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djh3

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Everything posted by djh3

  1. Sumnabeach htese are what I ordered. Looks to be the bands are 2 red a yellow and then another red. Could be an orange a red a yellow and red. And I just got back from RS. I bought a trimmer pot thinking maybe I could use that. Fixed a messed up fuel gauge reading with one before as it let me adjust the ohm to where I wanted it. Now if I can figure out how to wire it to make it work. Also bought a pkg of 47 ohm resistors like 5 to a pack. NTE 1W433-10 - Resistor-1W 330K Ohm 2%
  2. Single wire lite, right now I have a wire screwed to the ground strap. If I hook light straight to power it works. I check power at battery and I have like 12.95v, put the resistor on the battery and check output its @ 12.46 or so, connect light------nothing. The spec on the light say 12v +- 2v, but obviously that aint working. Stripes for diodes are towards bulb side. I get readings at output points of wires so that tells me I have those in right. Really odd. Off to the shack for some buddy connectors to put over on the flasher unit. Nothing worth taking pics of yet. Only my hair laying on the floor from pulling it out. 330K ohm resitor 1/2w resistor is in what should be the running/tail light circuit.
  3. No I soldered wire onto the back of connectors going out to rear fender in battery area that I got an indication were the turn signal wires. A brown and green. But wont make light flash. Also the "power" from the running lights will not make the light come on. So I took straight power feed, put on of the reisestors on it then connected the light. Nothing, so I would have to guess it is not allowing enough power thru to light it. I put a jumper feed down by the flasher unit and can get the light to work with signal. Also went all the way back to rear turn signal, pulled bulb and touched contacts and it works as a flash there. Only thing I can think of is maybe not enough signal comming thru where I picked it up under seat area. I dunno
  4. I really liked the Kawasaki Voyager, then they came out with the trunkless job Vaquero. It comes in black or a red with blacked out trim and engine bits. I looked one over at a dealer. Sat on it checked things out. I dont think the heat issue is quite as bad on the Vaquero as the Voyager and suposedly they got that "fixed" But the seat for the 10 min I sat on it was dang uncomfortable. So rite of the git go youd have to put a seat on it, I bet the Honda you could ride from shore to shore and not change anything.
  5. I did see a write up I thought here in the First gen side about a fellow that used a 2 into one auto exhaust adapter and mounted up a pair of glass packs. Dont think I would go the glass pack route but it does give some options. I would think the HD Mufflers are to long. Maybe a pair off a sportster. There ought to be a millon of those around as nobody has OEM's on a sportster, its not allowed I think.
  6. Worked on this project a little today. I soldered together one circuit (which I think is correct) and got nothing. With just running lights on I get something like 10.9 volts. Signals on no reading. But connecting the LED light I got nothing. Checked a couple of things, double checked ground. Of course I put shrink sleve over everything so I'll have to cut all that off to go backwards checking. I had , had enough and back was starting to get to me so I decided to just call it a night.
  7. djh3

    Funny Now

    That sounds lik a "tool time Tim" saying.
  8. I could go for one of these. A wing not so much, just sportyer looking I guess. Not all that extra plastic stuff hanging on it too. For me I would have to add a luggage rack and passenger backrest for the navagator but thats OK.
  9. SIlver, you sayin its a honey pot that use to go by the bed at night?
  10. Ruger is coming out with a new pistol in honor of the United States Senate and House of Representatives. It will be named the "Congressman." http://f1103.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f302230%5fANgIw0MAAKwDUPGG%2fgaMFyivfkM&pid=2&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailClassic It doesn't work and you can't fire it.
  11. I would say if its been sealed good with cap its fine. I mean how do you know how old the oil your going to buy off the shelf is? Does it have a sell by date? Yes formulas change, but if its a abc123 spec oil thats what the spec is from the time they make it until discontinued. Look at the API specs, when ever the car manufactures change up stuff they "invent" new specs for the oil. SA, SF, SG CG etc. Newer spec oil may superceed old spec and include them thus no one makes them any more because the newer spec covers it.
  12. I thought it was a air cleaner cover for a HD.
  13. Scott, Autozone has a loan a tool program and probably has the tool your looking for. First pair I put on my RSV the RK muffs went right on. Took a little wiggling around in a small circles but went on once got the end started over Yamie pipe. This pair (I changed to the slash cut version) was much tighter. I was sort of in a hurry to get them on, so of course they were going to be trouble makers. Couldnt hardly get them to start over end of Yamie pipes. I dug thru tool box looking for a socket and naada. Over in the corner of the garage I had a piece of pipe just a tad to big, was probably the right size but with muff being squoze down didnt fit. I ground a taper on to it and then put in vise and worked muff on it a little so I could get started on pipes on bike. If they will go over the pipe push on and rotate around and around in small circles until you can get some larger circles worked in then move it further up pipe. The last 3/4" of inch or so I used a 2x4 and hammer to make sure was far enough up. Some anti-siez on the pipes will go along way in helping also.
  14. djh3

