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A fellow on the Delphi forums has had his off for a very long time. I think he took them off because of heat. He lives in Az. Myself I dont think I want to undertake the project of relocating all that stuff. Cruise control, horn, relays just to mention a few. It would be easier to buy another set, take a hole saw and drill like 2" holes in the bottom half to get air thru than to remove them.

Its gotten pretty bad on the unsecured loads around here also. These guys just go around picking up every piece of any kind of metal and toss it in the back of a pick up. Never ever do I see anything tied down or tarped so it wont fly out. Police dont even bother with it because there are to many I guess.

Seller has watched to much Barrett Jackson. Maybe if he had paperwork showing why it was on a rebuilt title I would consider it. But not being up front about it, no way. Maybe contact e-bay and let them know.

He may be talking about when using the vacuum pump to bleed. I did see something about thread sealer on OEM type when bleeding with the pump. The Speed Bleeders should be OK as like you mentioned already have thread sealant.

Probably. The bearing buddies do almost the same thing as the zerk you have on the rear. Difference is it fills from the front. SO you pump grease in at bearing cap and it should pump grease all the way to the rear. But you still have grease forcing your seal out in the rear. If you pump more grease in it has to go somewhere, and sooner or later it goes out the seal. I would just hand pack them good and check them next winter or before the riding season starts again. Unless you put 40k on them this year chances are you wont have to pack them again next year, but it wouldn't hurt if you want to. Also wouldn't have a half tube of grease in the hub to get rid of either.

Bert: Note that is if using the narrower 130 size. If you run the 150 Shinko that rating of 71 is in limits.

Brown Angle, hey man where did you all end up hanging your hat? I see you location lists Waynesville. Thats a great area.

Check out the video. I think its the same kind of wheel. If your bearing is hand packed that should be plenty of grease. The way the fellow in the video talks the grease fitting somehow puts the grease in the area of the inside bearing. I dont think I would rely on that for greasing a "dry" bearing but if it is already greased and it is only for a refresh then maybe. Oh sorry by the way skip to about 5:18 in the video to get to where he is talking about the fitting.

4.6 is same motor they use in the mustangs too I think. So I could look over there and see what guys say. I had a van when I worked at the Dodge dealer off and on that had a miss intermittent. Ran the machine and it said it was a plug, so changed them all. A week later it was back with a miss. So guess who get to chase a miss for free now. Ran diagnostics machine and it said like #6 coil, so changed that one, 3-4 days later its back sme problem. So these folks are beginning to think I/we dont know what the heck we are doing right? Like 2-2.5 weeks into this thing and 3 or 4 coil packs it finally ran fine. I think what happened is one was going bad, fouled the plug. New plugs now it runs fine because of plugs, but because the coil was weak it didnt take long to breakdown and quit off and on then completely. Just happened that the other crapped out because they wee the same age I guess. Its a roll of the dice, but if you got 120K out of it and are going to keep it another 40k or so it might be worth it just headache wise to change them all.

Hmmm That I dont know. I dont recall having any wheels like that other than like a wheel barrow or yard trailer. OK looked up a you tube video. To me it looks like if you have taken the front and rear bearing and wheel seals out and have repacked the bearings by hand your good to go. The zerk is so you can give it a shot or 2 of grease next year without disassembling the bearing and inner seals. So my answer to your question is NO, if you have removed and repacked the inner bearing. Make sense?

Look for a PM I built a connector. I also built a homemade short helmet mic.

My general rule of thumb for wheel bearings is tighten until you get some drag on the wheel. You dont want the wheel to wobble inside to outside, but you dont want to have to use 2 hands to turn it either.So I spin the wheel while tightening it, when it get to where I like the drag feel I usually back it up on notch maybe 2 on the castle nut. Some nuts have bigger spaces in them so cant give a definate 1 or 2. (rereading your statement it sounds like your OK) AS for the grease zerk. I generally pump grease until I see it starting to come out somewhere. But I'm not sure if your talking about the bearing buddies on wheels or like maybe the spring perches and shackles. If its wheel bearing, you are servicing them now and repacking, so I dont think there is a need to put more grease in after you pack bearing. Those are more or less intended for boat trailers or for an occasional shot of grease in between servicing.

