djh3

I have the Utopia. I am about 5`6" or so. It works well especially on long trips.It has some adjustment as to height and forward. It will make your back sweat in the summer if you stay laid up against it. The pouch on the back is nice. the wife will put her cell phone or maybe the camera in it, some gum small type things lie that. also it matches the pillow top upholstery.

When might this be???

Prairiehammer---- I have done the same. My traffic connector has broken one of the little release clippy things. So to get it off I have to use a small screwdriver to push the metal tang loose. I got one off e-bay like $6. It still plugs in to the cig style plug, but the stinking traffic thing wasn't real accurate anyways. I didnt get the lifetime maps. But I have seen update maps for sale on my local craigslist for around $20, but I dont want to end up with a brick or just a blank SD card either.

Here is a brand spanking NEW 2012 in fredericksburg for $15K An 02 with only 20K break in miles asking $5900

Its hard enough to find accessories for a bike that just went out of production last year. Much less than one they quit making 16 or more years ago. Well unless its made in Milwaukee of course.

A couple years ago I put new sintered HH pads on mine as the others were GONE. first ride I took I heard kind of a buzz sound when using brakes. So I cam home and took all apart thinking I got something wrong. Put back together, same thing. for whatever reason these pads pick up the air holes or something in the rotor. I'm kind of use to it now.

MMMM Traverse City. cherries, Pinconning-great cheese, anywhere up north of lake Manistee if I remember is good. Mackinac fudge. but them b 52 mosquitoes when do they ever go away that its not 30 deg.

WOW If they say they dont see that coming they shouldn't be driving. Ask about trunk, see if its available and ask him if he modified the bracketry to where a trunk could not be reinstalled. Although I dont know if you could find that paint. Pinwall has a couple of "complete" trunks padding, wiring and all for the north side of $970.

Well at least he chose the right color.

Could be just the steering head nut needs a bit of a tweak. Also something expensive that may be shot is the rear shock. Look under the bike at the shock in the rear. If it is moist it needs a rear shock. going price for a hagon replacement is something like $480 plus labor to install. Its a pretty simple install most can do it if familiar with tools.

Sorry but I have not kept up with all the different V-max diff threads around. If I understand correctly the V-max will "bolt in" with some modifications mostly done by a third party shop. What they do I have no idea. but if it fits in, why can't a fellow simply put the ring and pinon from the Vmax into the RSV case?

I like my Garmin 765T. It IS NOT a motorcycle specific GPS.. But it works very well. It may be hard to find one as they have been discontinued for some time. You can have MP3 files on it to play, you can upload your own routes you make on either basecamp (I never figured that out) or I use TYRE a free program thats easy to use. It will plug into the RSV audio system but you can only hear it when operating in the AUX mode. So if you used it as an MP3 player and GPS it will give directions as you go and you can hear them. I use my phone for pandora and the GPS and its audible also as both run over the "aux" mode. It also has bluetooth capability so with a special cable you should be able to use your phone via the GPS and headset of the bike. Programmable GPS with an aux output are getting very difficult to find. A RAM mount is about the best solution to your GPS and phone needs. I have tried the knock off plastic jobs from e-bay and while they work for awhile eventually they get loose or snap off.

Good idea on removing the brake caliper and rotate wheel and start from there. Next I would check the brake pads. If you had them out or not. I know the RSV is terrible about uneven wear. Most of us run about 5k or so and then swap the inside to the outside pads. Loosely install the caliper (set it on with bolts in place but not tight) rotate and see if there is some interference or movement.

Actually this is the link for the Indian site. Not a bad looking one up bike. the more I see the new one Yamaha came out with BOLT It has kind of grown on me. This Scout certainly is more appealing to me than all the big fender fringe stuff on some of their other bikes. But thats why we all customize stuff the way we want.

Yea I dont know if I could hit the 3hr mark. They must have a short cut or two. As suggested in the write up here I also changed out the rad fluid and a couple other house keeping items. If you have the time for me its worth saving the $300. If I wasn't rushed I would probably do it for someone for around $150 or so + parts. Up on the air box there is some thin foam gasket things that supposedly seal the intakes horns coming in from the sides. they were junk. I had no idea how I was going to fix that when I put it together. So I figured out about whee they were going to sit, put some petroleum jelly on one side thin and some RTV silicone on the other after it set up a little. then put it together. Should seal and you can still get it apart when you need to.

I tried pretty hard for more than a few minutes to separate the back side of shaft from the diff. I figured it was a push in retained by spring circlip. Never got any movement I could tell so I left it alone at that time. It sure looks like it should come out though. Look here. Its an article about the V-max swap but 7 pic down tells about the drive shaft. Thanks Freebird. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1406%20%28Small%29.jpg

Perhaps the spacer is in wrong? Did you take it all the way out?

Kirby I get it terrible at that level off and on. I have noticed if I have IC turned up at 10 or so and she unplugs or plugs in its like an ice pick to the eardrum.

Best I can tell it should just pull out of the rearend housing. I cant see any snap rings or anything. I just had one apart, but I dont remember taking that end of the driveshaft out.

I would be afraid to use the razor blade. I just know I would slip and foul things up majorly. Credit card is my weapon of choice on that sort of thing. Usually wrapped in a paper towel to see it that will work first to keep from scratching.

I was wondering if ya could have it in Oct. But I guess I kind of knew why it was when it was. We have been kind of liking the NC trip in Oct to the mountains and occasionally it works out we get to see the colors. The traveling show thing is a cool idea. Make manageable groups to ride together, load the days route for up load in GPs for those who want it and go. There would be hurdles I'm sure. We normally ride a day like that with breakfast at hotel, a snack at lunch and then a decent dinner. others like the full on lunch meal.

I like it. I'm not a big chrome fan either. Takes time away from riding. You might try heating it some with a hair dryer some to soften up the sticky. Or you could just park it out in the sun here in Fl for awhile its been in the upper 90's and heat index 104.

Its funny. Back in the day when I messed with drag cars and race cars with mechanical lifters we adjusted them hot. As I can only imagine that is where you want to have the lash, is at operating temp. Now for whatever reason motorcycles now that you mention it are set cold to my knowledge. Part of it might be you couldn't get this thing apart fast enough to check them hot. Oh it will be hot enough to cook you while your trying to take it apart alright. If I buy another bike I am seriously looking at something with hyd lifters and non-adjustable stuff. Unlike the harleys that are supposed to be a hyd lifter then when something or another goes south you have to change them out to an adjustable push rod. I forget what it is now, but a buddy of mine that is versed on them was telling me about it. Maybe its a valve job around 40K I dunno. I just thought it wa odd the fix was to "cut" the push rod to get it out of the head.

Having read a lot of these "whining" threads here is what I have sorted out. If its at one certain RPM or speed usually around 35-45 mph range in 3rd or 4th its clutch (basket) related. If its constant at highway speeds it more than likely rear differential related. At your highway speed and it making noise say 60 in 4th, give it some throttle. does it get louder? Now at same speed just ease off throttle a little does it get better? then its probably in the diff.

It use to be that way with Tiger direct vs Comp USA. Then they bought out Comp USA and because they were same company had to charge sales tax. Dont be suprised if it gets changed here soon as the states are looking at ways to gain back lost revenue on online purchases.