djh3

Fla use to have a vehicle inspection back in the 70's. I was a mechanic in a garage back then. When the put it in the law 1/2 or better of the gas stations that did bay work installed the equipment to do inspections. Very minamal at first. Light check, wipers glass etc. By the time it was all done in the late 80's I guess (I was stationed out of state) they had headlight alignment machines, brake skid pad things emissions for some vehicles. Then all of a sudden boom, no more required state inspection. I had heard the reason they started was if they did inspections the Fed would match road construction dollars. I have to figure that dried up and the state in turn said the heck with it. A headlight, insurance, wiper glass check wouldnt bother me. Might get some of these junkers off the road. Oh wait we did that with cash for clunkers didnt we??

Yes, its just a standard H-4 55w/60. There is a brighter bulb you can put in for about the sam money. Wagner BP 1210 I think its rated @ 80w/100. I got mine at the local NAPA.

I like my streets and maps to help plan the stops and total driving time. TYRE does not have that yet. They are allways updating and improving so maybe in the future. Works off Goggle maps so if you can work them your in. Oh and on the clamp part of you mount you need, be sure to shop around as prices vary widely. Mine is 3/4" clamp with ball and the arm must be about 3" long.

Barry I was in a simular fix last year. My OEM (I guess) Dunlap E-3 were getting worn out. If it got wet the rear was locking when trying to stop. They were very good tires and I think they did well. I think I had about 10k on the bike when I changed them. I dont know what the previous owner did on tire pressures so the first 7400 miles are a mystery. I studied tread paterns as I didnt think I wanted one that had all rubber in the center 1-1.5" like the E-3. They sort of look like a sport bike tire and to me in the rain no place for rain to go. I read some HD fourms about the Michelin Commander II. I found them on sale at Jake Wilson for $258 to the door. I put the 130 on the front thinking it might help me on some slow speed stuff, but I dont really notice any difference at all. I had it on a 2200 mile highway trip last summer, combo of interstate, back highways etc and no pulling or wandering of any sort. In Oct the wife and I loaded up and went to NC for a week. Something like 1100+ miles 2 up in mountians of NC everything A OK. Rain they seem better than the E-3 ever was, but I have to take into accout mine had 7k on them when I got it.

Yup just read that story as matter of fact. I dunno if I could do that man. But I am going to attempt over 700 miles in a day in Oct. Dont know if I can get an award for it but.... Actually I am a member of the long distance riders, while not as die hard long distance as the IB guys the range starts at like 600 miles in a day I think. On a bike like the Vision I would think it is very do-able. I am hoping the 700+ on the RSV will be atainable also.

Hmmm neat to say the least. But here is my 2 concerns. 1- Cost of the visor should you need to replace it with the ability to show all the info. 2- With all that stuff on my visor I cant see what I really need to be paying attention to, the road.

I think my RSV was like $90 or so in May. I could be wrong but thats what I remember. I am thankful the registrations are spread out. My truck (3/4 ton) is in Dec, the wifes car is in her name first so it goes off her Bday in Jan and then bike is on mine in May. I think my beater truck is over $125 her car an SUv is around 80-90 and everything except the bike is 2002 or older. Could be worse, my buddy is in Nc and not only do you pay to register you pay a property (I call it poverty) tax on vehicles. Like was said all states get their money just in different ways.

I find mapsource and base camp to be way confusing and hard to use. But I learned route planning on Microsoft streets and trips and the 2 are nothing alike. I am using TYRE. A free program that will utilize Google maps and has drag and drop rerouting. Also this is a handy link to have http://forums.gpsreview.net/ On the mount, no I dont think I would have expected the handlebar part. That piece is fairly inexpensive, I thinks under $20 if you search around.

The car topper route to me seems to be the best bang for buck. I would go with the 12" tires I think because they roll slower than the 8" and les wear on bearings. As far as the opening of the topper, look into maybe a creative way to extend your hold opens. Maybe a simple piece of alum and a couple wing nut/bolt combos.

