djh3

NO I use mainly the phone (sometimes its pluged in to charge) or the GPS which is plugged in for charge. Or if I use the MP3 it is battery powered.

Guess I will wait a bit and see if they get back to me. I sent a message to them both to see what they said. I thought I had another noise filter in tool box somewhere. Maybe I will take another stab at looking for it.

I remember back in the day when you had spark plug wires I use to run solid core ones. Man did they play heck with the radio, and I installed some coil looking thing to eliminate noise. I had to install something like that on the 900 vulcan when I put a radio and stuff on it because it picked up a bit of buzz. that piece looked like an M80 with wires. Of course now I cant find anything at the Shack except the $15 job. Black box looking thin sort of like you described. think I'll go ahead and order the part. What the heck, if it buzzez like crap I can find a filter. Well sent a couple questions out to sellers on these 2 PSU This one and this one. sort of partial to the second one, it looks a bit more robust.

Only $275 from cycle gear. LOL [h=2]LFX27L3-BS12[/h]

Where do I look for "isolated" What is supposed to be isolated.

It would indicate a low voltage issue for sure. I would check connections first and clean them. The ones on the battery first and also the ground on the block of the bike. Also the pesky connections on the main fuse buy the starter solenoid under the left side cover. If it turns out you need a battery I got an AGM from bohannon battery

Those look like the ticket. Exactly what I was trying to find. the bootaroo works fine. What seems like enough extra volume to help the devices get "over the hump" so to speak. It adds a little bass and clears the treble up some. I dont know how but it just sounds better. My thought would be to maybe drill a couple holes in the battery door and feed the wires in and solder to contacts. Then cover it in heat shrink maybe to keep out moisture. (Bootaroo) and tie wrap everything under the fairing. Does this one match the same specs you are talking about? Have to wait on a boat ride for it, but what dont you any more?

So it sounds like it is simply the transmitter that is different. So possibly if you had a display panel, say 5 led lights, then the first gen transmitter should work. It must pick up 4th also as it will allow the cruise to be rengaged.

It puzzles me. Seems every few months someone posta a pic of their scoot, and someone says the antennas are on wrong side. Makes me wonder if thats why I have not had success with the CB on a trip, so I just dont mess with it.

One fly in the ointment. Where I live we dont have a Honda Car Dealership. lol However I did end up getting a "multi-pack from Autozone that had like 3 or so I can make work for the time being.

Have been using the Purolator regular or gold in the longer version of this filter since I have been back to motorcycling. I read a couple rather lengthy articles from "Bobs the oil guy" and a couple others. Best memory can serve the purolator was #1, Mobil 1 #2 and the stp or champion (wal mart brand) right there in 3rd. The Fram and Yamaha filters did not fair well in filtering or longevity. Paper would degrade and come apart. Purolator is a good choice.

Motiv: not necessarily looking to go Blutooth. And I dont own an I-anything. But I would like to find something to conver the CD player cable to something usable. My player has been out since Oct, and I just have not put it back in. Bob: what about this type amp. Connect inline of 3.5 aux cable and stash under the fairing. I dont have room for anything on handlebars.

I have rode that 997 from US 27 to Us 1 @ Homestead a lot. first part pretty open swamp until you get to the Indian casino @ us41. Then traffic picks up an gets a bit more congested. All of it 2 lane. Good mexican place there in Homestead something Toros I think.

Some pics might helps us in seeing what going on and maybe get an idea or 2.

That is wayyy more than I was looking to invest in this project. I mean heck I can buy a new boostaroo that is 12v powered for around $60 I was just looking for an inexpensive say under 20 fix.

Hmm sounds like someone is building a slave bleeding tool.

Not so easy. They do make a 12v model now, but its like $60. I read a bunch of ideas on how to knock the voltage down for the boostaroo, but then it get muddy as to how much of a resistor I need. Readon thread gave specs of something like 9 (amount I need to drop to)/amp=ohm But the spec of the boostaroo is not stated. So its a guessing game. I didn't figure it was much on that little amp that is run bu 2 ea AAAA batteries (they are pricey buggers when you find them) So I went with 9/.05 and got 180 ohm. Couldnt find a 180 ohm resistor listed at radio shack, but I think if you make a combo (100+30+50) and solder all together at one point that makes it what you need. The next problem would be making the connection on the unit. Maybe a piece of wooden dowel with contacts on the ends? They do make some simular board amps like the one I had linked with rheostats. Something like this. I kind of hate to but though had crossed my mind to remove the beloved tape deck and put one of these in if I found one to fit.

Yea Steve, thats kind of what I was trying to do. Get them over the other side of 95 and out of the Miami "city" traffic. Will have to say I have seen a few night shuttle launches all the way from over in my place. They are impressive. by the way, what are we shooting up. I didnt know we were launching anything.

Well after using the Aux input quite a bit I have decided that it needs a boost. Here is my issue. I use the Aux port (split with a y-cable so I can use more than one item ie:GPS and Phone). but to get anything to come over it seems I have to make it "play" from that item at full volume. Phone for sure as it tells me I'm goning to blow my eardrums out. It had to played just as loud when it was simply connected to the aux port by the cassette deck, so I dont think its because of the added wires. If Iuse my boostaroo inline it is much better and sound is better also. But that also means I have to find someplace to attach it and change batteries etc. So I tried to find a battery elminator or figure out a way to build one. Then I ran across this "mini amp" that by what I can read should fit the bill. All I have to do is put it in a raio shack project box, seal it and connect to 12v under the fairing and connect the y-cable. So can any of you smarter than me guys tell me if it will work? Here is the Boostaroo specs Input: One 3.5mm (1/8") Stereo Jack Impedance: 5K Ohms @ 1Khz Output: Two 3.5mm (1/8") Stereo Jacks Impedance: 5.5 Ohms 32 mW increase per channel @ 32 Ohms 12 dB boost per channel THD (Harmonic Distortion): less than 1.0% Frequency Response: 20 to 20,000Hz +/- 3 db Signal to noise ratio -110db

Although it involves a few toll roads (I personally hate them but some times are best option) look this one over. It gets you west of I95 and probably less traffic and congestion and confusion closer to Miami. Brake Pad is probably best versed in road options in this part ofthe state.

Can be a couple of things. Certainly contacts in ignition switch. You must have got some contact to get fuel pump to run. Turn the switch thru a few times, that may knock the corrosion off. Also look at the main fuse. Its up under the left side cover. I came home from a trip one time bike ran fine. Next day went out and nothing. Fuse was all corroded up on contacts. If you find you want a ignition switch by pass realy to lighten the load on the switch and make it live longer give me a shout.

Sorry for your loss. I too lost a good friend to prostrat cancer in Oct. I feel blessed we got to ride together the last 6yr or so. Always tough to loose someone close.

so how come the 2nd gen dont have a position indicator.

M61AMECH does a fine job of wiring up such things and makes them plug-n-play. I would drop him a note and let him know of your plans.

I saw this too. Didnt w have someone here that was chompin at the bit to buy one?