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djh3

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Everything posted by djh3

  1. djh3
    Art I had to laugh at your comment. I would have killed for something 12v to give me some light at the race track in the pits on a Sat night sometimes. Sounds like a good option. Maybe wire one up by the BBQ off an old cell phone charger.
  2. djh3
    Thanks guys. I have alure clear lens with 35w halogens in there now. They do a good job and I adjusted them to fill in the "hole" created by the HID on hi beam. Thats what I would need a replacment to do. The PIAA replacement bulbs have been recomended but heck they are more than replacing with the LED's and thats sort of why looking LED route. The halogens look yellowish compaired to the HID.
  3. djh3
    I was wondering spec wise how the ones I listed would stack up agains the northern tools ones or just regular sealed beams. Is the 800 lums going to be enough? Sounds like being the others are somewhere in the 300 range I think. Also the 120 deg spread is that about what the standard type halogen clear lens are? I dont want to put these in and find out I went backwards. Shoot if I wante to do that I'll put the sealed beams back in.
  4. djh3
    Ran across these lights on another fourm. I'm kind of un-schooled on the light thing so I dont know if they would be worth swapping for my halogen passing lights. I have been thinking about the ones northern tool seels that a few fellas have said you pull the bulb out of the rubber housing and install on the bike. High Power 9W, 12V AC/DC PAR36 ‘Well’ Lamp Suitable for Landscape ‘Well Light’ replacement Equivalent to 60W Halogen, with 85% Energy saving Luminous flux: >800LM, 120 degree spread Color temperature: 2700K-3000K, Warm-white, CRI > 70Ra Protect level: IP65 (Splash / Waterjet proof) No UV or IR radiation, low heat Base: Bi-Pin Size: DiaØ113 * 60mm Light source: 60 x SMT 5050 LED Life: 50,000 hours, min 70% of initial output. 1 year warranty $26 a piece
  5. djh3
    Depending on the load maybe a 1/2 ton with a set of "air bag" helpers. For me the biggest thing with pulling a trailer with a 1/2 ton is gearing. They gear them tall to get some mpg. I had a 98 Dakota with the 318 in it and like 355 gears, pulled my 8x16 trailer with legends car no sweat. (trailer had brakes) Same trailer with replacment truck was a 98 or so 1/2 full size ram short bed. Not a happy deal. Even the small trailer seemed to make the truck move around alot. The gears in the full size truck were 323 or so. That may be a point of interest in a 4wd, they usually come with stiffer gearing. But then your going to loose around 3% milage with extra weight etc involving the transfer case and extra drive axle etc. More $hit to go wrong. Ford diesels had a bunch of years where they broke head bolts about 50K, couple grand to fix them. suposedly its fixed from like 2010 up I think. I have an old Cummins in a Dodge and its yet to hook to something I cant move. I did swap out rearends after I got it. It had 411 gears and topped out at 72 mph.
  6. djh3
    Well now you have me interested. What size is that gomer. I got a box full of odd and end combo wrenches.
  7. djh3
    Had to laugh at the shift point thing for the CT90. thats sort of what I was thinking. Except they only had 4 gears.
  8. djh3
    Hmm cant get a box end wrench on it? The one thing about the cheapo chinese stuff is if you only need it once or twice and throw it away you dont feel like your out much. I have went to Harbor Freight and bough chepo wrenchs and made "special" tools before. No more than you use them they work out OK. Good idea though. And no bloody knuckles, bonus.
  9. djh3
    You know you have done a job way to many times when you can go to the tool box and get all the right tools first time around. I know you feel sort of silly, but your no different than a fellow that would work at the dealrship really. Only difference is you were trying to save a couple bucks by only replacing what really needed to be replaced. Dealership probably would have thrown parts at it just to be on "safe side". You done good.
  10. djh3
    I dunno. The "biker" guys I knew of old the activists would be luck to be found at all.
  11. djh3
    I think I went with the HH pads. Will have to look and confirm the clip is correct. But I double checked it before I put it together. But its worth a look again I supose. Dont really sound like a rattle though.
  12. djh3
    I recently changed out my rear pads. Brakes have been completly flushed and operate fine. But when I apply the rear brake I hear a sort of clicking sound I never heard before. Almost sounds like crickets or something. Dont hear it if you only apply front brakes. I was thinking maybe it was because now there is more pad to cross over the vent holes in disk. But why wouldnt you hear it from the front.
  13. djh3

