djh3

DOUGH didnt even think about just taking out the valve core. Hmm Yea the air pressure is pretty low @ 7 psi. May be able to pick up parts at local ace hardware store or something.

The truck balance kits are pricey. Here is a pic of a kit for rear of HD. http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Harley-Davidson-FLHT-Touring-UltraClassic-96-Motorcycle-Air-Shock-Absorbers-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/~d4AAOxy79VRcXED/$T2eC16J,!)0E9s37FbCyBRc(ECsMKQ~~60_12.JPG I'm thinking earls lines. Are the holes for the air valves 8mm? If so a fitting like this some -4 an line and a T fitting. Would probably have to thread the inside of one of the T fitting holes to reinstall the scharder valve. The fitting lists for about $8ea T fitting $18 Line if you get like brake lines @ 6" run $18ea. Should be able to buy unmade bulk line less but you still need to add ends then. Anyway we go it aint cheap. Prices were from Summit

I did look at the post. I left a message on that thread about the harness mod. Definatly a good idea to put it where a human could get at it. Here is a pic I posted there.

I like the ide of relocating the main fuse to somewhere a human can get to. I do have a couple of questions on the harness though. I looked at the wireing schematic and think I am looking at it right but still...... There is a 4 prong connector that goes in under the relay. 2 of those (the top I think) are jumpers more or less and feed the top of the fuse. On your harness I see 2 female spade connectors, I'm guessing these go to the relay as that is the only connections still in tack after my experience. It was like the outer "box" plastic deal broke loose from the relay. On your harness the black connector I'm missing where/what it goes to. See attachment please.

rougeray: Thanks for the link. I havent looked it up yet. I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one to run across this. Seems where the unit hangs its condusive to collecting battery overflow and also probably alot of splash from the wheel. I too applied the dielectric grease on the blades now but it dont help the fact that the plastic has seperated. The blades look pretty corroded and unfortunatly I didnt find a good way to clean other than scraping with a flat screw stick.

Have not looked at schematic in awhile. but if power is available off the 5 pin and your using a condensor mic, couldnt you get your power off there vs a stand alone (battery) power? I have been looking at building a headset also for my shorty. I built a splice in 5 pin connector and have run a seperate 3.5mm cable up for sound with the std 5pin. I plug in ear buds and it helps me actually hear the music especillay with the shorty helmet. They just seem to want a bunch of money for a shorty helmet set up that I just need the 5 pin plug (which I now know where to get) and a mic.

Would be interesting to see if they have a 5yr old kit still in stock. I haent been able to find one either.

Jeff I though about it a couple times. If I knew exactly which fitting and could procure them, a fellow could fab up some braided steel earls lines or aeroquip and be in bussiness. I guess you could just run the lines to the forks to a "t" then install the schrader valve there huh?

Well you make my Canada accomplishment seem minor. We left Bowmanville Ont Mon the 2nd @ 70 am and made Bluefiled WV @ 6:30. Not a huge accomplishment but something like 645 miles. Next day I left Bluefiled WV @ 7am and was home in Sebring Fl by 7:30 pm 775 miles. That I 26 from Columbia SC to I 95 is tough if you get a couple trucks playing tag up and down the hills. Jacksonville had construction sloed to about 15 mph. imagine my suprise (not) and as luck would have it I hit Orlando @ 5:30. So all in all not bad time at all.

On my trip to Canada I kept most of my stuff I needed to get ot easy in the right bag. Well we stopped at the boarder and got across OK. A couple hours later we stopped for fuel. I finnished and got my log book out to put miles and galons. Closed the bag, but something just felt off when closing. We got to hotel and I couldnt get the bag open. I tried all kinds of stuff as I thought maybe a map or something got jammed in the lock. Once it got a bit darker you could peek thru the crack and see the front latch didnt make it back far enough to get into the "cup" thing where the latch was. I was paniced as I knew I needed my passport to get back across. We managed to get it up far enough to get it sorted out. Later after we sorted out the problem I figured I better square out the bag and situate things. Well my snak bag had an explosion and I had m&m and sunflower seeds everywhere in the bag. would have been easier to take off but didnt have the tools. Take the bag off, turn upside down in yard and let the sun heat'er up. Wax should pretty much pour out.

You must be in a different part of Fla than I have seen. lol Unless it was an on ramp to the expressway.

