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Get some break free soaking on it. Is the extractor broke off in the bolt now? I'm guessing you have managed to completely strip out the allen head. Can you get a punch in the center of the head. Give it a few good raps. Unfortunately I think all you will be able to do is drill it and try to get an extractor in it. You can try left hand drill bits. Center punch the head. Start small to get a good straight hole started. Then move up a size at a time. If your using left hand drill bits it may create enough heat while drilling to loosen it up and it will walk its self out. If not keep moving up until you drill the head off the allen. Then remove the footrest. Then youll have to vise grip the left in part out. There are different typs and styles of extractors out there. I personaly have not had great luck with the tapered looking ones (the ones that sort of look like a left handed screw). I have a set of extractors that have what looks like a nut on the top and a grooved pin straight down. Sort of like this. The tapered ones, either I cant seem to get them in far enough or because they are square at top I cant ever get a wrench on it that will turn it. I dont own many 12 point box wrenches or sockets, most are 6 point. Let us know how you get on with it.

LOL Yea well I told you also. If the stars lined up rite for me I'd be on a Victory. But I would still hang around here because its just a great bunch of folks. I mean the let Brake Pad and SilverT stay and even guys with Harleys. So as long as its all fun. BTW Barry, you need to update your signature.

The one thing they all have in common? They shop at Wal-Mart

Heres a complete set of exhaust for $250 shipped Although it does have the split mufflers. Easy enough to change I suppose if you got yours.

Yes and No. I know not much help. Yes I would think a exhaust shop could fix & add a piece in there for you. Bad part is that pipe looks so rusted that I think your going to have the same type problem in the near future. Bead blasting may help see what it actually looks like. It may be that the rust is just scaled up badly and look like crap. Or it could actually be that bad. Try a wire brush and scraper to knock some of the excess off to see what you actually have there.

For a phone mount I would recomend one like this. You will also have to buy the mount part to go on the bike, so probably have maybe $35 in it. I think when what I am using now gives up its what I am going to. Plus you can use it for other phones when you change. I have a Ram Mount for my GPs and its top notch.

WE went to College Station years ago for a race down there at the race track when it was operating. WE found a BBQ joint just up the street from the hotel we stayed at. First time we were ever served BBQ without a plate or utensils. My son was maybe 8 or so, he thought it was great. Oh and the BBQ was pretty dang good too. I like a slice of raw onion to go with mine. Nice pics. Looks like you enjoyed your time.

For those of us that failed metric conversion back in grade school. 19=66f 21=almost 70 So other than the 17c (62.5 poss rain) I wouldnt have any complaints.Shoot 40% chance of rain (unless I need to metric convert that) is a nice day here in the summer, about normal.

Take the sun screen and use it. We went on about 200 miles today and my arms are feeling the sun.

From my information from friends in the auto sales business. Once a vehicle has a "salvage" title basicly its worth very little. Regardless of how much damage. I agree if it dont have frame damage it probably dont need to be totaled. But like was said, the plastic parts are so dang high. I have looked several times at some salvage bikes and cars. And what you have to keep in mind is you will never get book value for it because it was totaled at one time. That is unless something black ops goes on with paperwork. If you want something and are going to love it forever thats one thing. But buy it to try to make money is probably not going to happen. Your choice. I think I would go the Goldwing route or look into one of the nice bikes for sale by members here. Personaly I would be down at the Victory delaer picking out my next ride.

ION Mine was on its way out I suspect. Only time I had problems would be swaping from main to reserve. Soetimes it was fine, other times it would caugh and not gain speed back. Let it sit a few minutes and all was good. I changed out the pump to the Mr Gasket 42s on recomendation from some fellows on another board and what I read here. I made a write up over there with some pics. Its also submitted here and when Freebird get the chance he will get posted.

I think I remember something about 60% of value and they total a bike. So if the bike is worth say $5000 and takes $3500 to fix with LKQ parts your going to get a check. One of my favorite questions when they total it out and say you get X dollars is "you find me one like mine for that price"

1 vote "they dont care" and possibly a vote for "its like a bicycle they can stop"

I think maybe part of the reason you think you dont hear it as much on the TD is because of the faring maybe reflecting the sound back in a different way than the windshield does. A new clutch basket may take the whine away for awhile, but I suspect once it gets work its back. Possibly the only way to eliminate it is change out the basket and the drive gear that mates to it in the trans. I have no idea what that would incorporate.

