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Sounds like a call for dielectric grease, or maybe its sea foam I get confused.

Your gonna like the backrest on long trips friend. I think youll like the highway pegs too. Same ones I have. I like that they are wider and you can actually rest your foor on them. If they have the same arms as mine boy can you ever adjust them to fit your needs. I have mine adjusted to where I can rest my heel on the floorboards, or prop my foot on the peg. Yet not sticking way out so as to trip someone in a parking lot. lol

A little heat on the shifter and small increments would be my suggestion.

Also dealing with national park bureau. No way this is going to get as attention as Sandy. With them giving millions in emergency money for that, well may not be enough to go around.

Thats why I moved here to Fla. Had enough of that cold stuff when I lived in Oklahoma.

Lol yea your probably right. I have seen some LEDs that say something about parade and show vehicles too.

WE had a pretty spirted discussion over on the Kawaski board about this subject a couple years ago. I wondered the same thing ICE, water wetter and the like. They are suposed to transfer the heat better and faster. Then it was brought up that the bikes are designed to run @ X temp and thats where the thermostat is going to open, wether it takes say 5 min or 25 min to get to that temp. OK makes sense. Thats where the ECU and everything is set to run emisions etc blah blah. SO I dont know if its worth $20. I forget but there were a couple of those additives that did not play well with standard anti-freez as mentioned. And from what I have read here getting a "complet and total flush" is quit the operation on the RSV motor. If I remember right the water wetter is completly comaptable with all anti-freez so I may add some when I do a flush.

Maybe thats the deal with this fellows HD. The lens is a deeper smoke or something. I know unless your looking for it you cant hardly see it. He may still be with incadesent bulbs. But man these tuner cars around here looks like they used black paint on the lenses. Wonder what happens when you plant the bumper of your truck into thier trunk because you couldnt see thier tail lights?

Yea man the CCT would be in my garage if the $$ was a little different at the time I bought. The wife and loved it when we got to ride one Dec 2011. The ANiv one I got an e-mail about the otherday, funny thing is it looks just about like my 09 RSV. The money for the aniv edition is stupid high to me, more than a Ness custom. I kind of fell for the apple green one with black flames

Depending on where they start from you can still make the dragon, but if you dont want to double back the same roads it makes it challenging. Would hav to go all the way around the other side of the park.

I really dont care for the smoked lenses. Makes lights hard to see, therfore makes me hard to see. Might be why you dont see alot of them on bikes. I followed a car home the other day and I barley could see the brake lights. Check J&P cycles I think I saw some in thier store last time I was in there, but its been awhile.

Summer time mostly my Scorpion exo 100 shorty. If I'm on a trip I use the Bell Mag8 as the headset is rigged up on this one.

Nope, these are inline and I belive have an internal pressure regulator of some sort.

Yea its like they were running short on paper or something. You know I think a bunch of the realy orginal to the bike are the same. Before buying one verify a good one a swap it into positions.

I suck at wiring diagrams. So me being able to look at all them lines arghhh. But I would shoot for the flasher unit. You may have to build a couple of jumper wires but you should be able to borrow one out of the cage and see if the circuit works. If you can read a wiring diagram its in the shop manual.

OK so being board I'm surfing the web. I go over the Victory site (I guy can dream right) So they unveiled a 15th aniv edition Cross Country tour. http://cdn.polarisindustries.com/polaris/vic/2013/images/receptors/15th-anniversary/large/15th_crs_cty_tour_p11.jpg Looks kind of simular to the one sitting in my garage. LOL

Funny thing. The Vulcan 900 was the first bike I ever owned that had a bat wing handlebar mounted fairing. Before that they were all frame mounted. I had a KZ650 witha windjammer and after that a GS1000 witha Pacifica. Absoulutly nobody that I can find makes fairings like these anymore. Ofcourse back then we had to pretty much "build" our own touring bikes.

