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Everything posted by djh3
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I know old post. But I ran across a couple of vacuum gauges I had previously used to sync my FJ motor I had in a Legends Car. Best to connect all gauges to the same port to verify if they actually read correctly and the same. On the thought of building a liquid type syncronizer I have seen this article before for the $1.55 tool. But when I saw pics of this thing actually built it is massive. Like 4-5' tall and a couple feet wide if you build it for 4 cyl. I had a thought what if you used say a 12" or so wide piece of PVC say 1" diam cap the ends and then install screw in ports. Fill the PVC with your fluid say auto trans fluid. Could you not use shorter hoses then like maybe 2ft long. Sure would make it easier to store.
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I think the least expensive wirless jobs worth having are about $80-100 each. I saw some really cheap ones like $40 each but the reviews said you got exactly what you paid for and they were terrible. A J&M @ motorcycle superstore is listed $115. Std 5 pin din. Which is what I think yours uses also. The cardo and scala stuff wireless starts around $150 I think. $87 ea off e-bay for the J&M. I can see the advantage now to the wireless stuff is you can go blue tooth and then have your phone paired to your headset and your GPS if it has that capability.
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Question on the potion pro tool. Do the vacuum tubes just connect to the top of the unit? What keeps you from sucking the fluid out? Just trying to figure out something here. I have seen discriptions of "homemade" units but most are way bigger and space eating than I want handing around.
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Looks like my sisters house in Taylor with entrance reversed. Oh and th trunk was a nice job too. I dig the blue. Was my first choice when looking for an RSV.
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2 gauge carb syncronization
djh3 replied to djh3's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Yea I thought the best was to hook both gauges to same cyl to make sure they both read the same. I have some restrictors in the lines but the needle still bounced to much for my liking. So I took a piece of 3/4" pvc about 10" long and a couple of end caps and some thread in barbs. Used the PVC as a buffer chamber sort of thing. Took bounce right out. One gauge reads 10lb and the other reads 9 on same cyl. So I checked each cyl with one gauge all the way across and best I could tell they all read pretty close to same. So looks like its good for now. -
I stumbled across a couple of vacum gauges I had in the drawer. If I was to use these to sync up the carbs do I do the left 2 carbs together, then the right 2 and then connect the gauges to say the front left and front right and match them up. That is what I get from the sync article I read here, if I break it down right.
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Im trying to think of what its doing. You plug in power cord and it boots up then you turn off? If you boot it and turn off by putting switch over to right it should stay off I think. If its "off" and you start bike it may be restarting because the starter temp cuts the power off and back on.
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Self cancelling turn signals
djh3 replied to jpa37's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
I just sort of investigated this on the RSV. Its built into the flasher unit somehow. I was installing LED turn signals and thought I would install a LED rated flasher. Turns out I cant as the canceling part is built into the flash unit somehow. -
I just ordered a pair of Michelin Commander II's from Jake Wilson. Previously the least expensive place I found tires was Motorcycle Superstore. I was pretty close to ordering up a pair of Shinko Tourmaster 230 for my 2nd Gen. changed my mind at last moment. the Shinkos would have been $170 from MSS and my Michelins were $258 from JW. I had a Shinko on my 900 Kawi previously and it seemed fine.
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I think that the passing lights is an option. Most dealers add them as its apealing and I think the majority of us like them. Plus if its on when they show you the bike they can add $$ to price for "delaer installed" shop labor and all. VS you just ordering and taking it home and installing yourself.
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I have to agree. I ran manufactures recomended on my Kawi and killed the tires in like 6k maybe 8k. The last say 2-3k of that I had found out to pump them up to like 36-38. Even though the tires were on thier way out it handled completly different.
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Yea its above a pry bar and block of wood deal. However I did see a pic where a fellow was using a flat piece of metal bolted to the cam journal and a piece of all thread. Somehow I'm sure thats not an approved way to get it done.
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Cool Beans, got a long way to go then. Like maybe January.
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While I was exploring wheels on the RC site once I caught my breath I got to wondering about the clearence thing. Shoot on the 900 Kawi I had guys were just going from a 180 to a 200 and had to take out splash inner fenders and such. So going up an inch in wheel size I would think might take some serious cyphern.
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PHEWWWWW I read so much info I confuse myself sometimes........ well ok most times.
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Recalculating.................... Could be worse though. I lived in southwest Oklahoma for 20yrs. You talk about flat and no turn. Man I have run pieces of road there you'd swear you could see the curvature of the earth.
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Maybe a stuck float? Try tapping on float bowl with a hammer handle or screw driver handle. Let sit over night see if it will start in AM and if the over flow problem still is there then try the tapping thing.
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I read tons of reviews on fourms. Not the tire company ones. lol I think the majority of the the posts said they were getting 10K on the commanders. Except on some of the HD fourms. They were in the 8-10k range for some reason. No where did I read about lots of weights to balance, seperations or ill handleing. So I ordered them up. Probably go on in late Sept.
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If I looked it up right it should be this road he is talking about. 35.14355, -82.83881 GPS cordinates.
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I am waiting until Bob gets the super Zoomy new and improved valve tools made. Still probably wont need to adjust, but should check soon I guess. Sitting @ 14500 now.
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Boy that sounds expensive as heck. Is there not a custom wheel outfit that makes a wheel? somethinglike this place. http://rccomponents.com/
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OOPS I'm in trouble then. I had some MOPAR di-eltric grease and took all them apart a few months back and put grease on the pins and parts. Everything still works, so maybe I didnt muck it up as bad as I think.
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