djh3

Might be able to use ear buds with it instead of the speakers. That would help with the sound quality.

I would have to consult my notes. Yup all the intakes were tight. I had 2 that were really tight but within spec. I pulled the shim to see what was in it and I had one slightly smaller. Had like a 282 shim in it so I had a 280. Numbers may be different but about that spacing. As for the tool. I think if a guy had access to a the rite machine you take a crows foot of the correct size and make one.

I agree. Not that bad of a job once you get to it. But holy crap I had better than 6hr just getting junk outa the way to get covers off. I kept a running time sheet and I thin I had like almost 12hr in the job. Granted I went slower than a shop would but I didn't want to break anything and some of the stuff I just wasn't sure how it came apart or if it really had to come off. I think I could probably do it in a day or less now.

Although it is hard to do sometimes, just because you got all that power don't mean you got to use it all the time. I use to have a rule about cars and driving. When you learn its on a stick. If its a small underpowered car its should be a stick shift that way you can try to get out of the way. Sometimes smaller is better, and I can see the reasoning as far as weight. but I would hate to see someone start on a 250 and in 2 months be looking for something bigger. If you start around 650-900 at least they should be able to ride that one for a few years.

This is HUGE big stink here in Fla. Especially the Tampa area. Orlando had a big rash of them and lawyers will take your case on and got a lot of them thrown out because an actual officer did not witness it. Tampa news did a piece and found out that mysteriously the cameras on lights had a shorter yellow period. Now that seems odd huh? So I got one of them tickets up in Haynes City Fl. Got pick in the mail and web site. So I go to site and watched video. I would have called it a tie more than likely but I definatly was in the intersection when red. So the lawyers will fight them for you, its around $90-100 bucks when all said and done. Then ticket was $158 and no points. Also in the pic it showed how fast I was going. Allegedly by the pic 55 in a 45 zone. I read some more about taking it to court. If I lost I not only had to pay the $158, but had to pay court cost also. So I figured I was done either for speeding which is points or the $158 and watch my step. Boomer I spent 20yr in the USAF and the way that justice system works your guilty until you can prove otherwise. I have seen it at work.

WOW I had mine built 5 pin male to plug into the RSV comm harness and female so I could plug the earbuds in. If you want the opposite, I will really have to dig for the 5 pin female to see if I have one.

My switch for the lights is actually a push one and off button covered in a rubber boot to keep the weather out. It is kind of mounted in a bad place if you want to turn on and off. Its way under the aux power socket on the left of the faring. As was mentioned use a relay in the circuit to operate. Sometimes the directions I have been told have it wired so if high beam is on the lights will not work. Mine are on all time.

Might be a bit big but the Kawasaki 900 Vulcans have been out long enough now they should be approachable price wise. The 750 Honda shadows are a good starter. Ya kind of hate to throw them on something big right off the bat because of the power but if they like the more straight up type Buell made some really good bikes. Blast was smaller of them, once they jumped to the bigger 1200 range they had sportster engines in them. Maybe a Kawi Concur or FJR. You didn't mention age or driving experience. If like 16-17 I guess I would lean towards the smaller bikes. Most states anymore the MSF is a requirement to get your endorsement. But not every state requires and endorsement. Silly as that is. Also riding without an endorsement in a state that requires it is like not having a license at all if the insurance company gets involved and they want to be crappy about it.

Sure hope you don't need that extra gas much. Don't look easy to get to. I'm glad you said something about the spare protecting it, as that would be one of my concerns. Maybe fab up a rock gaud if after a couple trips it looks like its getting pelted. Sharp job on all the install work.

Dan you don't need it like yesterday rite? I'll say that the last one I made was "weather resistant". I used it in a days worth of riding 12hr most of it in rain up to Charlotte from Fla. give me a couple days here I got to round up the parts. Hey being I have to fabricate it up anyways, about how long of a wire would you want on it from the place it plugs in. The shortest I can go is about 3.5-4" might be able to go a little shorter but not much. If you want a little longer that's do-able.

My experience with the 3rd party warranties is not good either. Although not on a bike it was on a mini-van we had. Some part of the controller for the AC went out they didn't want to cover it because it wasn't "part of the AC system" We haggled back and forth and my side of it was the AC wont work without it so its needed for the AC. There is some much fine print I don't think a lawyer can read all of it.

I think I would go with the 3rd one down on the Fastenall listing. Same nut but is lock nut not nyloc

The halogen ones are defiantly brighter. But you need to watch the wattage on them. A lot of them are 55w and the ole electrical charge system cant handle that. 35w is what you need. I have halogens I picked up off e-bay for under $30-35. I am considering the LED but the truck lite ones are just outa my price range. I have considered the ones from northern tool. They are under $40 and I know not as useful as the truck lite ones. After I installed the HID headlight even the halogen ones look yellowish.

Yes I do. I also have a 5 pin connector that plugs into the intercom. I have made a couple of these for guys. I have seen the edsets and a couple others. While they are pretty and compact they are pricey as heck as far as I'm concerned. I think I charged like $12 for the last one I made. I would post you a pic but, my PC bit the dust last week and I have not got everything swapped and figured out where its at yet.

