djh3

Dont have a half helmet I have the intercom on. But my 3/4 does. I used the J&M lower end ones and they work. Thats about all I can say about them. Seems to be alot of "swosh" and background noise. Intercom has to be around 14-16 to hear wife and then you just increase the BG noise. Radio seems to need bass in speakers. I bought mic cut out inline switches to help with BG noise. If to do it again I think I would definatly think about investing more in them. HS-8154-b is what I have I think.

I think I have changed mine once. I got bike with 7400mi and now is 13k something. It was looking like you could tell where the plug was making a line. Si changed it, no leaks though. Use a torque wrench if you have it, overtightening is not good. I also run the slightly longer filter from purolator.

The scare has calmed. Nothing has been in the news lately to provoke the doomsdayers. Govt has had other things to flap thier jaws about to the press. You know elections are only 4 months or so away so need to get thier opnions out to the press. Same kinda crap back during the aleged "gas shortage" years. Everyone got spun up and amazingly it happened. Then it all straghtened out. Although it cast much much more for it. I'm suprised the EPA lets them still make bullits with lead.

I think I went 7/8". Also not 100% sure but I dont think the top part of the tripple tree has to come off, just the pinch bolts loosened. Its a project to be sure.

Steve rode home from the Sarasota airport yesterday in some ppuring azz rain like we have had lateley. Not much traffic luckley. Found myself running 55-60 in 4th and didnt even know it. I think the ratio is OK with me. I know some change due to pulling a trailer. I gues initialy I miss read the OP question . oops.I read lower and ratio and didnt realize he was asking about droppping RPM not ratio.

If I'm not mistaken thats what the V-max swap is. I am totaly guessing here but it seems it is easier to swap the entire rearend assy then to take one apart and swap just the ring and pinion.

My 09 if it has sit say overnight yup got to choke it. Maybe not long but it needs that little extra shot of go jusce to start.

Mine has looked a bit tweaked also since adding the risers and lowering forks which I did at the same time. To me it looks like the faring is a bit asquew. I wrote it off to the handelbars giving a different perspective.

My son has a Scion 05. Ever since it was new if car sat for like a week or more flat battery. Would jump off but if it sat again would go flat. Dealer checked it out twice on warrenty and found nothing but dead batt. So twice they replaced the OEM battery. 3rd time it went bad son replaced with good quality Autozone battery. Worked fairly well but still like 3 wk would be dead. Alternator died and I replaced that and figured maybe we were rid of charging problems. NOPE still say thing. Now the seat belt thing does make sense, its probably charged with key off and is hung "on".

I talked with probably 5 people this last week, a couple in Daytona and some @ Plant City bike night. The scuddlebut they heard was Michelin was in the works to make the OEM size front tire. I guess you could drop them a note and see if its true. Can someone refresh my memory on the load rating on the tires? I found a chart but generaly speaking bigger (higher) is better say a 74 vs 71. But do you figure it bu bike weight plus the passengers plus gear and divide by 2 for the axles?

Anyone have experience with the Pierreli RT 66 on these or simular sized bikes? I ran them on my 900 Vulcan and got very goor performance and wear out of them. Without checking the archives I think 10k or better. but that bike was 300# or so lees that these are. Any Shinko guys?

Fla use to have a vehicle inspection back in the 70's. I was a mechanic in a garage back then. When the put it in the law 1/2 or better of the gas stations that did bay work installed the equipment to do inspections. Very minamal at first. Light check, wipers glass etc. By the time it was all done in the late 80's I guess (I was stationed out of state) they had headlight alignment machines, brake skid pad things emissions for some vehicles. Then all of a sudden boom, no more required state inspection. I had heard the reason they started was if they did inspections the Fed would match road construction dollars. I have to figure that dried up and the state in turn said the heck with it. A headlight, insurance, wiper glass check wouldnt bother me. Might get some of these junkers off the road. Oh wait we did that with cash for clunkers didnt we??

Yes, its just a standard H-4 55w/60. There is a brighter bulb you can put in for about the sam money. Wagner BP 1210 I think its rated @ 80w/100. I got mine at the local NAPA.

