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Everything posted by djh3
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+1 on TYRE. I find mapsource or Base Camp a major PIA. I cant get a route plotted with either one. I have used Microsoft Streets and trips for years and printed out the map and instructions and put them in my tank bag. But unfortunatly Microsoft format and the Garmin dont play nice together. So I had to find something else and the folks over on a GPs site turned me on to the TYRE deal. Its easy to understand how to put point in, works with Google maps so you can actually see pics of where your planning on going. Only thing I wish it had was something so you could plot your trip day by including stops. If you can make the mapsource stuff work more power to you I guess, I just never could make heads or tails.
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Congrats. I retired out of the Military with 20. Had to get a job almost as soon as I got out because it just dont pay enough on mil ret pay. Well if I lived in a cardboard box maybe. Retired in 96
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Good thing it wasnt the old "good stuff" carb cleaner, you would be in trouble. lol Seriously though glad things are looking OK. Any of us that have worked in the automotive repair industry have probably had this kind of thing happen at on time or another. Usualy when it bites you is when you have "just one small thing to finnish or touch up" and you lay the glasses off to the side. Cant count the amount of times I have had brake klean or carb cleaner in the eyeball. Thanks for the reminder.
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When I was doing FJ 1200 Legend car motors I would pull out some odd numbered shims. Why the factory would have say a .027 and aftermarket all you could find would be say a .025 or .030. (decimal place not withstanding) Its a good thing I had the chart to be able to say "OK there is a 27 in now and I need to be @ XX so I need a XYZ size" I have a plastic bag with quite a few shims. I kow I have a few over the 300 range. I allways figured if you neede them the valve was a bout to be pulled thru the head.
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I am pretty particular about dropping my lid. On the lawsuits its the next best thing to hitting the loto, and probably easier to get money. File a lawsuit start to make big stinky settle out of court to keep big name company out of news and weeee off to the bank we go.
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I was investigating simular posts to this because one of my current helmets is going on 6yr in my posesition. In the racing world in which I work we deal with a little higher certification all helmets MUST be SFI rated. How this is different from SNELL I'm not sure but I think its more an internantional set of rules. Anyways Anything made before 2005 is out. But some of that is a CYA deal, you kow lawers and all that. My buddy had his favorite half helmet sitting on a bench in the garage over the winter a couple years back. His son was working in the garage and spilled belive it or not some car wash soap on the helmet. When my buddy went to pick the helmet up in the spring or whenever to move it it had this goo consitancy junk on it. So he wipped it off. Well it took the matte black finnish right off with it. I told him he might want to look for a new lid, because if the soap did that to the paint there aint no telling what it did to the shell. My helmets are in good shape and havent been dropped or banged around. Not to discused looking inside neither. lol 5-6yr is proba a good "rule of thumb" to look at replacing them I would say 10 is not out of usefullness, especially if you ride it around in the trunk most of the time. Good thing big brother hasnt inculded this in some of thier "helpfull" rules and roadside checks.
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I think you got a 2 part trouble here, I dont think they are connected. Just unfortunatly they went ka-put at the same time. Horn I would check mounting bolts and points and wire connections. Is the horn on a fused relay with direct power? When you roll the volume knob does it make the "beep" sound? Have you got an old speaker around? Try checking out the speakers. Look for the normal stuff that causes trouble first instead of the out of left field stuff. I'm thinking something in the ground system. The horn is powered all the time, what actually makes it work is the horn button connects the ground. Yea I know sounds bass akwards but thats they way they do it.
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Could freeze it up and have ice races or play hockey. Well would have to be college or semi-pro I guess huh?
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I somewhat agree with the "pointy part away" theroy. ME thinks the biggest reason for the "TDC" rule of thumb is a consistant measring point. Match the "TDC" up rotate one time match mark again etc, you "should" be measuring cams in identical locations of travel. I belive the theroy is correct if you have been around engines and understand them that if the lobe of the cam is away from the contact surface it is disengaged. With that said I use the ole tried and true TDC methiod too. As for actual experence on these things. I aint been there yet, my FJ 1200 wasnt to bad.
