djh3

LORD I hope so. I cant see how he would last 10 seconds on stage there.

Before the HID I had a Wagner BP 1210 Awsome standard type bulb. 80/100w vs the 65/80 or whatever the OEM is.

WOW I would have sent you the pair of alum ones I made and have floating around in the garage for way less than that, if I would have known you really wanted the flat brackets. I used some alum channel I had from a sliding shower door. Maybe 45 min to an hour dinking around with drill and file. Poof Done. But when I got to the installing part I was like "why am I putting all these bolts in to just hold the muff from sliding back.

Angle grinder would work. Mark it with a sharpie and masking tape. Take your time, make a light line all the way down to start. Just sort of knocking the paint off so to speak. Step back and take a look at it. then if its OK take a few more swipes at it. then you can use grinder to bevel the edge. I would say if you used maybe some 1" flat 3 or 4 pieces with some 1/4 bolts would be fine in sort of a "ladder" type configuration. You could probably use angle if thats what you have.

As for headlight, I have installed an HID. think I gave around $35 or so for it a few years back. For the most part plug and play, although I had to wire in a relay, but not that tough. The passing/fog/driving lights present a bit more of a problem. About all the wattage you can pull is 35w. So bigger bulbs are out of the question. If you go to a halogen type with the smaller H3 type bulbs you have to watch they are 35 w and not 55w. The wiring for these lights is kind of weak, oh and your going to want to make sure they are wired thru a relay instead of the way most get wired from dealer. I bought a used pair of this type light housing, then later installed some CREE LED bulbs (70w equivalent) that I think work very well. Other option is probably the very expensive truck light LED jobs. Some have put the Northern tools LED work lights in, but I wonder how much light they actually put out. Only rated @ 150 lumines

I dont know why I think I need this. The CD player is great what I would call "around town" or if not going over night. If we take longer trips I have to dump the CD player to make room for necessary stuff like rain gear, clothes and the like. So I have watched off and on for the I-simple things to show up here and there. Yamaha thinks the dang things are made of gold and so does the folks that own them. I own absolutely nothing apple past the frit type in the kitchen. And have no idea how they work or you copy music to them or anything. Now the plug and play one Yamaha sells has some special made cables as I have been able to see and poke around. I e-mailed I-simple folks and told them I needed a i-simple gateway to connect to a c-bus. They informed me they have several, which car did I have. when I told them it was a RSV that was the end of any help, much as I figured. They dont want to help anyone back door they $200+ units from Yamaha I'm sure. If I can locate a female connector to work on the c-bus I think I can make the correct connectors so us regular folks could just buy the less expensive units and use them. Still get control off the handle bars as the Yamaha units. So I have a couple questions. I tried looking for a while tonight for a c-bus female connector without much success. I found a few cables with one male and one female, but if I am cutting the females off to make the adapter this gets expensive. Will a 13 pin din female connector work? It sure looks like the same animal. Second question is would I be able to sell a few of these things do you think? It would allow a fellow to purchase the gateway for around $80-120 and an Ipod for $20-60 or whatever you want to spend on it. Or just use your phone I suppose if its an Apple. And of course you would have to have the adapter cable I would build. I sure wouldn't try to kill the pocket books of folks like some companies do. right now I dont know what I would have to charge for the cables, because I dont know if I am going to have to buy $20 c-bus cables and cut them up, or I will be able to buy individual parts. Same with the plug that goes into the I-simple. It looks to be a standard like 22 pin flat double row job. I think I have seen them around, maybe even in computer parts like the power cords to the MOB.

I'd let him eat the brackets and mount them with the P clamps. Way Way off base. I made a pair out of scrap alum flat stock and it didnt take me an hour to make 2 with only a drill, a file and hack saw.

2000 miles or 30 months. But with the fuels we get now......... Its a bugger, but once you do it you kind of figure it out. Some have said that the long crooked needle nose pliers help out.

