djh3

Thanks Gary. Im glad you like it. I try to make a qualiy piece.

For whatever reason (I surely dont know) but the clutch seems to be a particular PIA to bleed. But the clutch on the FJ1200 I had in a legends race car was also and it had a "real" master from a VW beetle. Just is tough getting them to bleed.

Sounds to me like you cut the old plug off, connect the supplied wires to it and plug it in.

Be VERY careful if operating the clutch with lid off. It may spray fluid up and end up on the fairing or lowers. I take old towels or t-shirt and cover everything. You will probably have to turn the handlebars to far right to get the clutch resivoir level. DOT 4 fluid also. Try the pull lever down an tie off. Let sit over nite.

Best thing I can come up with was dirty contact pins on clutch switch. Once I unplugged it and reconnected it fired rite up. I hate when I cant find anything factual and firm. The start relay didnt have a strong click when trying to start. For whatever reasone I disconnected to clutch switch and hit button and relay felt more like it should. Plugged back in and Vroom.

Did you look here? From what I read you should have 3 wires to go to the RR and then 2 go to battery

You would have to put me up for a few days too. Its a LOOOONG drive. I hope you find someone. Its a project for sure, and a motorcycle jack certainly helps.

Too many to list for me. You need a 5mm allen to remove the side covers, saddlebags. 3mm allen for the fairing screws and remove the windshield. 6mm long ball allen works for me for the driving light bar to get the front fairing off. 5mm also to remove the gas tank.

What part in particular are you talking about? Is it the "plate" thing on the outside of the bag?

I saw it last night on news. WOW It looks like the link for video is down now.

I suppose you have to have a Harley branded extension cord to plug it in.

Best I can tell the 3 wires are at the R/R.

Glad I could help. Like we discussed I hate not finding something physical to blame it on. I am still researching a couple things it might be. But Im glad its up and running.

Up to the turn signals. If you have a light bar installed I can tell you its going to be tight. I ran my wires from the front forks up along the brake lines. I used small black wire so as to be concealed and small black zip ties and then just ran up the forks.

:sign yeah that: Here is the listing.

My rain gear is always packed on the bike. Living in Central Fla thats just the way it is. 30% chance is 70% you miss. The way the weather man has described it here lately is that 30% of viewing area may get wet. Here lately ther can not be a cloud in the sky and I take bike down to Wally World for something and I'll get rained on before I get home. And its a 5 min drive. A trip around town here if it looks bad I probably wont ride. If its a big trip say vacation I would prefer not to ride in rain, but OH well. Just be safe, if its a down pour and you cant see the road or your ridding on a road you should have a canoe instead, stop awhile.

I would suspect the first ones you have listed will hit the fiberglass lowers. I searched e-bay and watched for some Kuryakn offset highway pegs. they allow you to adjust them quite a bit to your legs. Mine were new in package but opened someone didnt like them or something. I gave about $60 or so for them. http://www.kuryakyn.com/images/item/Large/7993-6.jpg.ashx?width=576&scale=canvas

You may be able to contact a member in the Tacoma area and see if they could pick up your "birthday present" and ship it to you. But I can tell you shipping from lower 48 to anywhere in Canada is high for sure.

Or my hand anymore when I cut it.

My own rule is I have to rode a bike in that state. I have some Canadian provinces now I could add but whatever map I'm using you either get USA or Canada.

Blasphemy

That was one of my bitc#s when I got this bike. The cluts was so far out. My Vulcan had a dial on it and you could adjust the friction zone. But it was also a cable clutch. So I have just sort of learned to live with it.

I should think horn and passing lights on seperate relay. Maybe heated gear if you use that stuff. Anything else should be able to run off your rig there. I dont think a phone, MP3 etc would tax the circuit @ 30 amp relay.

I'm going with the "just bought" theory.

I would say yes. If you have to wiggle and jiggle the key to make contact it could be the tumblers just simple are not moving things. but I guess the other school of thought is it has to be moved around to clear out the corroded bits to make contact. If key turn free and in acc position works......me thinks the switch could be cooked.