    Joined a Club

    djh3 replied to SilvrT's topic in Watering Hole

    WE too have flirted with the idea of joining a group. We havent been in a club since the early 80's probably back in Oklahoma. Just havent found a group of folks that fit, like you said. The larger group around here to me seems to want to ride from one adult beverage establishment to maybe another and spend most of the day there. Then come home Sun eve or whatever and thats a day of riding. Maybe its because thier ears hurt from all the racket or thier butt hurts from no suspension. So far the closest fit I think I have seen is a group of ex-military vets from all braches of the services. Hard to find folks that like to ride the same way. Congrats on your new friends.
  14. djh3
    I have yet to use "full choke" but I do live in Fla. In Oct the wife and I were in NC mountians. A couple mornings it was mid-upper 40's still just a slight pull out on the choke maybe 1/4 from off position and it started fine. Let warm a couple minutes and take off, a couple more minutes and shove it off. If it dont buck trying to take off the next time your good to go. These carbs are a little different than the old carbs of say the 70's I was use to. These suposedly have a heat coil in them that speeds the warm up progress. As for the shif recomendations. No flippin way. Youl get runed over. The bike will be chugging so bad. I'm not saying take first up to 40 or anything but you need to let it get some speed. 40 is doable if you need to. I would say you can add atleast 10 mph to the figures and be safe, and still on the low side of what the bike likes. 5th I try to stay out of under 50-55 mph. And I find I get better mpg @ 75-80 than I do @ 65-70.
  15. djh3
    I agree on the local repair option. I would shop around your town, surely someone does leather repair. Maybe try a local boat repair shop. If they cant fix it they may be able to set you in the right direction who can.
  16. djh3
    I read up on some caliper stuff here a few weeks back. There was some discussion on corrosion on the pisons I think as they are aluminum. R1 or some sport bike has a stainless steel pistons of the same size. Just an option if yours are junk. Some scotch brite is handy also along with brake kleen of course. DOT 4 brake fluid remember.
  17. djh3
    Dont recall seeing one like that. Is that on the left side by drivers floorboard? I'll look around some places tonite and see if I come up with anything.
  18. djh3
    Other option might be to visit your local pull a part salvage yard. Look thru thier box of knobs for car radios. I'm sure they got one. But Radio Shack shouldbe a good plan also.
  19. djh3
    I might would make sure had a fresh change before I left and just ride it out. Other option is like someone suggested, buy a disposable type drain pan maybe a turkey roast pan (alum a couple bucks) and then just go out in the autozone or equivalant parts store and change the oil. Turn in the oil and filter and on your way again in maybe an hour.
  20. djh3
    Also a pends-on sort of guy. Mostly around town and back and forth to airport for work I wear the shorty. I'll leave it on the seat with gloves under it if its short time. Say hour or so. If I'm out on the road and got the Bell with my radio/headset gear in it I'll usually lock it up if its outa site for more than a few minutes. We try to put them in the trunk if there is room. The helmet locks are really a PIA to use if you ask me.
  21. djh3
    I can think of several with a Washington DC address.
  22. djh3
    Yea I noticed I had to turn the phone way up. 2 things happen when I do that. A warning about possible hearing damage (I supose thats true if you had ear buds in). Also it sounds as though it distorts. So I cant really turn it up to say 10 I can only run around 7 say. I dont know what the exact setting is, but you get my drift. I also tried running my boosteroo on the phone but the battery croaked about 10-15 min in so not much comparison time. Also it will run the battery in the phone down quicker, but I have a charger hooked up if playing music from phone. I learned the hard way it dont last very long.
  23. djh3
    I was messing around the other day and using my cell phone for Pandora. After awhile I switched to regular FM radio. I had to really turn down the volume as it about blew my ears out. I flipped on the CD to listen to something after that and had to turn down a little more, not as much as before. Of all the music I would have to say the CD player has the clearest and loudest out put. The Aux the least. Why? Maybe because you have to run it thru so many cables etc to get anything? Just wondering, and has anyone else experienced the same?
  24. djh3
    Yea the steel grating use to really do me in. Lots of handlebar wobble. I guess because the old bikes tires were not as wide. If you look at the color pic you can see the grating was the entire section in the middle. The old bridge in Chrleston SC that went over the bay use to be a doozy too. Something about that bridge sticks in my head too. I think this is the one. http://xpda.com/lakeland01/norfolk/Img_8652.jpg
  25. djh3
    Hmm I'm sure some wayyyy more knowledgable guys on carbs than me will chime in, but my couple of ideas are. 1) You say accelerated quicker than "normal". Maybe just cleaned some gunk out, plugs jets etc. Back in the day when I worked in a garage before we did a tune up we use to take the car for a drive and stand on it hard a few times to blow out the carbon etc. 2)You forgot what the power band felt like. Seriously I would think if it idles correct and your milage aint in the crapper the carbs would be close. I also remember from working in the shop that quickly closing the throttle at say 60 or so and letting it loose some speed cleared jets out along with closing off the throat of the carb with your hand. We used to spray some water down the carb to break up carbon deposits once they started with the cat converters and there wasnt any spray cleaners at the time to use.
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