I like my streets and maps to help plan the stops and total driving time. TYRE does not have that yet. They are allways updating and improving so maybe in the future. Works off Goggle maps so if you can work them your in. Oh and on the clamp part of you mount you need, be sure to shop around as prices vary widely. Mine is 3/4" clamp with ball and the arm must be about 3" long.

Barry I was in a simular fix last year. My OEM (I guess) Dunlap E-3 were getting worn out. If it got wet the rear was locking when trying to stop. They were very good tires and I think they did well. I think I had about 10k on the bike when I changed them. I dont know what the previous owner did on tire pressures so the first 7400 miles are a mystery. I studied tread paterns as I didnt think I wanted one that had all rubber in the center 1-1.5" like the E-3. They sort of look like a sport bike tire and to me in the rain no place for rain to go. I read some HD fourms about the Michelin Commander II. I found them on sale at Jake Wilson for $258 to the door. I put the 130 on the front thinking it might help me on some slow speed stuff, but I dont really notice any difference at all. I had it on a 2200 mile highway trip last summer, combo of interstate, back highways etc and no pulling or wandering of any sort. In Oct the wife and I loaded up and went to NC for a week. Something like 1100+ miles 2 up in mountians of NC everything A OK. Rain they seem better than the E-3 ever was, but I have to take into accout mine had 7k on them when I got it.

Yup just read that story as matter of fact. I dunno if I could do that man. But I am going to attempt over 700 miles in a day in Oct. Dont know if I can get an award for it but.... Actually I am a member of the long distance riders, while not as die hard long distance as the IB guys the range starts at like 600 miles in a day I think. On a bike like the Vision I would think it is very do-able. I am hoping the 700+ on the RSV will be atainable also.

Hmmm neat to say the least. But here is my 2 concerns. 1- Cost of the visor should you need to replace it with the ability to show all the info. 2- With all that stuff on my visor I cant see what I really need to be paying attention to, the road.

I think my RSV was like $90 or so in May. I could be wrong but thats what I remember. I am thankful the registrations are spread out. My truck (3/4 ton) is in Dec, the wifes car is in her name first so it goes off her Bday in Jan and then bike is on mine in May. I think my beater truck is over $125 her car an SUv is around 80-90 and everything except the bike is 2002 or older. Could be worse, my buddy is in Nc and not only do you pay to register you pay a property (I call it poverty) tax on vehicles. Like was said all states get their money just in different ways.

I find mapsource and base camp to be way confusing and hard to use. But I learned route planning on Microsoft streets and trips and the 2 are nothing alike. I am using TYRE. A free program that will utilize Google maps and has drag and drop rerouting. Also this is a handy link to have http://forums.gpsreview.net/ On the mount, no I dont think I would have expected the handlebar part. That piece is fairly inexpensive, I thinks under $20 if you search around.

The car topper route to me seems to be the best bang for buck. I would go with the 12" tires I think because they roll slower than the 8" and les wear on bearings. As far as the opening of the topper, look into maybe a creative way to extend your hold opens. Maybe a simple piece of alum and a couple wing nut/bolt combos.

At this point if going to put money away I think the Roth IRA is probably best if I remember right. My military retirement dont pay squat either. So when I got out I had to find something else. Happy with what I got but we lost the other halfs income several years back and its very hard to stay ahead of the curve.

Kirby made mine for me. Although I like the ingenous idea of the sockets.

I have one on the wifes 02 Durango thats been on for over 2yr. Its something to do with the fuel vapor return garbage. A couple things it says can be bad, one is a $20 electric valve (once you install its yours) and the other is vacume hoses "could" be bad and leaking between the tank and the valve and charcoal canester. So now you know why we just drive it. No way I'm going to change a $20 part to find out its $20 more in vacume line and 3 days of work to replace them.

I'll have to look up but a fellow member here had some billet alum round spacers pre made I bought to replace the handlebars. But one of the posts here did the same thing. Drill/tap where the bars use to be and round stock to support faring. Without the support there the faring has to much movement on bumps. I'm 5'6" and the risers also took the tight feeling on long trips out of the shoulders.

OK so I recognize her as a Dr on Body of proof with Dana Delany another nice looking gal.