SilverT your exactly right. But some feel they have to put their "stamp" on it. A couple times we got prior enlisted guys that had got their commishon. Those guys were usualy better about that. Randy had that happen a few times too. The more things change the more they stay the same. LOL

Ah yes my friend. But after decades in the military and every 2-3 years a "new" 2nd Lt comming in and wanting to change the way everything has been done, just because he is "in charge" you need to remember. There are somethings that have been done a certian way for a lengthy time because it just works. I get what your saying though, it dont hurt to ask questions as to "why" it being done the way it is.

I could see the V-rod motor in a touring bike. I dont think they would use an existing name though. Geez who knows they may even add some updating to the styling. I dont think it would be Victory Vison type updating but maybe drop the square ole bags they have had for forty years or so. Widen them up or something. I am kind of lost on HD. To me the Heritage looks exactly like the Road King depending on which bags. Street glide looks like an electra sans trunk. Is the Road glide the one with frame mounted faring and 2 headlights? Kawasaki discontinued the voyager for a few years and came back with a new touring bike with the same name. I have read a few posts of guys that think the old 6cyl Voyager was a much better bike. lol Maybe there is a shortage in the name the new bike dept in Japan.

Awsome find there SilverT. That was discussed back when I was doing mine, but to my knowledge it would have had to been built into the circuit. Now someone done did that. Jeff I think the "color" scetch is the one modified for the second gen. or else I'll have to see if I can find the modified directions. (you know looking at this I needed a 330 ohm resistor then too. Dang that means I could have saved atleast one trip to RS. They got to be here somewhere) This should be a diagram to help you wire up your passing lights.

We ran across something simular on a Dodge race car I had with electronic ignition. First I changed the plug wires, because in past experiences they had been culprets. It helped some. It ended up being in the pickup wheel and wiring. Just some experience I had and maybe someplace to look. It wouldnt take alot of moisture either after I changed the wires. So I guess they were bad enough.

The whole printing and outdated info thing is why alot of schools have went to using I-pads or tablets or some sort of downloadable research/study material. Check and see if thats an option. My daughter-inlaw is studing for her masters and I know she had a ton of books after the first go that simply were not worth anything "used" because they changed materials.

Not yet. I'm afraid to vote for fear it will crap out tomorrow. I did however just replace the fuel filter with one from autozone G4164 type.

Dont think that was my kit exactly but it looked very simular. If converting though you need to look at Bi-xenon bulb. The standard kits use the HID for low beam and a bulb like you have (hologen) for high. THe BI-xenon uses a HID bulb and a shutter to "block" part of the light for the different beams. Shop around but that looked to be a decent price, a little more than what I payed off e-bay. Make sure they are slim ballest and come with all the wiring etc. Thats one of the gimicks a realy kit is extra, this wire is extra etc. This kit looks pretty complete although I see no realy harness included. 600k seems to be the popular color. The HID system has a over/under voltage protection system built into it. So what happens is you turn key on light comes on, thumb starter voltage drops below minimum for bulb it shuts off. Bike starts volts back up, light back on. Keep in mind that everytime the light starts this thing has to fire thru the electronics and someone discribed it to me on the bulb side as "starting like an arch welder". So not good to start 2 or 3 times everytime you start bike. So a group of folks on here recomend putting an on/off switch in your realy start system so you can start the bike then fire the headlight. I'll try to look up the info and post you a link. It involved some LED's and resistors and soldering skills. I am eletricly challenged (you can read some of my problems in the last couple days on here) I accomplished it with no problems. You say you have driving lights installed. While you have the faring split check out how they are wired. If it was infact dealer installed it probably has a glass tube type fuse burried somewhere inside the fairing on the left side as your sitting on bike. If you turn on lights and hit high beam and passing lights go out it is probably wired by dealer. It is drawing its power across the ignition switch. So you should install this circuit on a realy. You can pretty much use all the existing wiring and just add a couple pieces. Here is a link to a discussion on HID lights etc. I have some pics on relays and mounting of the ballest in the post also to help you out. Any question ask away, lots of us have this mod. Flyinfools warning light plans. Oh and here is a pic of my OEM style fuse when I tried to look at it before installing a relay.