LOL Great Reminds me of when my son was learning to ride his bike without training wheels. We lived out in the country so not paved road in our area of houses where we lived, just dirt drives so was kind of ruff on the training wheels. Well one was really wobbly and ready to come off. So I said let me fix it and took them off to tighten up the bolts for the wheel and such. When I cam out of the garage to put back on he was across the complex riding like mad so I figured we didnt need them any more and stopped at trash barrel.

Yea I know. Sometimes your money ahead to just order the silly things instead of trying to build them yourself. I have used these for years at the race shop so I had them around. LOL I just went thru a fluid change on mine this week. I went and bought a $35 vacuum Mytee or whatever bleeder. Not real impressed. It draws fluid OK but when you take a couple pumps then you get all these tiny bubbles coming into the hose. They say this is normal and is from around the sides of the bleeder. Well then how do I know I got all the air out of the line if I'm getting bubbles in the hose? I would have been money ahead to just buy the speed bleeders. For you once you get the slave cylinder changed, try just opening the bleeder on the clutch and let it flow without any pressure (gravity feed) Once you get decent flow then pressure bleed should take less time and most of the air will be out.

So I wonder, would this "backfeed" from the passenger through the whole system? I wonder if wrapping either wire in say another piece of like split fuel line to help shield would help.

Cool I was going to put his relay in the mail today. Then I thought about it a few minutes while I was packing another up to ship and remembered we have a meet and eat next SAt. I'll just take it to them.

I think Vistion is the "backdoor" supplier for FORD. Kind of like Delco is to GM. OR Delphi use to be for GM

I didnt order a bleeder bag. I have been using a qt oil bottle I have drilled a hole in cap and have a piece of hose that fits secure on the bleeder. Goes in bottle then into waste oil jug. Probably serves same purpose, but I already had the bottle.

Sounds pretty short on the rears to me. I presently have over 17K on mine and just did the rotate inside to outside for probably another 5K anyways.

alwrmcusn: Which GPS? Looks like your mount very similar to mine for a Garmin 765. But which power cable are you using? I use the flat one that goes in the right side lower as your sitting on the bike. Its a bugger to get in and out without that box, so I dont know how I would even get at it to remove power cable.

OOPS somehow missed this Barry so didnt get things arranged.

Congrats on your trimming down. Have you tried a Craigslist search in your area? Als we have a few "second hand" bike accessory stores around. Folks are figuring out that gear is expensive and if it dont fit, well its no good. So there are some shops that sell previously owned goods sometimes straight out and will take a trade or will sell on consignment for you. I picked up a nice Firstgear jacket with the quilted liner from a guy for free. He had out grown it and blown the zippers out. $40 and a week and the lady that alters my work pants had it fixed.

I dont know. But I will tell you the intermittent audio buzz/click with the intercom has been a PIA. I have read just about everything I have ran across to try to eliminate it. Short of removing the intercom cables and rerouting them. Mine seems to get worse if steering is moved one way VS another, but still have a buzz if you intercom volume to high. I have pulled the connectors apart under the faring and cleaned and greased them and I dont think it really helps much IMOP. In your case it kind of sounds like the straw that broke the camel's back for whatever reason. Maybe just that extra bit of corrosion on a connector somewhere. Once in awhile I will plug in something on the aux cable and it will have terrible interference. Plugging and replugging dont help, and if I look close I clean the push connector and it will have just a smidge of ick on it. Piece of scotch brite and it seems to fix it.

This is the store on e-bay I got mine from. $33 for 2 fronts, 1 rear and a clutch bleeder shipped. SB7100S Front 2ea needed SB8125L Rear 1 ea needed SB8125 Clutch 1ea needed

I bought my reckless off e-bay. I called them and asked 50 questions on things long before I bid on it. After I got it I called them twice and they helped me out. SO I would say A+ on customer service.