djh3

I have several different types of e-z outs. But I ran across a job a month or so back I could not get any of mine to work on. So I was in Home Depot and ran across these called speed out. they work pretty good. Has the required size drill bit on one end and the extractor on the other. Go easy on the reverse part so as to not strip it out

Check out this thread. This guy is the LED Guru in my book.

I mean heck if you wanted a shorter glass of cocktail, just pour less. Or was that meant for guests?

I would say the 3 biggest things I have read about are 1: rear shock leaking and dying= replace with a Hagon aprox $470 See pics for what a bad one looks like. 2: Ignition switch contacts burn up from overloading= By-pass relay available 3: Fuel pump quits= Replace with a Mr Gasket 42s aprox $50 for pump, fittings etc.

Usually the modulator is wired to the high beam. So you have to turn the high beam on via the handlebar before it will even work. also there is sometimes an optical "eye" to automatically turn the modulator on in daylight and off in darkness. I have had one on a couple bike and I just used a toggle switch so I never had to worry about the optical part not working. Switch is pretty easy, when it get dark turn the modulator off (straight thru)

As I found out when I got my 09 the recommendations changed over the years. My 900 Kawasaki was 7500 miles. So when I got my 09 I opened the book and it says 4500. Others have told me their say 02 says 8k. So for some reason it varies from year to year. Now that mine isn't under warranty anymore and I run the T6 and the longer purolator filter I'm going 6k give or take.

On the RSV (probably the TD also) the rears go first. I guess partly because there are 2 up front to stop and the weight. What will help you on the rears getting a few more miles out of them is at about 5-6k swap the pads from one side to the other. I do it about everyother oil change so maybe 8K or so. Your milage may vary.

Isnt FlyinFool the one that went hog wild with the LEDs on a 1st gen?

Thats been what I have seen. I have also made that mistake of not pumping the caliper back out. Scary as heck if you have to pump them bad boys when your not expecting it.

Road King or any of the FLH type mufflers will fit. You will need a couple clamps for the muffler. They run about $30-35. Two ways to go on brackets. I use just whats known as a "p" clamp. A couple bucks, or there is a plate type you can make. The P clamp is definatly least expensive. If you look around on craigs list you can find them for 20-30 bucks. Sometimes folks can try the local HD dealer and they have takeoffs they sell cheap.

ECK post the link to the map/route you made. I'll see if I can make it a GPX file. Then I can just shoot you the file.

Glad you got it fixed up. Yu dont happen to have a son named Bob in NC do ya?

Check out Jafrum.com and leather up. Both have a wide variety.

In the tech section is a write up on swap to a Mr Gasket pump. Then you wont have to worry about fuel pump. Cost is almost same as replacing just points. I did it for under $50. The points will run almost $40 if I remember rite.

What color did you use up front?

Boy I sure thought I saw a place on the google maps to export to a GPS. but now that I went there I dont. but I could open your route in TYRE and make a GPX file for you to import. Have you used TYRE? Its FREE

I used the supplied brackets, just loosened them up and attached whede OEM horn was. Relay is installed up behind it.

Definitely better than the beep beep horn.

I thought you just had to turn the phone when you downloaded them to get them straight. I too remember a couple ears there they had terrible nagging things on the Ultra bikes. Valve train something. Had to put new adjusters in

look at the picture of the bulb with the base tipped up towards you. Its backwards but if you read it it looks to say 55/60w. I ran a Wagner 80/100 and it was really nice as I could keep my modulator, but after reading some threads I got scared I was over taxing the wiring for the headlight. So I went HID. you appear to be safe with what you have.

I like the eyebrow idea. but all the light strips I have seen have black background so far and that would stick out like a sore thumb. So the other option would be to drill out each and every hole and insert the lights from behind, run the wires into the fairing and reattach the eyebrow. My alternative plan is to get the strip lights and add them down by the bottom of the fairing by where the clear lower piece comes off. So would a guy get in trouble for running white like a daylight running light?? I know its supposed to be yellows at front. I did mount up some strip LED on the bottom of the bags so they work as run/turn signals. Used a piece of plumbers strap I had,painted it and attached to longer bolts through the bag mounts.

Michelin commander 2

OEM size 150/80-16 is a 71 load (761lb) @ 42 psi the rear 150/90-15 rear is 80 load (992lb)@ 42 psi for tourmaster 230. The 777 150/90-15 is 74 load (827) http://www.shinkotireusa.com/tires/cruiser/touring

Contact Steve M61A1MECH He sells a pre wired plug and play out fit that goes under the trunk. Sort of looks like this on pictured.

Wont work for a second gen though.