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djh3

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  1. djh3

    Bad boy horn

    djh3 replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    OK at the risk of finding out I'm as stupid as I feel right now I have a question on mounting an aditional stebel/bad boy on the right side. The horn I bought came with a relay harness. Well looking at the harnes and the diagrhams I have it was goofy to say the least. So I wired up acording to the diagrham I have #30 to batt hot, 85 to the pink wire on the orginal hor connector to supply power to set relay, #87 to the horn and 86 to a ground. When I honked the front horn never shut off. So I disconnected fron horn and it sound like it is causing the front relay to engage when you hit the button but will not disengage. What am I missing on wiring this thing up. I'm pretty sure it is probably something simple, but had to shut down the project for the day.
  2. djh3
    Kirby, you did it again. I had sort of thought about that and use some chrome acorn nuts and lock washers. Good idea.
  3. djh3
    I have done that trick, and the super glue and epoxy. All of which work to some extent. Not on this particular item but on simular stuff you just cant get a washer etc on. The right way would be tack weld it I supose.
  4. djh3

    interesting?

    djh3 replied to oldgoat's topic in Watering Hole

    Yea I was going to say it looks alot like a V-max to me. Sure would be easier to start there, less stuff i the dumpster too. Not for me. If I wanted something that looked like that I'd by a Sporster or something, maybe one of the XR harleys
  5. djh3
    Still waiting on delivery. dum d dum d dum
  6. djh3
    Do a search here. I read up on that a few months back. It is als recomended to flush with a vinagar solution to nutralize the old stuff.
  7. djh3
    I would say that alot of the stability in the different jacks we use has to be with the width of the wheels apart and the wheel base of the jack. But my yellow crafstman works OK for me. I sure as heck aint going to get on it with it in the air though.
  8. djh3
    I have the yellow Craftsman job. When I bought it I got it on sale and it was only like $10-15 bucks more than the red and it has a higher capacity if I remember rite. You do know the jacks on most are rebuildable? If not you can usually replace just the bottle jack.
  9. djh3
    Wifes Durango had a simular problem. Start good most of time, once on awhile you hit key---notta. I would clean terminals everything good for a bit. Turned out battery had a couple cells go bad. Still showed good volts etc but on a draw test only half CCA. But first 2 times I had batt ck it showed good. Might check the start button also ck out some of the ignition switch threads. Seems to me I recall reading somethimg like this going on.
  10. djh3
    My stebel was acting up. Sometimes work sometimes needed long time on the button then would work. I shot a little wd40 in it. Now seems to be ok. But I may attempt the lube of the armature. Good info.
  11. djh3
    WOW that sucks. You could sort of tell it wasnt going to be good when the bike was leaned and next pic it was straight up. Also the question of the extra gear comes to mind as a factor. Part of my reasoning for staying off the Dragon last week with the wife. Hope the guy is doing OK.
  12. djh3
    I think alot of the watch points have been touched. I didnt know about the trunks. Rear shock, clutch basket whine. Maybe look at the mount bracket for lowers to see if its cracked, and of course check out the sound system. Jake Wilson had commander II Michelins on sale earlier this month. Happy hunting.
  13. djh3
    Once I get them I'll post some info.
  14. djh3
    I had an early RD350. Way scary fast, first street bike I owned. My brother in-law had the Kawi 250 triple. That was a scat cycle there man. His 250 would spank my RD out of the blocks to about 50. I knew a fellow that had one of the Mach 1 750 triples also. Talk about unsafe at any speed. Yikes.
  15. djh3
    Has anyone tried one of these "knock off" stebel or bad boy looking horn that are on e-bay? I had a tire blow out on my truck and when it did it took the inner fenderwell with it and my air horns. So I needed a horn and saw these on e-bay for around $28 each shipped. Comes with a relay & harness. I got 2, one for truck and the second to add to my stebel thats already on the bike. http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Horn-Air-Horn-Kit-car-vehicle-yacht-boat-motorcycle-bike-RV-Airhorn-Black-/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/$(KGrHqZ,!jgE6lm2KJ5WBO16h9,JVw~~60_35.JPGhttp://mydlady.com/eBay_images/horn/airhornblack_j.jpg
  16. djh3
    Dang missed by ---- that much. lol The fellow with the warning light. I can imagine the light was on because the LED's do not pull as much volt/amp as a std bulb. And thus sets off the warning gizmo on the 1st gen. Thats also why they make your turn signals flash fast. The draw is not what an incandecent bulb is so they flash faster. There is some load something or another deals you can put in the circuit to make it draw right for the flashers. The other option is switch the flasher for an "LED approved" flasher. They are like $6-8. But on the RSV the auto cancel feature is built into the flasher unit.
  17. djh3
    Right center. I bought a couple LED light bars sort of like that. They work great. The replacement bulbs are what I have sort of hit and miss. But @ $3 a pair I aint going to give the guy a bad rating. The front may have something to do with them being a special socket (2nd gen) The OEM bulbs have 3 pegs on them. So bulb may not be sitting just right.
  18. djh3
    I have some of these type I got off e-bay. Put them in turn signals. Fronts seemed less brite when flashing so I took them out. Rears looked brighter, but they will make you signals flash fast. I got one for the tail/brake and just took it out because it didnt look like it was "brite" under braking. It was suposed to be one of those that flashes as you brake also, so maybe the circuit went out for the flash part. For a couple bucks you can try them and see what you think.
  19. djh3
    Sapper-the first link I think it was is an Amp. It had SD card slot, was capable of FM (who listens to AM anyways) and Aux port and USB. I had the little radio deal on mine, it is AM/FM has a clock and an AUX in and headset out port. The Amp you would simply wire into your existing speakers. I bought mine it came with some chicy 2" speakers that are still in the garage somewhere. Only glitch I see with one like this is the antenna. Its attached to the back of the unit. The little credit card radio uses just a wire your suposed to tape on the inside of the faring. I made a socket so I could hook a car antenna to it. If you go with this type make sure you get a DC power cord. I picked this one over the one I had in the link because this one actually has a read out for what channel your on. The remote I would put a piece of velcro on the rubber on the tank and one on remote and stick it to it on trips or when you want. http://www.pennybuying.com/pbuying/nEO_IMG_F978B-1.jpg
  20. djh3