    Funny Now

    I have to pick only one dumb a$$ thing I've done working on stuff. Man thats hard. Sort of like Flyinfools deal building a stock car. I was welding with an old barn box lincoln welder. I had on a cotton long sleve fatigue work shirt to protect my arms. I had been "popped and burned" a couple times by slag of the pipe I was welding. Being I was making quite a few welds inside the car on the cage I thought I really needed the long sleeves. Well I'm crouched in the car welding an overhead sort of joint. Buzz buzz pop pop, anyone who has welded with one of these things knows how it goes, I think 7018 rod. So I feel my leg is a little warm I just swat at it with my gloved hand thinking it was a piece of slag. Buzz buzz weld a little more still feel the heat. I dont want to lift up the hood because I'm making good progress and keeping heat in it. About 3-4 times now this is really hot and burning, I flip the hood up and was already swatting at the heat between my legs. OH crap my shirt is on fire. I had crouched so in the car that the shirt had made like a shelf across my legs and was catching all the slag and hot pieces popping off. Well was catching them until it burned off all the way up to the lower button before I decided to lift the hood and see what the #@$@ was going on. Part of the long sleve shirt thing came from a day before laying a sweaty arm across some steel grounded with welder. I grabbed the stinger to "give it a quick tack". Do you know the screw in the stinger is live? Also you dont have to be holding it to make it weld. It gets pretty exctin that way though, not recomended at all.
  15. The ohm rating sometimes gets confusing to me. The same resistor seems sometimes is called 330 or 33K ohm or something like that. My question is I may have a couple of these left over from another project. Would they work? How many do I need? Soldered inline or all at same point.
  16. Iwas going to say, them look dang near new. Being you got access to it: old tooth brush and some brake kleen and rags. Spray them out, brush them up with tooth brush put a little of the backing plate grease on back of shooes if you got it and swap out the pads. Like was previously stated they dont wear even. I would have to check the book but I think 3mm is change point. One thing of note though. I put new pads on mine and when with the next step up from OEM. I think sintered, now the rear when I apply is makes sor of a clicking or whurring noise. I have had it apart 3 times, nothing loose or miss alighned. Best deduction the folks on here info I got was normal due to the different compound of pads.
  17. Thanks
  18. Link @ top of page.
  19. Ah yea I had totaly forgot about using something on there to heatsink. ThanksNo forcepts but I have a small pair of needle nose vise grips and some thin alum strips of scrap.
  20. 10-4 on the fuel filter. A couple of bucks to rule it out and chances are it could use one anyways. I was out maessing around one time years ago, still had mechanical fuel pumps. Dang truck quit, was fuel pump. We rigged up a line to the fule tank to presurize it and blew in tank to force fuel to carb. Once it was rolling down the road we just pointed the end into the wind. Self presurized.
  21. Amen on the cost effectivness. Now if we could find a mi-spec for the resistor and contract someone to make them, I be we could get the price up to $30-40 bucks. JK
  22. OK my diodes and resistors showed up today, lights were yesterday. I am REALLY going to try to remember to take some pics and document this mod and then if its worth it I may write it up. Kind of depends on how I feel about it when I'm done I guess. I do have a question on making up the wires with the resistors/diodes. The wires to them are a tad long I think, both are about 3.5" long. I can trim them up some cant I? Like make over all length around 2" and solder everything up? The "magic" is all in the round barrell looking thing aint it? Oh and my diodes I ohm'd out to figure out flow/direction. I had to have the red lead on the side without the silver stripe, so I'm guessing the power in side needs to be the same? Power in away from stripe, power out to light on stripe side.
  23. I alos lean towards the fuel delivery being the issue from what you have discribed.
  24. I tried a little experementation when I put LED bulbs in several months back.What I tried didnt work, but with this mod it gives me an idea. Instead of opeing up your flasher unit and getting in there and soldering stuff and maybe ruining the flasher. What if you simply took that plug out of your connector, made a jumper wire that had your resistors in it and put the other end of your jumper into the connector.
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