At this point if going to put money away I think the Roth IRA is probably best if I remember right. My military retirement dont pay squat either. So when I got out I had to find something else. Happy with what I got but we lost the other halfs income several years back and its very hard to stay ahead of the curve.

Kirby made mine for me. Although I like the ingenous idea of the sockets.

I have one on the wifes 02 Durango thats been on for over 2yr. Its something to do with the fuel vapor return garbage. A couple things it says can be bad, one is a $20 electric valve (once you install its yours) and the other is vacume hoses "could" be bad and leaking between the tank and the valve and charcoal canester. So now you know why we just drive it. No way I'm going to change a $20 part to find out its $20 more in vacume line and 3 days of work to replace them.

I'll have to look up but a fellow member here had some billet alum round spacers pre made I bought to replace the handlebars. But one of the posts here did the same thing. Drill/tap where the bars use to be and round stock to support faring. Without the support there the faring has to much movement on bumps. I'm 5'6" and the risers also took the tight feeling on long trips out of the shoulders.

OK so I recognize her as a Dr on Body of proof with Dana Delany another nice looking gal.

Simular to one I bought last year. Min eonly does running lights and brake, and alos only has half as many LED's in it. Thats nice unit and made in USA I think. I bought some marker lights from them and made my reflectors on the forks and baddlebags into run/turn signals. Then added 2 to rear by the bags as additional turn signals.

Sleeperhawk read my post again. I try to refrain from using like everyone, all the time and never. They are very indefinate. What I was trying to get across is some of our elderly folks here in Fla may have a hard time passing a skills test. Heck some of the others woul too I supose. How often where you live do you have someone make the local 7-11 or bufett a "drive in" style place because they forgot gas on right brake on left??

Seems a bit over do-ish if you ask me. But they are getting thier money. So much for "free health care" and the lot in Canada. I think its good to have folks "prove" so to speak of thier motor vehicle skills. Bikes are way different than cars. I would be for anyone over say 60 to have to complete a writen test and a driving skills every 4yr or so too. Some of our older folks here scare the heck out of me.

OK so the spark plug buzz in the intercom came back again. Have not had it in a long time, but just showed back up yesterday on a ride. So I guess I'll pull the gas tank and see what I can do. But which wires do I seperate from what and how? Should I use some zip ties and fuel line or something and make spacers to keep apart? Wife also complained about not being able to hear stereo very well or intercom so kind of wondering what the heck is going on.

I run Dyna Beads in my tires, thus no ride on. I carry a plug kit with the sticky stringy things, and to inflate tire if need be I have one of those C02 inflater things with the little bottles.

They do top off. But they also go by how much stock is on hand. So say they normaly carry 1000 gal of said fuel. they stick tank on Tue for a Thur delivery. If they show they have say 800 gal they may put off ordering a "top off" of the fuel and wait another week to sell 200 gal and make it worth the while.

Seems really odd that a rubber bushing bolt would be in a "shear" application. I would suspect maybe the bolt had a flaw in it. Just a guess.

But its a "dry heat". Just like my slow cooker I do ribs on. Hot is hot man, once its around 90 I dont think it much matters, you start leaking.

The Fontana Dam was also in the movie the fugitive. We were up that way last Oct. If you like the turning leaves your going to like it. Take a trip over to Andrews by way of some little ole switch back something or other from Franklin way. I forget the name/number now but it was great. Well atleat untill the dumkoff in the expensive Range Rover that cant drive in the mountians keept spiking the brakes and mine overheated and went OUT. Carnage was avoided and we continued after a colling off period.

Steve to bad man. So the bolt is chrome or something I'm guessing? Possibly is it used somewhere else on the bike that is not visable and you could swap it for plain jane replacement. I too have heard the clink-dink thing and hoped it was a piece of FOD off the road.

I have a ride planned this summer on aug last week around the 26th. Going from Fla to up by Toronto and then home. Going thru PA, Ny and into canada on the east side around the lake. I'm hoping we dont cook. Traveled last summer up to Cincinati and it wa blazing hot, like over 100.