Well this happened to me today. My 09 and I just got off a 3300 mile trip. Ran fine and I never had a lick of problems starting. Bike sits 2 weeks in garage and now nothing. So I researched here and looked for some ideas. Well who would have thunk you had to pull a passenger floorboard to get at the main 30a fuse. So I finnaly got to it and it was caked like it had battery acid over flow or something on it. fuse was shorted open and no good. The connections for the battery looked rusty and corroded also. I mixed some baking soda and water and brushed on to remove what corrosion I could. Some dielectric greas on spades and put back together. Thats when the plastic outer ring thing that the 4 prong plug goes into broke off and now nothing holds it onto the starter relay assy. I didnt even know what it was until I looked it up on a parts fiche. I dont know if that whole thing is a part you would have to buy or you could get the part with the connectors. I slpiiped a tie wrap around the 4 prong and the relay to hold it together. Sure am glad this didnt happen on the road.

Your not imaginaing the buffeting. It does move the bike around. But you have to remember how many square feet of sail your riding there. Big boxy things, semi's RV's U-hauls make big holes in air. When the air comes slamming back together its going to move you. Follow a mini van it might not be as ruff. I found that you have to find that right distance to stay back and then pass the big trucks, because they will move you around in the lane.

To my knowledge the 2 Mobil 1 chioces of "motorcycle" oil is as stated. 10w40 and the 20w50. The owners manual for my 09 says not to use any deisel oils with a spec of "CD" or energy conservation label of II or higher. You really should be running atleast a 10w40 here in Fla. The recomendations for 10 deg to 110 is 10w40. also says from50 deg to 130 to use 20w50. Its up to you but I would definatly be running the 10w40 in this hot state. Heat breaks the oil down and thins it out. Then it dont lube like it should. Also oil disapates heat some and a thicker oil should carry some of that away. In the summer I run the Rotella T6 and 1 to 1.5 qt of 20w50 mixed in. Winter the straight T6. At $25 or so an oil change for oil vs $40 it does it for me.

Wow I would have thought someone would have been able to confirm or discredit my thought by now.

When I lowered my forks in triple tree I had a simular deal. I loosened bolts but couldnt get the forks where I wanted to sit. I took the front wheel off and put axle back in. Witout the weight I could get forks to move.

Ok looked thru the parts fish. I didnt see any OD switch. So I got to thinking about the sequetial race transmissions I worked on. The gear indicator works simply off the shift drum rotating. Every so many degrees it "thinks" its in a higher gear. Its all done by OHMs I suspect. Anyways what I figured is it must work off the "neutral" switch. Go to the wiring diagrham and sure enough to me it looks as though the OD light is wired thru the neutral switch indicator. Page 485 is where I found it when I brought it up. In the service manual.

Another option if your handy making things is you could make your own bracket. You could run the wires along the brake lines say and make a bracket that attached to the fender brace or at the caliper. If you dont have the light bar there are a coupl holes under the faring on triple tree where they mount. You could fabricate a bracket and mount them off there. I like alumium, light weight, easy to bend depending on what type you use flat vs angle or tubing etc. Also if you work on it a little with some chrome polish it shines up really nice.

With lower restriction type muffs I think a little poping is going to happen. My RK muff have some on decell. As for milage thats about par. I just got of a 3200+ mile trip and got from 33 to 40. Mph @ 80 was crap 34 maybe.Sower speeds better milage under like 70. My milage 2 up is around 36 with gear.

Hind site being what it is I would probably spend the extra for upgraded headsets from the base or cheaper ones. My mic's have alot of background noise when turned up so I can hear her. I might would look into the bluetooth relm also. The plus there is you can listen to what you want to and she can listen to her stations.

Well the jammed latch sydrom has got me now. I think part of an atlas is jammed. I have messed with it for an hour. I have to get it open as my passport is in it and Im in canada. One way or another its comming open.

Stroker yup I got a gigunda set, a large and normal pair. They work pretty well. But in reality the filter should only be hand tight. but there are those ocasions it is very dificult. I ran K&N on the FJ 1200 legends car motor for a long time. I also have a pair of pliers that are actually made for oil filters with rounded jaws. 2 things to remember, the best kind of oil is clean oil and secondly changing oil without a filter is like taking a shower with your socks on.

Mike is that the billet alum one? Has screen inside and you wash with solvent or brake kleen? I looked at those then read the size of particulates it filters and was told not fine enough. I have been using the Purolator gold thats a little longer L14610 They are like $6 vs the $18 for K&N. But if your happy with the K&N.

Craigs list is a great place to look for used bike equipment. I got a very nice double tank bag for around $30 I think. Its a cortech 33 liter or something. Small and large bag stack. Its discontinued now but new was in the neighborhood of $150. I have gotten some good deals. Lots of folks buy gear and later decide that riding is not for them ro they change bikes and dont need the same gear they had before.

AS long a simular tread pattern and construction. Dont mix bias ply and radial. You may be able to get a Shinko in a wide whitewall. I personnaly dont care for them. Takes to much time out of riding to clean them, and they allways look dingy with brake dust.