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A bottle of Monkey butt powder might be a good addition also. Even a travel sized baby powder.

I have a couple types of luggage. I have a Firstgear roll-aboard suitcase type bag. It is made just like a regualr rool-aboard suitecase but has a very wide velcro strip you put around your sissy bar. Large paocets on outside and is a nice bag. Over $140 new, a craigs list pick up for $40 I think. The bag I have used the most is a Dowco Rally Pack. Sort of a back pack looking unit, has velcro straps horizontaly to secure around something and a couple straps going the other way to secure it so it won go up or down and bounce off. It is a soft sidded unit so it can be stuffed unlike the suitcase style. Clothes stay a little nicer in the suitcase type, but I have packed my clothe in the space saver bags for years now. They are the big zip top type bags you can get from bed bath beyond and I supose Wally World has them also. The bags are two fold reasoning. 1:compresses clothes to get more in (down side is because you can pack more your carrying weight goes up as you tend to take more) 2:keeps clothes dry even if you get caught in a shower and dont get the rain cover on the travel bag. The Dowco bag also has D rings on outside to bungee things like jackets, rain gear etc to. I also prefer in that instance to use the net type bungee's. Good luck and enjoy your trip. I am leaving for Toronto Canada area on Tue.

Well you can access the plug to change the light without splitting the faring. But for your purpose you are going to do some more work like run a harness, install the relay and a few other bits, they will need to be neatly tucked away and the faring is the place to do it. Its not a big deal, I use to cringe at the thought and first couple times was scary. Now its a 10 min job. Look up in tech section faring or split faring. Take your time. If you have the passing lights they will probably present the most grief, lay and old towel or something on the fender so they dont scratch it while resting on it.

When I switched my standard bulb for the 80/100 I had in for awhile I did it totaly from behind. Man was that a PIA. The HID was easier. The 2 6mm (head) bolts that hold the driving lights can be a pain. Like you said the wiring for the lights them selves get everywhere. I did some work on mine and then when I put it back together a day or so later I had no lights, turn signals that didnt work and some other funny things. Turns out the wires were out of position enought they got caught in the steering stops and pinched and shorted out. Boy were they fun to fix.

Dang I really didnt need to hear about real long delays at boarder in NY area. We are going to cross @ peace bridge on labor day mon going from canada to us.

Prior to the hid mod I ran a 85/100 sylvainia I think it was from NAPA. Pkg was marked off road. Lol. Biggest reason I changed to HID was the more I got cold feet running the other with the high power draw. It lit up plenty good, but HID has less draw because its powered off a relay from battery and much bigger wire.

Prior to sync carbs about a month ago it was about 36-38 on a good stint. Now on my normal "work route" where I got 36 I now get 38 after syn carbs. 41 Is about tops I have got.

I was cleaning my bike the other day and bumped the CB antenna. It made a funny sort of sound besides the "boing boing" Kind of a click as it was setteling down. As I pulled on the top part of the antenna it came out of the lower black piece. YIKES So I slipped it back in as far as it would go and then pulled it up maybe 1/8" and locked down the set screws. I dont have a SWR meter anymore and way to like OHM it out or something?

Well if your up for a road trip.......... 2002 midnight w/30k $4850

Bumble Bee: OK gotcha. I thought they were almost gone and that was your discription. Yea my front had prob at least another 3k left the rear maybe 1500. but the cornering seemed odd, and like I said got really noisy as the rear tread had started a very noticable feathering. LOL almost sounded like snow tires in corners.

From my memory banks the issue with windex was the formula with amonia. Amonia is bad for the plastic type windshields. I have been using non-amonia formula window cleaner with no noticable effects. I try to just use clear water but sometimes after being in rain you just have to.

I have a vented textile Tourmaster. I'm in central Fla and anything over about 80-85 you can hardley stand it if you get stopped. My back would get really hot also, so I took the big pad out of the center of the back. Yea I know I'm loosing some protection there. I also found a good deal on a Firstgear textile jacket and picked it up. It has a quilted liner and is not a mesh type air jacket. So that one is relagated to a winter only jacket.

I'm not familiar with the RSTD headlight. Is it like the RSV? A moulded into buck type deal? Bulb is inserted from behind? I'm guessing your lens got broke. There is a post where someone took the time to pull the glass off the bucket so they could install and aftermarket HID I think it was, on a second gen. OK and presto here ya go.

On Buddy's idea maybe a resistor could be soldered to the LEd to step down the power so it didnt look like a flash bulb?