    Trailer Idea

    djh3 replied to Colonel's topic in Trailer Talk

    OK so what bout one of these? Legends car. They come in several different "old" body styles, coups and sedans. Or the second boady is a bit smaller type mounted on a go cart frame.
  21. djh3
    I did a little reading here and there. On another venture site a fellow had a write up about "linking" the front and rear brakes. Does this kit do this? Is this something maybe to look into? Is there a brake "upgrade" for the rear. I have read something about an R1 mod. Is that just so you get the alum pistons for the calipers? What does it do for you?
  22. djh3
    Thats pretty neat a company wants to work with bikers and help folks out. Instead of reaming them a new one because it might be a special part or something.
  23. djh3
    On my 900 Kawasaki I had a reckless motorcycle fairing. It was for a HD. Anyways I tried 3 different "car" radios in it. None survived. I started with a Pyle marine type PLCD15MR Problem I had was the slot in the fairing I had to "shave" off some of the heat sink off the top rear of the radio. I lasted a few weeks and something insid shook loose and no more worky worky. Also no warrenty as I had modified it. I still have to old unit and can measure it it up you decide to go that route. I'm pretty sure you will need some sort of bracket on the back side to help support. So then I tried 2 different Sony or something from Wal-Mart. Suposedly were ATV/off road types. I forget what went south on the first, but the second only worked a week. What I ended up doing was using a small "credit card" sized radio, and added an amp. Would something like this work for you? I used a radio like this. And than I used a simular looking amp to the link already posted. However it was not remote. Actually this unit looks pretty good. FM/has an SD card slot/USB and aux input. I made a cover plate out of thin alum where the radio went and then took the face plate off the amp unit and drilled holes etc and mounted it where radio use to be. http://i336.photobucket.com/albums/n360/gemma_ward123/IMG_4643_.jpg
  24. djh3
    Could have said it looked like the after effects of beer.
  25. djh3
    Yup sort of. Well it did. Now looks closer to apple juice.
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