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I keep the rain gear and bugee cords, tire plug and inflater kit in the left, well and the CD player when its installed. Right side is tool kit (OEM) and a few other assorted goods for bike as you say.
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Gas did the HUGE jump here Christmas day. We had relatives come over for dinner. Gas was $3.11-3.14 a gal @ say 11 am. When they left around 5-530 my brother in law called on the way out of town and said gas had went up to $3.26 gal. How in the heck could it go up on a day when the distributership is closed? I think they saw an opertunity to rip people off if they needed fuel late in the day. Bad thing is it aint went back down. Guess they figure if we are going to drive off the fiscal cliff they are going to try to slow us down some.
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I saw a couple of posts for stereo amps, but thats not what I was looking for. I am trying to boost the input on the AUX side. GPS dont seem to be to bad but if I use my phone for Pandora I really have to crank it up and then the quality suffers some. I have used a booteroo type amp in the phone side and it seemed to help but the battery dies in a few hours. I was thinking about just mounting it under the fairing when I install a splitter, but would have to fiure out a way to make a battery elminator and wire it straight in to a power source. I did see a fancy little unit with like 3 or 4 inputs and a volume knob but it was like $150. Any ideas?
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Replacing brake lines per maintance schedule recomendations.
djh3 replied to dingy's topic in Watering Hole
Hmm could someone point me in the direction of the "linked" brake thread. Which is OEM? sounds backwards. To bad ABS is not an option. -
So am I correct in my thinking that if you wired up your HID kit with a relay (as well you should have) you should be able to just plug this relay in its place? Provided you ensure the wireing is done to thier spec. Definatly sounds like an option. Pretty sure I could remove my on/off switch without much trouble.
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I'm on the Fla e-mail list. Seems most so far have not worked out with my schedule or area. I paln on making some. Maybe see ya there.
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I bought a "motorcycle" specific kit and the was plenty of power lead in mine also. Not sure but my recolection the only guys that have had to add wire were ones that bought an auto kit and split it with a friend. I could be mistaken.
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I knew I had seen them before just couldnt remember the name. Cruz tools is it. They also have on thier site a fold out allen tool that has a fixture for some sockets. Looks pretty handy. http://www.cruztools.com/products/prodimages/RTM3a.jpghttp://www.cruztools.com/products/prodimages/om14.jpg E-bay listings. Wrenches definatly look better then the stamped out yamaha jobbies.
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RSV fork spring, stock or aftermarket picture
djh3 replied to dingy's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Hmm got me. Are the coils evenly spaced? Wire same size all the way up? I think the aftermarket stuff is "progressive" wound. Really tight on atleast one end. Looks like this. My bet is those are stockers.- 4 replies
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So was my 80/100 bulb. If they got time to mess with me for that kinda crap the law enforcment guys got to much time on thier hands. (my theroy) If your not being stupid probably not going to get a second look. I do carry a OEM bulb with me, incase the HID goes south though.
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For the money they want for the factory one there (on e-bay) I would probably just go to like Cycle Gear or Motorcycle Superstore and get something like this. Other places to look are Jafrum, Leather Up.com Check e-bay Honestly what I have seen in my tool kit the only usable thing might be the screwdriver and 10mm wrench. I did like the cell phone AAA card answer though.
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David, a bunch of us have the RK mufflers of one sort or another on either the RSV or RSTD. Under throttle they are a little louder as has been mentioned but at sustained highway type driving if they are louder its not all that noticable. Nice sound, I still have the stock ones and its easiy enough to go back and forth if you want. My RSV is lowered in the front and so far I havent drug the HD cans, maybe I'm to chicken to get it that far over. I have not heard of anyone needing to rejet due to just changing mufflers. A carb sync may be in the future though. Pretty easy job if you got the right tools I hear.
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Hmm that makes it a bit tough.