djh3

Grr I hate scotch loks. But sometimes ya just have to use them. I bought some LED marker lights. They had the clear lenses but show red for the rears and amber for up front. I took the OEM reflectors off (front and rear) and mount the lights. I built a couple of brackets for the very back by the bags. Made circuits so lights are on for run and also flash for turns.

If times not a huge critical thing we could relay it up to him brake pad. I'm in Sebring, could meet you say around cleweston or lake placid then get to him in a couple days scheduling permited.

Problem with just replacing the flasher on the 2nd gen anyways is you loose the auto cancel feature. I tried to work around it but didnt have mush luck. There was a write up floating around a guy modified the flasher unit on his 650 yamaha which has the same basic layout for auto cancel I guess. I tried the LED in the front an rear OEM sockets but didnt care for them in the front, they just didnt look bright enough compaired to the incandesent bulbs. So I built some add on LED signal and running lights. Hard to actually see where lights are when taking the pic as the reflective stuff shows up. But they are in center lower on rear.

I'd be up for knowing where and what wires to move. I ocasionaly have the issue of the ticking.

I would have to say +1 atleast on the HID. I've got a 2nd gen but still the lighting of the HID is superb to the 85/100w bulb I was running. There is several guys who have put the HID in the 1st gens. There is some jumpers or something that have to be done to keep a warning light or something off. You can find motorcycle kits on e-bay from $30 up. When looking make sure the kit comes with bulb, wiring harness with relay and the ballest. Plug an play is what your looking for. Plug in your headlight number 9006 or whatever and conversion. 600k is about the best I think. Has slight blueish tint but not blue like sky. Check some posts youll see what most are running. I just looked and some kits are under $20.

I remember working in a garage back in the late 70"s. Alot of manufactures recomended only changing the filter every other oil change. I think most oil changes were in the 3500 range back then. But it baffled me why change 4 qt of dirty oil out and leave a dirty quart in plus a filter that was dirty? Made no sense. We had a customer that came insiting the every other change deal. One day he came in wanted only the oil changed, I asked him so you shower with socks on too? After that I guess it made sense to him to just change it all out and get fresh. If anything changing the filter inbetween and adding a quart makes better sense. I have done that before if I had mostly highway miles and was short on cash. On this bike I started with Mobil 1 V-twin oil 20w50. But at $10 qt and only 4500 miles between changes (by the manual) I switched to the Rotella T6. Something like $21 gal vs $40

A couple things. Unless a center stand has been added I dont belive the 99-2013 RSV have a center stand. Most times anytime a bike is on a side or centerstand there is a "neutral safety switch" If the bike is on running, and stand is down if you put in gear it shuts the bike off. This stops anyone from riding off with the sidestand down. Just a shot here as to this being your issue. Put the stand up and drop in gear see if it still dies.

I think knowing what I do now, if replacing I think I'd go the chatterbox or senna route. I made connectors so I can plug ear buds in on the bike. Next step would be a way to bluetooth the music from the bike to your senna

Yea I think 10" to short for my freferance also. I think when I measured up one time I was looking at somewhere around 15.

WOW with the way liabilty and litagation things ae I'm suprised they even let you in the back of the shop. Its allways nice to learna little bit about what your riding aint it? Did you lube the drive pins while you had it apart?

Which cord do you need exactly. The one from the bike connection to the part at the helmet?

A second less expensive option is to use a simple "P" clamp from the hardware store. 2 clamps run under $3, once bags are back on you cant tell the difference. For the front clamp on mine I simply used a stainless steel worm type hose clamp.

Welcome aboard. I sent some links in the other thread you had listed.

Theres been few posts on guys adding fairings. I would for least expense and hassle of finding brackets etc look towards Memphis shades. If he wants more of a full on faring try reckless motorcycle farings. Mutazu makes some nice looking pieces. These hardstreet look interesting. I would stay away from Viking. I have not heard good things about them. Thin materials and flimsy lock systems. I thought there was a company called Tsukayu or something like that but I cant find my link right now. Mutazu has a very nice selection of styles and sizes, bags, trunks if you wish and even have a faring. (found link for tsukayu)

Bob you just wake up or what. Aint seen ya around in awhile.

Looks as though it is a cam lock or duz fastener. But without seeing the other receptical side its hard to tell.

I was there in 2010. Most of the freeway stuff was done where I had to go. I say MOST. But it still took over an hour I think to go from one side of Huston to I 10 heading to Lousiana. That place, well all major cities like that are a PIA. If it wouldnt have been for the GPS I was using having lane assist I'm pretty sure I would have been going around in circles for awhile.

I have 2 covers also. One I use when bike is at airport while I am out of town. The other is a light weight cover sort of a "dust" cover so to speak. It isnt really water proof but will keep the dew off. Usually that is the one I use while travleing. Packs pretty small. Smaller than what my tourmaster jacket will roll up. The other is a Nelson Rigg. I gave around $35-40 for it and its a nice heavy cover.

I think a momentary flash like up to 6 then steady on is OK in rear. But a continous blink is probably a no no.

Like the ohter ones cat didnt eat it or anything right? That would be a whole nother deal. LOL One way a guy helped his heat out on his voyager was he installed a bilge fan. He got the idea from the brake blowers used in NASCAR to cool brakes. They come in all sizes and cfm.

Hmm yea the "traffic" cable has a aprox 1"x3" black box sort of thing on it, but it hasne caused me any grief. I use velcro cable ties and wrap the cable and excess around the bars out of the way. I think they also make a regular cable without the traffic update. Either way I dont think your loosing much without the traffic update. I so far havent had it save me anything. But I know if the battery is low and I plug into the PC at home with mini usb it will usually tell me that to chagre faster use the car plug. I wouldnt think the mini usb would be the prefered way.

Let us know how that "potato cooker" is in the summer time in Texas. Most of the guys I have talked to here in Fl say they have alot of heat of them things. Congrats though, it was one of my finalists also.

ragtop-free version. When you "save as" you select what format. You can also save directly to your GPS device. tim-once in awhile its a little hard to see. There is a brightness you can adjust. Last trip I took in the cage I had some portion of the day I had a hard time seeing it also.

Nope it creates GPX files that go straight into the Garmin. Atleast mine it does.

You aint lie'n there brother. I'm not sure a rocket scientist could make that thing work. I use a free progam called TYRE. Will plot your course on goggle maps also so you can see your route. Works well.