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From what I have read and post #18 above it looks like your good. Dont you hate when you buy something brand new and in a week its junk. Batteries over the last say 10 yr have gotten terrible. I guess because they try to make them lighter and cheaper and the plates etc just wont hold up. Its bad when a "cheap" battery for your car is close to $100 and thats like 550 cca

OK I hate to go the KISS route but......... Are you using a bleeder bottle? Make sure there is a loop in the hose and it goes up hill before it goes in the bottle. this will help to keep from pulling air on when you release the pedal. If you can get a helper that would be good. Pump the pedal a couple times, then hold pressure on it. then open the wrench slowly to let fluid out, you dont need to stand on the pedal, just even pressure. Once its down hold it and close the valve. Repeat a couple times and check level. The master don't hold a lot of fluid. If your by yourself trying to do this its a pretty tuff trick, you can use a piece of board to push the pedal. I have a vacuum bleeder and its OK to get a draw through when changing fluid. But I dont trust if for a complete air free bleed. I did go and invest in the speed bleeders earlier this year and man does that really help on the clutch. I think maybe $20 all in on 4 bleeders.

Probably one of my favorite comedians. George Carlin also. I remember seeing a HBO special of his, it was probably an hour long show. I was so sore by the time it got done. Definitely an original. Peace to him and his family.

Post #4 Man I hope you get this sorted out. But I dont really miss the 4 e-mails a day. So I know your out riding some anyways.

Contact Steve M61A1MECH. He is a wiz on the trailer wiring and makes some plug in stuff. Even though he jumped ship to big red.

Mines listed in profile.

Sarges--Look at your rear shock. If the backend is wiggling and bottoming, I think more than likely its ka-put. You running any kind of pressure in it?

I did post a link for you to get started. I had a hard time getting around the site when I first got here also. you will pick it up once you surf around a bit. As someone previous mentioned. Most dealers are not very up on these things. they may se maybe 4 a year.

Joe if you use the link it will take you to the site. They have a drop down to select the color and size. Or use the search window on thier site and it will come up. I like the screamin yellow one. http://www.jafrum.com/Shop-By-Brand/Nolan-N44-N-COM-Helmets/Nolan-N44-Hi-Visibility-Helmet#

Safety wire them. Come from the last couple of holes around the screw head and wrap. They cant go anywhere.

Bronco, thanks for looking us up. Spend a little time reading around on your new ride and I think youll find its $12 well spent. Here is the post on the steering head. I know when I first started looking here I kind of found things hard to find, sections etc. So I'll help you out. also on your tracking if the tires are getting down towards the end of life the rears will start to "cup" sometimes one side a bit more and it will draw the bike some one way. Look at profile of rear from the side like from one saddle bag to the other close to floor. The Avons had some pretty bad times when they would split at or around the bead area.

Bolens, wernt they big in the lawn mower makin dept? I spent a little time in Michigan thumb area in early 70's. also a couple winters vacations at an uncles lake house on lake Manistee. He had a snow machine that was an Evenrude,a neighbor had a McCulloch I think it was. It seems everyone that made outdoor equipment, outboards or the like made some sort of snowmobile. shoot even John Deere and Allis Chalmers. One of my other uncles had an AC dealer and at that time they sold them 6 wheel ATV things that use to be on HR Puff n stuff show.

Is this the same helmet? For almost $40 less? Faceshield here.

One thing I can think of is you may have what we use to call "dieseling" or "run on" after you turn the engine off. Because the RPM are high and of course drawing more fuel it will want to run after the key is off. It will stop, but it just has a clunky pingy sound momentarily.

Fleet and farm should have some steel wool that will work. The fiberglass dont last long. Ask anyone that had the old cherry bombs. 3-4 weeks and they were like straight pipes.

I know of a fellow that worked for ski do I think it was. He was on a team that took care of the sleds they used in north pole and the like. Kind of like trucks more than sleds. Thats what this one looks like to me.

Provided the sync is good, I think it point to the idle circuit of carbs. More than likely it just has some sort of gunk in it from sitting. We use to take air filter off car, bring rev up and then close off top of carb with hand or a rag until it about quit. Then let it stablize out and do it agin. On the bike I would guess for all the carbs.

Congrats. I have been tearing up and working on my own stuff since I could drive/ride. I'm not sure I would have tackled that job. Excellent, now I hope you get a chance to get out and ride.

Bob I think they call that natural selection or something. Thats the problem we have down here with these exotic snakes these jacka$$ have had as pets and decided are to much of a pain to feed now, or they escaped way back during hurricane Andrew in Miami. They just caught one yesterday in a neighborhood over Tampa way 12 foot long killing neighborhood pets. they have no enemies here in Fla because they aint from around here.

Dale, it is a pretty simple job as the other guys have said. I have a cut off piece of 2x2 about 5" long. I put it under the kick stand, this allows the bike to almost be straight up. you need this for two reasons. It will drain all the oil out, and for checking the level. When you get the oil filter off, take a look up there and make sure the old black "O" ring is not on there. Believe it or not I have removed an old filter when I worked in a garage and figured I would just look at the filter. If the ring is on the filter I'm good right? Well someone prior to me had not checked the surface and sure enough one was stuck up there. Luckily for them it sealed up. So first time thru take a look. As has been mentioned no more than half way between the lines on the sight glass or it will push oil mist out and you will have a mess. When you put the 3 qt in, start it up and idle it a minute or 2. then stop and let sit a couple minutes. Recheck the level and finnish. Remember you will probably have to tip the bike a tad to the right to level it still. A lot of us use the Shell Rotella T-6 syn oil, some use the dino oil. I like the purolator PL14610 oil filter or L14610. They are a little bit longer and will fit and give you more filtering area. But thats another whole 1000+ threads you can read.

Youll go where your told! Just like me. Lol I lived up Port Huron way in a little town called Sandusky. Alpena use to be kind of busy when air base was there, but have heard since is closed its sort of dead.

I have seen those both before. But still funny. When I was a crew chief flying actually on my MEL was speed tape ( a metal version of duct tape sort of) 2 part epoxy, fuel leak stick (a putty like substance you could temp plug a fuel leak with) and clear helicopter tape.

Yea unfortunately, growing up here in western central parts of Fla as a kid and then moving to Oklahoma, my general education on snakes is DEAD. I think every poisonous snake alive in the US lives in Fla, and now we got a big problem with snakes that don't even belong on this continent, Pythons and Anacondas dumb a$$ thought would be a good pet. Really?? Oklahoma, only snakes I ever saw out there were either diamond back rattlers, Water Moccasins a couple sidewinders, everything deadly. Creepy slimy things, sort of like lawyers.

Could go the Kansas City and make the HD plant one of the days events. That should go well. lol

The end top two screws on the backside that actually hold the chrome piece on. I will put them in place, and set the other screws in the holes then push down on the chrome and tighten the screws from bottom up until I get to those 2. they are the last screws I tighten.