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djh3

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Everything posted by djh3

  1. djh3
    MY other half is on the phone constantly on the interstate if its a boring spot. I put a "leash" from a camera we had laying around so she cant drop it (ok less likely). I told her if she drops it to bad. I dont know about the tablet thing, the kindle is smaller than our tablet by a few inches I think so might not be to bad. She plays all kinds of games, texts, sometimes even checks the weather ahead. Keeps her ocupied. On our dresser we had in the 80's I'b cruising along and I could feel the bike sort of drift, look in the mirror and she would be nodded out.
  2. djh3
    What I have noticed on mine is much like you say. Turn key on and light flashes, start bike and light comes on. I dont know if its hurting anything or not. I have had a conversation with a fellow RSV rider on anothr board and he reminded me that if I were to do the passing/driving lights that the power wire is to large to go inside the tube and be hidden.Also might not be long enough either.
  3. djh3
    Spitfire, just used a can of the Berrymans up. I bought just for the reasons you said. Directions read almost exactly as Sea Foam, with the exception the B 12 says not to use in diesel engines. Ingredeants looked the same I think but how much of what how knows. I'm suprised some of you all aint brushing your teeth with it. I run 6oz in a tank about every five or six tanks depending on if/when I remember. Ocasionaly I run some of the other carb/injector cleaners thru also.
  4. djh3
    I had a switch installed for my modulator that now the HID is installed is removed. I like the idea of a more or less automatic type deal. Man I hate to think about opeingin up the fairing again and cutting into the harness.
  5. djh3
    So far mine seems OK. I tried to read up on this switch requirement on the Gen 2. Never saw anything. I guess maybe the later stuff dont need it.
  6. djh3
    I have a question on the HID install. The rubber weather seal that goes on the back of the headlight. How did you get it over the HID bulb? What did you do?
  7. djh3
    Check the fuse. I changed out my bulb to a 80/100w and when I pushed the connector on the bulb it puched the connector out the back side of the plug. Like the cover came open. I guess you could use a multi meter and check the plug being you got the fairing apart. I just put an HID kit in mine, so its all apart too.
  8. djh3
    OK everything is installed and works. What did you all do with the rubber weather seal that goes on the back around the bulb? It will not go over the bi-xenon bulb. Did you cut it out so it fits? Thats the only thing I could think of. Right now I havent put the fairing back together awaiting an answer. I also fixed the cheap a$$ passing light set up. My fuse holder was melted and disintagrated when I even tried to look at the fuse. Now its on a realy and has a proper fuse. OK never mind. No way was the seal going to fit around it. First I slit it and no go. I ended up trimming around to fit the bulb. No easy way to go about it. Trial and error. OEM hole size was like .820 and bulb part I was trying to get around was .970 so I had to cut it. Seems to be OK.
  9. djh3
    Only because I was just looking at the Cee Baileys today and saw they come in a light green tint, I'd say its a good guess. On the getting another bike. They way I look at it is most say if you ride you are either going to crash or you have. Once you have your odds of crashing again are back at zero and you start over.
  10. djh3
    Octoberboy: You know your doomed now rite? A year or so ago I was braging on my 96 cummins about how I got 2 new batteries when I bought it and they were I forget how old then. A couple days later er-er-er vroom. Got batteries checked and one had 175 CCA the other under 300.oops
  11. djh3
    OK throw this in: Clutch still part of possibility not fully disengaging. I still find myself shifting with a finger between the bar and clutch lever. Guess its the old school in me, thats the way I learned to ride. Anyways upshifts dont seem to be problem but ocasionaly downshifts are not real smooth, I'm guessing because clutch is not all the way in. So part of his problem could be that. Second part is he said when warm its harder. With engine warmed up things expand right? So tollerances are a bit tighter. But if you hit the RPM right no problem, thats why alot of V-twin folks blip throttle to downshift, well that and so they can hear them loud a$$ pipes make uneeded racket.
  12. djh3
    Yea I know. I just did a project installing an aux fuse box and I was so happy to get it done I had it all put back together and not a single pic. So I need to make a note when I finnish up the rest of project (aiting on HID kit) I'll have to post some pics.
