djh3

I changed the filter out. Then a few months later the pump died. Not related I think, then the whole filter thing changed. But looking back, if I was to do it again I would just mount it by the petcock.

I just used a pIr of stainless worm/hose clamps. I wasn't real fussy about the appearance. Also get a pair of adel (electrical wire clamps 3/4) and just use the brackets on mufflers and bolt to the bag rail.

I had a few more miles left in it. It was 3/32 which is close to wear bar. I left for a 7 day trip to mountains so wanted to make sure had good tires for trip. Man was I glad Sunday when we rode in rain from Madison Ga to the NC boarder.

Well when I get home and decide what Im gonna do I'll post up something. For me I didnt care for the speakers sound. I have molded ear buds so I found a post about having a 3.5mm plug in. Having a Bell Mag 9 there is no mount bracket that I could get already wired for plug in. So I mad mine.

Took me a couple xouble takes there to figure out what it waz.

Anyone replace a battery on a Sena unit. I looked up the project and it didnt look to tough. Reason I ask is I think mine has met its end. Yesterday we left on our trip. Usually it will last 10 hours or so. I wasnt 5 or 6 hours in and it died. So will see how it goes the rest of trip.

I just peeled a 777 of the back of my Victory tour. I think the miez were just under 6k. Mostly around town, one 12-1500 mile trip. For money wasnt bad. I went back with a Continental Conti-tour. Last Conti I had got me almost 10k. But they are more $$

Yea this whole API thing was/is new to me. I went to use my map making program TYRE and it says I have to have a google account, buy an API or give them a credit card for a "free" account. You get 200 hours of free use or something but they want a CC. How about you give me the time, and if I use it up, you shut me off until I pay. I really hate to give another internet access point my CC number.

Could be 12mm from the pic I'm looking at. But more likely its a 6 or 8mm. The suggestion of finding another bolt that threads in is good.

Man new tires take some getting use to. Got the new treads on the bike, new brake pads on rear and a fluid flush/bleed. First trip around block and to get out of the subdivision I have a couple round abouts. Man I thought the bike was gonna tip over. It almost felt like I was on a 1" ledge and tip over to the sidewalls was a couple inches. Sure wasnt ready for that. I didnt think the center of the old tire was wore that flat. LOL

That would be the place to start, ther rear. Look at the tone ring try to see if any of the "teeth" are bent or something stuck in them. Then check the pick up which might be had depending on how bad its hidden.

Or add you as beneficiary??

Well looks like it will at least keep your britches from getting soaked after a rain. My experience with upholstery shops is not much. I had a 90 Mustang GT rag top. I got 3 estimates around here to just install a top I had purchased. They ranged from $125 or so to over 300.

As a "see if it fits" maybe OK. But I would either weld it or get it welded or bolt it together. I built one for my RSV years back. I now use it for my Victory with a couple other modifications. I surely wouldnt trust my life to epoxy joints

How big of an opeing are ya working with do ya think? On e-bay I saw some round ones in the 2" range. I know they have rectangle ones too, just didnt look real hard. Although digital can be anoying, as the numbers are constantly changing. A "gauge" style for me would be more desirable.

Above the carbs is a "catch box". Kind of a place for oil vapors to settle. Only time I had problems with oil dripping from there is crankcase to full. Mine liked to be about half way on site glass. Anymore and it would push oil into the box and drip eventually.

I think the Aux can be run without the tape deck. I have not been under a RSV fairing for awhile, so may be off there. But how about a tach like this.

I have an xcell spreadsheet somwhere that you can use to pick what size you need and also what you put in.

So I'm up for new shoes on the Victory also. I went with a Shinko 230 in front. And a Continental Conti tour on the rear.

Cowpuc He is always up for a challenge.

I had this idea today at shop. You , you may get it to back out.said probably a hardened pin so drilling was out. What about and EZ out and back it out? Or if you can get a bit to bite on the inside of the pin

I have run front tires with tread patterns like that on a couple bikes and felt they were OK. For me the MC 2 was the best rear tire. I had a Dunlap E 3 when I bought the bike, and never felt comfortable with it in wet for sure. And it picked up a howl in corners after awhile. I ran a Shinko 230 I think it was and it was OK for the $$.

10-4 on the Kurry parts. They just aint like they use to be for sure. My highway pegs started flaking like Steve mentioned about 3yr after I put them on. By 5 or so I had huge chunks of chrome missing. So I wire wheeled them and painted them with a "hammered" type paint in a gun metal black looking color. Being my bike is black they sort of blend in. Naval jelly would be my other idea.

I use to get in the house when I was a teen and my step dad locked up the door and dead bolted it. LOL exterior hinges.

I never confirmed, but I think mine actually something got between the catch and the wire thing.