just checked my supply stock. It seems I'm loaded in the say 268 to 278 range like prob 8 or so. Maybe 6 or so under that but a couple of those are like 210-220. So when time comes I shouldbe OK I hope.
  23. djh3
    I put a reckless motrcycles brand fairing on my 900 Kawai I just traded. I had it for like 3 years. I had to make my own mounts as they dont make one for it. I used brackets I had from Memphis Shades. But I just looked on thier site and being as you know what exactly your looking for you will be able to tell fi they got what you need. Looks like base price is around $350. I got mine off e-bay from them for under $300 I think. But it was 3 yr ago. The base price one dont have a radio or speakers in it. but you can add those when you can aford it. I spent alot of time investigating radios etc. I went with a marine grade pioner unit I think it was. It had a remote you mount up by the handle bars so you could change channels etc. Because of the way I had to mount the radio (it ws a harley fairing) I had to file a tick off the radios heat sink as the radio was about maybe 1/4" to long to fit in the fairing. Well about 2 weeks later it shook something loose in th radio. I ended up going with a little $20 unit from e-bay thats about the size of a credit card. I built a face plate and also mounted an amp and it would blast the speakers. I ended up wiring a jack in so that on long trips I could plug in ear buds and hear much better. Good luck. Lots of folks make fairings, just depends how much you want to give. http://recklessmotorcycles.com/images_html/forroadstarc.jpg Yamaha pic gallery on thier site. Heres one on e-bay with a nice radio set up. Dont say what it is suposed to fit though.
  24. djh3
    I was amazed at how many different sized shims there are diameter wise. These bikes take like nickle sized shims and my Kawasaki took shims about the size of a pencil eraser. Same shim goes in a Honda Cr25 or something. That was a life saver, as I have a guy that does dirt bike work and I knew he would have the shim localy. Not so sure about these big ole jobs. I have no dealer of any sort in town now. Closest one is 40 min away. Then if you look up the prices on a dealer web site crap they want like $10 a piece. From what they said on the Kawaski boards youd be better to be a little loose than tight. What I mean is if it is a .015-.018 your better off to be at the .018 then to shim it and be .014 if you cant make it in the window. The guys looking to do the valve adjustment. Where are you located? What day are you looking at possibly doing this?
  25. djh3
    Yea I know what you mean. I guess thats part of why I'm researching tires for the last few days. I really like the Dunlaps E-3 on it now and would really like to go back with them but I think the best price I have found so far has been in the $140-155 range for rears plus freight. Fronts somewhere like $130's I think Motorcycle superstore has had about the best prices I have seen on the Dunlaps. I had 404's on my last bike a 900 Kawi. I wouldnt put another set of them on for nothing. Still weighing options. But from the looks of things I dont think taking the rear tire off is anything I want to anymore than I have to. lol
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