  13. djh3
    Condor-just going off info I had accumulated from other fourms. Biggest complaint was with a tire that had a rib (tread running circumferance) was it liked to wiggle or follow pavment more than the lateral (sport type) pattern. I will say my D404 liked to follow pavment changes more than the E-3's I have now.
  14. djh3
    Sorry but no pics, it didnt happen.
  15. djh3
    On my Kawi I had been running an MP3 in my pocket. But long trips it didnt seem to have enough volume. I looked into something called a boosteroo. It is an inline amp basicly. I found sort of a knock off one on e-bay I actually liiked better because it used a aaa battery instead of the harder to find one for the boosteroo. Which I thin takes a 4a battery.
  16. djh3
    Plastic cover is fine, no need to cut, bend, mutalate unless your trying to do something special. It will bend enough for tight turns. The rubber bumpers I lucked out and bought some milled dowels that bolt to the risers and go right in place of where the handle bars use to be. Still get a rattle every now and then on rough intersections etc. Check this out. Kirby a member here made them. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=51526&d=1287703597
  17. djh3
    So do you run a realy to run the realy? Last time I went to auto parts store to get one they had 3 different types at 3 prices and no difference I could see. All were 30 amp 3 pole I think. One I know you were paying for the name (Hella) but the other 2???? and they were $2 difference except the H one it was like $10-12
  18. djh3
    Mine varies with where/how far I'm going. Allways on the bike is rain gear (I do live in central Fl) bungee cords, spare fuses, short length of wire (emer repair) spare headlight bulb (its burried in the left bag somewhere) first aid kit small. I am thinking of adding a tire plug kit, oh and I got one of them C02 tire inflaters in there too ! Longer trips I add things spare glasses, snacks and the like. Jackets etc. I alos have a pen and paper in trunk for milage. Oh and a decnet working tire gauge.
  19. djh3
    TJ thats alomst the same problem I have with mine. I have been thinking about running some sea foam thru it. I have to run it maybe 15 min with choke almost full on to run at all, and dont even think about changing throttle position.
  20. djh3
    I tried doing a search for reviews. Never found anything, so that sort of makes me suspect. It appears to only have one ear speaker and I dont know how close you wil be able to get that so you can hear it. On my 2 Gen I bought some J&M helmet kits for $160 I think it was for the pair. Not bad but could be better. I am thinking about doing something like a "mic mute" so you have to push a button to talk. The system being "on" all the time makes for a woosh background alot.
  21. djh3
    My thoughts on the subject is if you stay with simular tread design your ok. What I mean is if the typical Michelin has the pattern that the groves wrap around from the side, stay with something simular. Dont try to run say something that has a ribbed design with ribs in center.
  22. djh3
    In my Kawi 900 I used nothing but Mobil 1 in either the 10w40 (winter) or 20w50 summer time here in FL. With the RSV I have only changed the oil once and I actually went with a 50/50 of the Mobil 1 20w50 and the other the Rotella T-6. I had a couple quarts is why. From all the threads I read dealing with oils for these bikes price wise the Rotella T-6 is the best bang for the buck in my book. With the shortened intervals in changes (compaired to my 900) its almost twice as often so the $10 qt of the mobil 1 I didnt feel I was getting my money's worth out of. The T-6 is about $17 a gallon (a tick over $4qt for full syn is a bargin) in Wally world. I am also running the "long" gold purolator filter, more area filtering hopefully means cleaner oil. I wont even use a fram on my lawn mower after what I have read about them in tests.
  23. djh3
    WOW those look WAY different than mine.
  24. djh3
    One tire thread I was reading had an interesting take on the mix-match question. The thought was generaly that although the compund might be slightly different if you stayed with the same style of tread design your OK. So if you look up say the Micheln front and not avail in your size look at tread pattern and match it to something simular. I had D404's on my Kawasaki and in the wet here in Fla they scared me more times than I care to think. I went to Pierrli route 66 and got good milage out of them.
  25. djh3
    Chances are he could maybe drill a hole or elongate one if need be. I think they sort of make the stebel so you can use alot of stock brackets. I just decided to hide mine up front without putting it under the fairing, partially becase I dont have the chrome one. But dang I like that blaster !!!! No more buzzer horn for me.
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