djh3

I also carry a spare "regular" bulb with me wrapped in bubble wrap.

Your road and bridge dept must work a whole lot faster than ours.

I have seen the trim mentioned in some parts stores in long enough lengths to do something like that. But my local store only seems to carry "door edge guard" Same sort of stuff but they are in like maybe 36" lengths. The stuff your talking about comes in like a 10' roll or so dont it? Also I ordered one of the horns in Black. I checked today and no chrome or red. I have 2 stebels on the bike but the horn on the wifes car just bit the dust, lows only. Can you give me a ruff idea of the bracketry you had to make to mount the horn on the right in place of the OEM.

There is a "regular" bulb that will significantly improve your night illumination. It is a Wagner BP1210H4 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-BP1210H4-Miniature-Lamp/dp/B000CR3UW6]Amazon.com: Wagner BP1210H4 Miniature Lamp: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41n7oGVhB7L.@@AMEPARAM@@41n7oGVhB7L[/ame]. I had one in mine until I got scared reading about the wires possibly being to small to carry that load. So I went HID. There is a "rewire" that can be done to run the Wagner bulb and I have seen a kit to to this, although rite now I dont recall where. I went with an HID kit. It is good and really bright but there are some feelings that the lens not being made for HID displace the light incorrectly and you do not get full optics from this conversion. The CREE LED headlight is new and as far as I know the other fellow that posted the link here is the first one to use one. So some kind of review from him would be your best bet.

So far I have at the front relay which is the only one I could get at easy. I have 12v on 3 of 4 pins.

On the rear I took the relay out of the picture and tried the OEM horn, it worked. I did not however try it with a relay. And on the front I put 12v to the horn and it worked. Direct from a battery charger. So I dunno kind of stumped at the moment.

Started at front horn. I got 12v all over the place. Every post except one I think had 12v. Go down to horn-nothing no voltage, push button same thing. Put a new relay in, same results. So I got peaved and went to back. Removed the relay harness and installed OEM horn and it works. Put harness back together and installed a new relay there, same results not a dang peep. SO I give up. Electrics has not been my friend this week. What would the incredible chances of 2 relays going bad at the same time be??? Is the front horn controled by the rear working?

Long stick (broom handle)

I used the OEM wires to the relay"s. I gave the horns a shot off a battery charger so they work. I can hear both relays click, but got nothing from wires at the horn. I dont know why this horn system just baffles the heck out of me. IT's like Lucas electrical in GB wired it. I guess now I'll go rip it apart to make sure I have 12v to the relay (battery feed) I suppose the relay could click if it had voltage to it but no power to send thru.

I saw a discussion on this a week or so back onanother board. It seems the Tour Deluxe passing lamps have an additional mount that goes back to the headlight area. I think it had the same one that goes to the triple tree, but I dont know if you could just cut it off and use one for a TD or not.

Well since this post started I thought they looked pretty nice as an option to the more expensive chrome WOLO, Stebel, Kuraykin versions. Was driving the wifes car somewhere the other day and hit her horn and only the lows of her air horn (an old trumpet set) worked. So I think one of the plain Stebels is going on her car and I'll put one of these on mine. First I need to figure out why the horns dont work. They did the other day, as I used them on one of our Canadian visitors to remind them one lane to a customer. Yesterday took a ride and no horn. I have not dug real deep, but I can hear the relay clicking, but no voltage at horn connections. Well the front anyways as I didnt mess with the rear, the exhaust was really hot. Did some reading last night, both leads at horn should be hot until button is pushed?

If you have compressed air available I suggest blowing all the plug holes out and surronding area. To keep as much dirt and FOD out as you can.

That will probably be the "next" Venture. So you will be a forward thinking visionary.

Depending on how long the bike has sat without running you may want to try this. Pull the plugs so it will roll thru easier, and a drop or so of oil on cam lobe and rotate thru a few times. Its probably not going to change your reading but may help the gauge slide in a bit easier. But read thru the thread on valve clearance, I thought it said to start at TDC and then work your way around the engine, The cams should be almost straight away from the tappet at the TDC marks.

We were running some errands today and the sign we went by was 91

I would have to go out and find my old 35w bulbs, but part of the reason I changed them was even without the HID they looked sort of yellow. I am told that PIAA has a holgen H3 bulb that looks pretty close to the LED or HID a nice crisp white.

Fuse would probably be the easiest thing to start with. Then I think I would go to a ground. Just an FYI when you go to check the fuse use an OHM meter. Recently someone on here had a light problem and checked the fuse by sight it looked good. Upon further inspection with a meter it failed. Also over on the Delphi boards there were 2 similar events.

Hey I might resemble that remark.

ALWR-Index card box like storage type from maybe office depot? I kind of like that. Looks like it might also help with sun on screen. What type GPS do you mount there?

Usually the shims have thickness stamped (ink) on them. I still mic every one of them before I put them in and when I take them out. I have taken shims out before that have nothing on them. I can only imagine they were a "replacement" type shim. In that case for my own knowledge I write on them in sharpie

Well if going with sort of a bike motif, Easy Rider I guess would have to be in there somewhere. Also dont know if they had any posters but something from "Then came Bronson" http://www.thencamebronson.com/images/cyclewld.jpghttp://farm4.staticflickr.com/3227/2790087484_e0b350b7b7_z.jpg

The one thing you need to bear in mind on buying a bike or car on a rebuilder or salvage title. You probably will never get the actual market value for it because it has been totaled out once. Now if you find something you love and are going to keep it, or get a smokin deal on it and drive it for awhile and then sell it OK. But dont expect to get blue book for it. Depends on your state as to how they issue out titles also. I have entertained the idea of a salvge bike that needs some minor stuff like the plastics and chrome stuff, no frame damage. But my word they want almost as much for what I am looking for as a non-salvage bike. Good luck.

Basicly the "arm length" is how far away you would want the unit to be off the handlebars. Depending on how you mount it up of course. For my GPS (garmin 765) I think I went with sort of the most common I think 3". Just sort of depends onthe angle of the dangle you want.

Yes there are several bikes that use this same shim. V-max should (being our engine is) 1st and 2nd Gen Venture, The tour Deluxe. Yamaha FJ series bikes 1100,1200,1300. Honda CBX, CB 1100f, 750/900/100c They are a 25mm valve shim. This listing has a pretty good idea of what other bikes it fits. His selection though to me is a bit to many thick ones. I got tons of like .278-.290 To buy a kit I think depending on how big a variety you get is $90. Is there a local bike shop? You may have better luck with an independent guy. Once you check the vavles, and have the tool you can go thru and remove the out of spec valve shim and see whats in it. Compare to the charts and maybe swap around to get most cylinders in spec. Then only need maybe a couple shims and you can just pick up the couple you need locally. Then the key is to keep a chart of what shim is in what cyl so next time around it is not a guessing game.

PUC yup with ya on the seat on ole Bronsons scoot. Thats how now I know it was "TV". lol Nobody can ride one of them things all day.