What kind? A Vue, SL sedan, Ion ??? If I remember right the Vue is electro hydraulic or some such nonsense. Anyways not typical. The rest I think have pretty much a standard rack and pinion unit. Last one I did was about maybe 10 bolt including the tie rod ends. 4 mount to the frame. The bugger can be if its power steering, them lines are a !@$. See if you can look ne up at an online parts house like AutoZone or USA auto parts. Probably need jack stands to get it up high enough. After your all done its going to need an alignment also

I have the extra holes at the top on mine. I will say I don't top it way up if I'm not riding on that tank of gas for awhile. So on a trip I take advantage of the extra holes if I'm going to the house I don't fill it up so much due to expansion. I typically on a trip am in that same 170 mile range. Usually 4.3 to 4.8 gallon's for a fill. Once I put a scary 5.3 or so I think. From most of what I have found out the book states 6.2 gal, but the usable is only about 5.8. Because there is trapped fuel on the right side that cant get over to the petcock and there is not a transfer tube/line like back in the olden days. My MPG on a trip running say north of 70 is about 35 with a best of 38. When I hit reserve I figure about 15 miles or so.

Well sure enough the MOB was DOA. Called ASUS and the guy confimed it. Sometimes I hate it when I'm rite. So hop on the bike 2hr up to the nearest tiger direct, swap board back on bike to come home. I sure have spent alot of time doing nothing on this thing. When I got home put it all together and slowly plug things in and got up and running. One problem I have is my HDD from the old PC is an IDE drive. The drive has all my pics, internet favorites stuff like that on it. I have a couple of those plug in the IDE slot adapters but the computer will not boot up if that drive is installed. I have the jumper set on it so it is suposed to be a slave drive now. Dont know how I'm going to acces this drive so I can salvage this stuff. Any ideas folks?

DANG I totaly forgot it was that time of year. With my back problems late last month and the computer dieng last week and in a frenzy to get it fixed I forgot all about it. I have made 2 trips up to Brandon to get parts to fix the computer. One to buy part, the other to exchange faulty ones. Flip side is I got to ride some nice back roads and I think I found you a better way to come across next time. Glad you both had a good time. I like to go "look see" but the crowds aint my style.

OH my and the hits just keep on comming. Got everything assymebled tonight. Turn power on and go to set up BIOS for boot sequence etc. NOTHING Black screen no bios, no writing no nothing. REset CMOS I even pulled the battery out. RAM in and out swapped arround one stick in changed slots all that. Still nothing. It beeps once, then a pause then 2 quick beeps. So far the best I can find out from the internet this is indicationg bad RAM. Its brand new 2 sticks of good quality Kingston. I find it hard to belive you would get 2 bad pieces. To add to the misery tech support comes up with a message about "due to severe weather" they are closed. To go to the store to swap is 2hr one way, even onthe RSV this could get expensive now.

Prime Beef and I scoped one out a few weeks back that has possibilities. Got an issue going on work wise right now. Also my normal Pc bit the dust last week and I'm trying to put one together. Got it all put together tonight and thought I would start loading programs. Well this is NOT my week for tech stuff. I cant even get the POST screen for the bios to come up. So late at night now no tech support so I'm done.

Well spent less than buying a complete system. I ended up buying Win 7 64 bit (whatever that means) I would list it all here but its out in the other room and I'm being lazy rite now. AMD fx 4300 cpu, asus MOB, 8gb ram, 1tb hdd and a cd/dvd-rw optical drive. Now to get it up and running in next couple days.

@ 3564 songs I'm not sure I can afford that much music. LOL Actually I would have about 2 4gb cards maybe. I gues you could sort of "shuffle" the music as you load on the card. That would be the only way to mix it up right? If you just load say the Chiacgo cd then Lynard Skynard then Alman Brothers thats the way it plays them, in that order?

Well congrats, sort of I guess. Its good you sold your house as they aint selling that great dispite what the guberment sez. Sucks you got to do it at this time for you. The brite side is youll be a little more central located and thats a pretty nice are there in the center of the state. Plus your moving "out of that neighborhood". If ya know what I mean as we have talked before. But whats the "professor" going to do now?

Yea thats the deal. I understand it typicaly goes in the left saddlebag where the CD was. But draw back to it is something abou tit has to be turned on at the unit and turned off again when parking like overnight. Something about the way its powered. I dont think its very big so room is not killed. I dont see any reason you couldnt mount in trunk like some have the CD. To me if the MP3 was in the trunk it would be less hassel to turn on and off. Do a search for that unit and you will run across what I'm talking about.

Jet if you got one for cheap I'd say go for it. If its going to cost you say $150 or so I would look into the I-simple deal that uses the same connection. I'm not an apple fan, matter of fact the only apple I got is in the fridge. But as for music its probably the best way to go. The CD is nice, but as mentioned it does skip a bit on bumps. It also is a storage hog. If you are going on long trips and need space it eats the entire left side bag just about. If my wife and I go on a long trip I have to take it out so I can get 2 pairs of rain gear in the left bag. There is an MP3 player made by someone 3rd hand that will plug in and work off the control on the hadle bars