djh3

Yea I picked up over on the Victory site. Reminded me of a joke from many years back when I bought a Vette. Went something like Got a good deal on a Vette only paid XXX. Dozen roses to break news to wife X. Dinner when took wife for ride in said car XX. New scarf, sunglass XX and so on so the total went up.

As Chico used to say "Looking Goood". I thought about a HD with the water cooled for a little while. But I have stayed with the Victory. And I totally understand the heat you felt with the Indian. Enjoy man.

Thanks' for the up date Don. I rode one of the new R18 at Bike week and liked it. For me the K bikes are out as my inseam is to short. LOL But have entertained the thoughts of an R1200. Lower reach point. Keeping you all in our thoughts. Hope your treatments work out in your benefit.

On the site here there is a procedure in the tech section I think, for cleaning the contacts up. Also under the tank there is the leads that go the the switch. Loose or bad connection puts a draw and melts the plug.

Been a long time, but seems about right to what I would get. I may have got low 30s on the high speed stuff, but I am a cruise control guy. So of that would probably depend on how much weight you had packed up too.

Yup saw this several times in automotive world. More frequent for whatever reason on front brakes. So what happens over time is the rubber flex hose deteriorates inside. It can act as a one way valve so to speak. It will allow flow (pressure) to caliper, and then because pieces of the inside are blocking and there is not the pressure of your piston pushing the fluid it cant return on the very low pressure of the static return. So my somewhat educated guess (50+ years automotive) is the hose is kaput. You already did the troubleshooting. It had pressure, you released at caliper and it rolled free. Then it did the same action again. Shouldn't be to expensive to repair.

Don sorry to hear this news. Hope you get some relief and a plan when the Doc sees ya. I have been hear a few years and have greatly appreciated the folks I have met thru your vision of the site.

So if it feels like the front wheel tracks to much for you, take a look see what size it is. One "trick" us folks that wanted a better feel at low speed was to change the front tire size. Of course its been to many years for me to remember which way we went. But I think it was a little narrower and taller

"I've gotten to the point that it has to be no hotter than the mid 80s to enjoy a meal ride now. " LOL You'd starve to death here than. We are barely getting below 80 at night here in North Fla.

Well I guess an option is an aftermarket extended warranty if your that worried about things. I get calls every week my vehicle warranty is about to expire on my 2012 Ram with 130k on it. Seriously if its a 21 and you put 12k a year on it, I would think your at least 2-3 years from any kind of problems.

If you can take the gas tank off, you can probably install the by pass relay. But it sounds like you have switch issues with the tumblers. You mention gas cap problems, so leads me to think the key itself is the culprit. The key should have a number on it, and I think a Yamaha dealer can make you a new one off that info. Or possibly thru the Vin they cam get the code. To do the keyless set up I use to make it is a bit more in depth and really I intended it more as a emergency thing than a permanent fix. A new switch if you find one is pricey. If you look here on the site there is a "repair" for a finicky switch. Over the years and with the way Yamaha did the ignition system, the contacts get arched, and then some folks wiggle the key around to get a good contact and then you end up with what you may have going on.

Check your main harness to the ignition switch. Some of those had a problem with melting. It plugs in under the tank. Which I'm sure is close to full if you need to pull it. Mine always is.

Electrical is my least favorite also. I can usually muddle my way thru. My. It would run fine some days, My Victory I had a couple things going on. Some days run fine, others 10-15 min and cut off, sometimes it would catch rite back others a couple minutes and would restart and run OK. Go worse about the cutting out. Their info in the shop manual is thin at best. You havent lived until you have to get into CAN Buss stuff. Ended up crank sensor, even though it was with in "tech limits"

I mounted mine upfront on left side behind a plastic panel.

Sent you a PM with some info.

Ah help a fellow out here. What kind of jack adapter? Radio intercom to ear bud, or for the jack to raise bike for work?

I suppose its possible. I think I have had maybe 2 or 3 relays go bad in the years I have made the harness. Its just a standard 5 pin Bosh type. I guess on the extremes outside, the switch could be compromised. But if the key turns not likely, usually what happens is the contacts arch and then dont make good contact to start/run the bike.

I dont know where gaurd dawg is plugging in. But I would think if its "plug and play" it would have to plug in where the ignition switch does. So all that would be done is just remove the ignition side of relay and plug in the GD unit if it is truly plug and play.

IF your going to get out and ride it your OK. I use to run 110 LL Av gas in my race cars and some in the mower LOL

Is it not a micro switch right up at the clutch area? Side stand switch was my first thought, but being it is triked I assume that switch has been jumped.

What happened to the old one?

I Might ride that down to get it replaced. No room for water if it rained on the way though.

Hmm Something smells fishy here.

I had one on disk and then later found the book on e bay. The files are all I have for my Victory. It works, you can either bring it up on phone or I print out what I need and take out to garage.