djh3

E-mail sent with info to Seaking. Here is a article on how to "rebuild" or clean up your old switch. If your game it may get you quite a few more years out of it with the by-pass relay installed, as the high amps will no longer go thru the switch and burn the contacts.

On my 765t it is "lifetime" traffic. So I dont pay, but if I did it would be gone. I can only think of 1 time it has helped me out. Most times it will show red and say 5 min delay. But to actually figure out where the delay is so you can decide what you want to do is a whole new can of worms, and on the bike.......fa geta bout it. Not all city's and regions play the game either. Charlotte NC does, but Jacksonville Fla dont from what I remember. So its hit an miss at best.

Ya never know around here. I wouldnt put it past someone.

If it turns out to be a switch I may have a fix for ya cheaper than the $300 for a new one from Yamaha. I make a by-pass kit, and you could put it on a hidden toggle switch. See this write up. E mail me if you have any questions.

If you need to blast 5 gal of air thru that your in big trouble anyways.

If the bike cranks over I doubt it the switch. But if you want to check it out there is a 3 pin connector under the tank that needs 2 wires jumpered. They both have a tracer. Should be a blue/black and a blue/yellow. Just jumper it with a paper lip or something from the back side and see if you get spark. does the radio and CB etc come on? Lights?

Simular restraunt to Yoders is Sugar and Spice. It off Bee Ridge rite by I 75. Little bit more seating and good food.

Ya know, if its leaking at the gasket to change it your going to have to drain the fluid rite? If your going that far you might look into changing the filter in it. You would get a gasket in the kit. I think the last time I got a filter kit it was $8. I just looked up a 84 ford 460 F350 PU . It aint worth $8 bucks to fool around making a gasket is it?

I didnt have much luck with the D404 on my Kawasaki. I'm guessing funds short at this time so your looking for an alternative. I just ordered up a Shinko from motorcycle superstore for under $80 for my 2nd Gen.

I tried to do this from I 75 and University parkway exit. Its close but not perfect, but you can get the idea of where its at. is Linger Lodge[/url]. Lodge web site. Yoders

Hmm I would hope a C-6 on a big block, but you never know. Could be an FMX. How many gears? 3 or an overdrive? Lock up converter? See if this page helps you any. Also look under the hood if its a class C. There should be a "build tag" sticker. Should tell engine rear end type and gearing etc. I think its on the passenger side of hood when you open it.

It certainly wouldnt hurt I dont think. Its that "ounce of prevention" thing. Sounds like one is a little loose possibly. I can tell you dont forget the one where you plug your helmet in also, if you use that one. I checked and took care of everything under the fairing. And I still would get a "gravely" kind of sound occasionally. I figured out eventually it was only with helmet plugged in. I had missed the ones rite under my nose. Oh and DONT locktight the screws going back together. A smidgin of RTV will work fine.

Just last week someone had been saying they could make keys for the RSV. So I would imagine he could make a key for this one also. Well found this in a thread. Check this thread out. A member here Heartbeat seems to know quite a bit about key problems.

I sent a write up in so it could get posted here on our site also. Here's a link to one I have posted on the Delphi board. Converting over to the Mr Gasket 42s

I had 2 stebels on mine. Then the wifes car horn died, so I rescued one off the bike. I bought a sick speed horn off e-bay. Not an air horn but pretty loud. Dont look to bad either. Its mounted on the right side where the little meep meep horn was. Here is the post where I got the idea from.

Skid dont know if your asking me or someone else. But here is mine.

Dough man thats a tough lesson. No locktight on anything plastic. Now I was reading a post on here a few days back a fellow was repairng his fairing for simular fastener problems. There is a glue out there you can use. SO maybe you can glue them back in place and tap them out or something. I would suspect buying the front fairing may be cheaper to buy the bike. Over $1100 USD from what I just found.

I mounted one on the left in the cowl by your foot. Look at picture, there just under the cruise controler I think it is. to the right of the shift lever. Out of the way and semi-dry.

I have been thru the insurance racket where, like the Sport Bikes could not get insurance on a specific car. We traded years ago for like an 88 or so firebird (night rider) style. It was a V-6 car. But because it was in a "sports car" category the current company wouldnt cover it. It was a mess changing all my insurance at the time. So heres my thoughts on the sport bikes with high theft. first off they are high theft, why anybody would steel one I dont know but they are supposedly. I venture a guess they are probably the highest in accidents and claims, so if you eliminate them from being grouped in with everybody else wouldnt our rates go down? Many companies have rules about how many tickets, types of drivers, ages etc so why not eliminate what costs you money? Its just crazy if you read thru this or any thread on insurance, not a one of them says "hey they lowered my rates"

Skid I wanted to know what they would sound like before I spent the $40 or whatever for the V-Twin clamps that sort of hide the gap. So I used some staninless steel hose clamps. I ride it that way and with the P clamp mount on rear. Trying to convinence myslef I like them before I spend money on clamp I wont need if I dont stay with them. I look for some of the small heat shields like to keep your leg off the pipe. But smallest I have found is like 6"

Last I heard you were coming to the Gulf Coast in Fla. Things change and GOD has a plan. Praying things get going for you soon.

Reinharts are louder than the OEM Road Kings. Alot of guys like the RK as they give it a nice tone without going way loud. For me on a long ride the RK can get annoying. I put mine on, then in a few weeks if I get tired of the roar I can change back to the Yamaha muffs. I took a trip a couple years back with the RK muffs on. 2500 miles and when I got home I couldnt wait to change them back.

I would recommend just picking up a "signal" wire for your accessories and run them off a relay directly fused and powered off the battery. Most wires on bikes anymore just are not big enough gauge to run high draw stuff like heated gear for sure.

Don I just went thru this also. I have been with AARP Foremost for a couple years. Last year it went up like $80 this year about double that. No claims, no storms nothing. So I shopped hard. I also learned a couple things. If you have 2 bikes you can stack the insurance from one to another, if only single bike you cants, so dont pay for that service. Also something else on my policy I was covering when I called the lady at Dairyland she asked me if I had "good" medical insurance and if so why was I paying extra on this portion. I can look up what it was but I think I have in a post here not to long ago I started. Check out Dairyland. It was recommended here by someone and I checked probably 10 carriers and they had the least expensive rates for coverage.

I have thought a couple of times when guys get in this discussion about trying something. We use to have an ocasional problem with some wear issues on straight cut gears in racing transmissions. Didnt care about noise. But the gears would get hot spots and what looked like excessive wear. So we would take the gear face and mill or cut a couple small lines in them sort of angled from center to outer edge. Our theory was that it gave poil some place to collect and possibly cool/lube the gear. I wounder if anybody could try this with say a used basket and try. If you can get a thin film of oil on the gear face it should remove some of the face to face contact. Whats you all thoughts?