So Bert hows the light now you have had it a bit for operational check?

Headlight on the RSV very difficult to actually upgrade. The lens is sealed to the housing. SO only option without tons of work is an HID, which some say lens is not suitable for. Or an upgrade 80w100 halogen Wagner BP 2010 or something like that. I have the Wagner and took it out. As I read threads about the minimal wire gauge that was running the headlight I decided to go HID. Now there was a thread where a fellow found a CREE LED bulb to go into the H$ housing and he was ordering it. But I have not heard anything on the swap in awhile. I would consider running the Wagner 80w100, but would run some new wiring with a relay.

Well to start with any state that is spelled one way and pronounced a different way, what do ya expect. Your neighbor to the north is Cans-az and you all spell same way and its Ark-can-saw Whats up with that. We lived in your neighbor to the west there for awhile (20 yr) We definitely saw some odd names. Gotebo Electra Tx, now in Fla I have been thru a few and dont remember many of them. But Yeehaw Junction sticks in my head. Its a cross road with a flashing red light, restraunt (sort of) and gas.

So some pictures and a little description of where and how severe the exhaust is rotted would help. Or did you order exhaust from the head back? If just swapping muffler I see no need to take the head pipes off unless you know you have a leak there. It should be pretty obvious. You can take a piece of paper maybe an inch wide, while bike is running and hold it in and around the connection to the head and pipe. If there is exhaust escaping it should blow the paper. Also I would think you would see some graying at the leak site. The popping could be a couple things. AIS, ignition timing (which there isnt alot you can do for it) or exhaust leak, possibly carb sync. Basicly you are getting unburned exhaust gases hot enough to burn after the gas is in the pipe. Now weather its because the oxygen level has increased or the fuel in the mixture has its hard to tell. But usually I think its the oxygen. Thats what the AIS does if I remember rite, put O2 in the exhaust to pass emissions. If its just the mufflers rusted off, throw a set of Road Kings on there for cheap, say you should be able to find a pair for under $60.

From the info I have read from fellows painting all makes of bikes. For whatever the reason colorrite is about the only place that has codes for bikes. PPG, Dupont, house of color etc just dont fool with it. I guess because its such a small (when compared to cars) market. Now depending on what you are painting a good body shop should be able to get close if your say painting a trailer to match or something like that. If your trying to paint say a trunk or saddlebag that has been replaced event the exact factory color code will be disappointing. Because the bike has faded over the 7 odd years new paint wont match. If your completely repainting, well go for whatever color suits your fancy.

You folks up north where bikes get stored in the winter I think have a bit more to worry. Cagers dont se bikes for 4 or 5 months and forget about them I think. At least here in Fla we are out all the time. Dont always help but They may be a little more aware fo them. Well when they put down the latte, cell phone etc anyways.

11 years and 1200 miles??? Whats he do drive it annually to the DMV to get tags?

Here is the very very short article on the crash. Sure not much info. Now that it was mentioned I do see the big canister thing hanging down there. Sure had me fooled. Its hard to tell what it is when its upside down, other than bad.

Crestview hmmmm I'm trying to get my bearings on where your at. Oh my your way north of me. See if this diagram for a relay hook up helps you out. It sounds like you need to find a "continuous" power ie: battery source for terminal 30 on the relay.

Many have went to the trucklite LED. You have to be careful if you stay with halogens. The wiring will not support 55w bulbs for long. At least the wires on mine wouldnt. I am researching some cree LED bulbs to use. Anything besides the incandescent "tractor" type lites is better. Do some searching on here for like "passing light suggestions" driving lights, fog lights. PAR 36 is what the bulb has to fit. I dont know what kind you have so its hard to say. I had just a regular "tractor" type utility lamp sealed beam in mine when I bought it. I upgraded to a 35w halogen in an alure housing. Now I swapped those bulbs out for some el-cheapo LED bulbs I had. They are not very brite at all. Something like this is what was orginaly in mine. This is what I changed to. Looks like the bulb/lens in pic. These are the pricey buggers some are going to.

You wont be saying that now. I dont know nothin about a Goldwing