djh3

You could lower the front forks in the triple tree also to lower. But if your happy with it, thats who you need to please.

Stop drilling should take care of it progressing. Of course if you plated it (the bottom) it may take the stress out of the bottom having to support all the weight.

Looks like you got a handle on it. You got lights in the shop there? Go ride, work on it after the sun goes down if good weather has been limited.

If in fact that pump has bit the dust I would certainly look at a new replacement pump. Just need to make sure it will work at that angle. Some will not work lying on side. I would give that one a bleed. I think near the ram there is a rubber plug. Pop it out and there should be fluid almost comming out of jack body if I'm not mistaken. If its not quite there you can use some ATF to top it off if you dont have any jack oil.

They buy because they have drank the HD (hundred dollar) cool aid. Marketing has convinced people that its the best yada yada and they see the stuff everywhere. HD t-shirts, sunglasses, dog clothes for cripes sake!!! And people PAY THEM tho advertise for them.

10-4 on the sitting and fluids. Our rule of thumb on the aircraft I worked on was if it had sat for more than 8hr, wipe it off fire the hydros up and cycle several times then check with pressure on it and then static.

I had posted somewhere else on this fourm about help with the cords wipping and pulling. I use the clip for ID badges. They are like less than .50c. http://ts3.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.4581313762427562&pid=15.1

To me the question would be why are you removing everything? If your upgrading the radio part of it I think thats been done. But how do you fit all that stuf in as good as yami did? My other thought was if you gut the radio/comm system just go back with blue tooth enabled equipment. Then you just get the BT stuff for helmet and no more cords.

I have also read of guys using auto trans fluid. Seems to me that would be about the same as the jack oil. I have used it for that before. Hmm so now I gets to thinking they are making a multi vis low weight oils like a 5w15 I woulder how that would work. Could you use a syn oil?

There is a special tool as if you try to put it in to fast it gets a buble and air locked. Most guys I know that have done it use a syringe. If you dont have on around and you have a trctor supply they have them over in the animal health care section. That way you can measure it out too. I was just reading a couple other posts on this service. Some suggest the 5w oil I think it was and some suggeted 10w and as high as 15w oil. We are not talking standard motor oil right? It needs to be fork oil correct?

I understand there will be lots of opertunities to inves in Cypress banks soon. I think a big bunch of us are in a very simular place Dan. I thought because I had a military retirement I would be "set" after I retired from the USAF. HA HA was I ever sold a load of ... stuff. With my curretn job I'm lucky to make bills, and I aint got alot neiter. Good thing life expectancy is like 90+ now. I'll need it just to keep up. Dan if your up to reading some and are interested I have read some books by Dave Ramsey and he hits some very good advice.

Whats that a pic of? A salt mine?

Dan shes liking the pillow top seat huh. Maybe the extra leg room of the 2nd gen.

Goggle up a ride plan and then use something like expedia to check you hotel costs. If rooms are booked to capacity I would guess they would be high. But what is high to you might be OK with someone else.

Patience and a well rounded pleeding vocabulary worked for me. More the vocabulary than the other part. It can be a tricky deal. Especially if you let the front drive shaft coupler fall down. There is an access hole to put a probe/screwdriver in to hel hold it up. It just sort of snaps in, but between the wiggling of the front u-joint and the movement of the shaft it can make you wonder if its worth it.

Some pics would be very helpful. If the mounts are on metal, I would say yes you can grind? Cut them off with a dremel tool or angle grinder if you have a way to build new ones. The dremel would be a more precise way to do it and maybe not bugger up the mount as bad. Fiberglass would be flamable I supose if exposed to heat long enough. I would say if you had a hose or coffee can of water handy you would be OK. Grind a little, douse spot with a little water if you think its to hot. I'm sure it will smoke pretty good before it bursts into flames.

I wonder on thier "would buy again" stats, Hd basicly makes like 3 styles of bikes, all big and mostly geared towards touring with exception to maybe the sporty and the Dyna style bikes. BMW simular deal either an RT or dual sport of which if you like one your probably not changing to something else. Ymaha and Kawasaki for the most part have ummm given up on the tourning folks for the most part. They have sunk tons of money into the sport bikes. So my guess would be the majority of Kawi and Yamaha owners ar sport bike owners. From there I ask if you rode one of them things for 2-4yr would you buy another one?

I rode over 200 miles yesterday. It was a high of about 64 or something in Orlando. It was sort of nice actually. Amazing how cold mid 60's are at 70 mph.

I did mine at tire change last summer with about 10K on it. They didnt look to terrable, a couple bone dry and the rest were thankful I put grease on them as they were well on the way to dry. cleaned off with some scotch brite and emory cloth and lubed reinstalled.

2nd gen dont have an air pump. Although that might be something to look at the rear shock to see if there is leakage. A little research shows NADA average is 5275, that was taking the low price and the high and averaging out. Kelly Blue book shows 5380 in excellent condition and a trade in value of.........3700 !!!!! What the heck???

The anit-seize I have is a permatex brand. Looks to be alum based as it is silver. Anyways we used the coper-slip stuff in the race shop too. Nuts bolts and things not used in a heat environment (suspension parts etc) got the copper stuff, hot things like header bolts, clamps, plugs got the alum looking stuff. I use it on my plugs as I know thats what its made for. I wonder if the anit-siez products out there are made like the thread lockers, sort of an agreement that a blue lock tight compound is the same no matter who makes it and a red is red etc.

Brake fluid is suposed to be a good "break free" type fluid also. I'm kind of partial to liquid wrench or a PB blaster. I have a friend who works in a salvage yard and he says thats what the use out in the yard is the brake fluid. Good luck.

So far none of the repair kits I have seen have the end thats missing. Its missing the end you put into the pull side. I'll contact the gal that fixes my work uniforms.

I picked up a Fieldsheer textile jacket from a fellow. The zipper end at bottom where you put it together is gone. So I need to replace the zipper. I tried looking up to buy one but it dont look like I can find one. Anybody ever replaced one of these? The large zipper teeth measure about 1/4" and th zipper is 20" long.

The Kawai Vaquero is around 17K if you want the street glide look with no trunk. I think a Cross Country Vic comes in pretty close to that also. I saw one of the F6's the other day while looking for some cleaner. not bad looking, but if a decent height windscreen is $400 and a backrest another 400 phew. Thats alot of ice cream.