Is it Bi-xenon? What I mean is the Hi beam also on the HID? Some of the kits dont use the HID bulb for Hi beam they use a standard halogen bulb. So if thats the case it may take a moment to switch the relay. Now if its bi-xenon it uses a shutter to deflect the light a little different for each beam. This also takes a moment for the solinoid to switch and move the shield. If its bi-xenon quickly fliping from low to hi and back say to let a big rig know hes clear is not a recomended operation. It is very ruff on the unit drive it back and forth that much in short amount of time so they say. I have thought a couple of times about connecting a "flash" circuit to my driving/passing lights.

So Bert needs to schedule a trip???

So Steve, theoreticly if you wired a indicator light to a realy that was grounded thru the headlight ground and powered by the say low beam, if that filament burnt out your indicator would come on? I'm not worried about it. I figure a good samaritin will tell me if its daylight and the light is off. I mean I ask them about thier eyesight all the time. "Hey you pulled out because why? A:you coulnd see the brite headlight B; The brite red bike blended in with the scenery C: Didnt see the brite a$$ green vest?

OK on 3rd cup of coffee and had time. lol Anyways check out Tsukayu This trunk measures 22w x 18l x 13h. A bit narrower but its like 1.5" taller. Has simular shape and might fit your bill. I looked at Mutazu and dont recall anything as big there unless you go with the square "HD" style.

Bumble Bee, I have seen quite a few comments like yours and I can attest to feeling the simular way with old vs the new tires I installed. My E-3 were good but at the end of life got sort of wiggly in corners and got to howling. The new Micheliens nothing, quite and stable. Then I read a couple posts here that made sense. We are compairing old worn out to brand spanking new, not fair really. Glad to hear your likeing the RT66. I ran them on my 900 Vulcan and liked them quite well. Enough to replace them with the same tires when I wore those out. So on the Shinko looks like what 3 for 1 against? I tried reading for posts concerning the Shinkos on "large" bikes and only found a couple. None had anything bad to say about handeling quality etc. Just the milage being lower than E-3 Commander 2 Avon etc. I think the tourmaster 230 was the one I was looking at. The 777 comes in a wide white wall though dont it? Not for me but some may like them. Here is probably my top 3 places I look for tires. Motorcycle Superstore, Motorcycle tire.com (heve not bought from them as I found cheaper elsewhere) and probably cycle gear as they have a 10% military discount.

Looking at the transition from the lip/seal area to where it rounds up, I see the possibility. I'm not that kind of a body man by any means of the imagination. I do think though with the right nowledge and tools you could wizz wheel along thae said edge and install say a 1" to maybe as much a 2-2.5" strip and "lift" the round part up. However I think unless your going to do it yourself its going to be an expensive mod.

Brian, if you think the service on the Yanaha was far and few between the Indian is going to be more so. That is some of the concern with fellows I have talked to about a Victory is the dealer network. If I understand what I read months back the Indian is not going to be sold in every Victory/polaris dealer either. Kind of an "exclusive" brand so to speak. So instead of say 4 dealers for the bikes in the Tampa bay area (there are like 5 Victory dealers) there wil be one possibly 2 one north and one on south end. I'm almost scared to take mine to a dealer. The closest one is 30 miles or so and the times I have been in there I have never ever seen a RSV. So I would be afraid they wouldnt know anymore about it than I do. Next closest dealer and probably the one I would take for warrenty or needed repairs is 45 min at least. If parts dont fall of every tank of fuel you dont need a dealer to buy new ones eh?

I can understand admin operating costs, even for charities. You just dont want to see it all burned up running the "company"/charity like a rue goldburg machine (sp) Someone has to do marketing, research for disease (if thats thier concern) etc. You just want to see your dollar spent wisely like you might. I have friends that volunter for Red Cross, she runs food kitchens he does construction evaluation of structures. They went to NY for Sandy. The only hotel close was in NY City, cost was like $180 per night or something stupid like that. They were an hour from where they had to "work" but it was the closest hotel. Did the hotel give them a break because they were a 501c3? NOPE Oh and on top of that the hotel still wanted to charge another $80 a day for parking, thankfully the head parking guy just wrote it off. I tell you this as sort of a reminder that just because they are a 501c3 (non-profit) they dont get things cheaper and have cost too. Can they do a better job of spending money? You bet let one of use that has to work for every dollar we make in there for a few months.

Reflection for the headlight in daytime is th only way I know. As far as the brake light goes, its one of the reasons I added a LED light bar under the trunk. When I first got the bike the wife was following my home from somewhere here in town at night. She said "even as big as this bike is I cant hardley see that single light at night" (note: the lighting showing up on the bags is actually the reflectors)

Some say the smaller front tire makes it a bit nimbler at slow speeds. I dont really notice a big difference. I like it as well as the e-3 I had previously. I like the Michelien because of the tread patterrn in wet.

I use just spray on detail wax. Alot of folks use pledge. Dont use Rain x. Works well for cars but the bike windshield on bikes dont like it.