I think in the 3 or so years I have had mine and the forums I have visited and yaked on, 2 of the RSV/TD/V-max motors I have heard of self destructed it. One was in TX a fellow on Delphi helped another new fellow get his fixed after it just all of a sudden started making racket. The other was a 1st gen Tour Deluxe and kicked a rod out the jug @ 60k. $hit happens, heck I seen a guy unload new cars off the transporter and when we went to move it to the shop for prep for delivery it made so much noise nobody would drive it. Plenty of oil, just no rod bearings on 3 of the rods. they dont run well that way FYI.

So where is your wheel to wide to fit? To me it looks like you could have a car tire and it fit the front V shaped part. Is it the guide part on the bottom? I can see why now that I look up the owners manual for the chock. The recommended size is 17 to 22 tall and 3 to 5" wide. A 150mm wide tire is roughly 6". Soooo I would say there is some fabricating in your future to make it work. It dont look like it would take a whole lot. I would look at cutting the rear part of the chock up the center from top to bottom. then cut your outside tube or whatever it is there with the pin to allow it to be "opened up" to you required width. Then add some flat metal to the space you cut, I should think maybe 3-4 cross pieces to hold it together.

Look just like my 09's. But anny of the pillow tops look the same. I have many miles of enjoyable riding. And the wife really likes it. She likes it better the the $650+ Mustang that was on the Vulcan.

I put mine on the jack and removed the front tire. Depressurized the air from the forks. Removed the front tire, and then pulled the bolts or whatever you want to call them that are up in the bottom of the fork tubes that stop the oil from running out. Remove the valve cores from the input schrader valves. Put a drip pan under the forks when you pull the bolts. I just let mine drain over night. I suppose you could give them a shot of air thru the schrader valve, but I would be careful how much pressure you use as the max is 7psi for operation and not weight on the forks and you put pressure on it without those bolts in (I think maybe they are part of what hold the forks together) You don't want to blow them across the shop. Thats why I opted to let drain over night. When I serviced I went up a notch on the weight to 10w I think it was. I used Synthetic as thats what Cycle Gear had when I was there. Bad part is it takes just a very small smigin more than what comes in one container. I used a syringe looking thing I have to let the fluid drain from it into the forks. You cant force itin as there has to be a way for the air being displaced to get out.

WOW I like it. When Victory came out with the sour apple green or whatever they call it Cross Country I really drooled for it. Really sharp looking. Yours looks great if a fellow didnt know he might think its a newer Kawi Concours

Heres another info nugget. If you are using the balance beads it i recommended you use the valve cores with the "filter" It keeps them beads from jamming up the seat when you check air pressure. but as I have found out sometimes you can get them to fit into some valve tubes. Unfortunately if you say go to check your air pressure at the hotel for the days ride, and it gets one stuck in the seat you have to put pressure in to get the bead unstuck. Want to know how I know this?

I have managed to change mine without pulling the pump. Here is a link to some instructions. Also in tech section there is some listing for "over the counter" parts that substitute for the Yamaha parts. Fuel filter FYI is--Duralast FF3330DL Wix 33095 or fram G3606

When I did the shock swap, its maybe an hour job if that.

At $80 about 2 tire changes and you paid yourself for it. I use a 2x4 turned with 4 side down and a 2x2 and break the bead that way. Then good old tire spoons.

Sure seems that way at times. Kind of like when you go out for a ride say to the grocery store 6-8 miles from your house. It seems every crappy driver in the county is summoned to test your nerves.

Well I can tell you part of the story. I was a GI living smack dab in the middle of Tornado Alley in south western OK. Being of little income all I could afford was a mobile home at the time. Housing was tight, and stick house were for us out of reach financially. So a mobile home was what we had as we did not qualify for on base housing. Insurance was high, I actually think we may pay less now for a stick built CCb house in Fla with way more SQ FT. Our house was anchored with 6 or 8 large straps that went around the frame and also straps that went around the "box" of the house. I guess its all what you get use to. but then again look at the pictures from Joplin a couple years back. Sure was a lot of houses of foundation type piled up on lots too.

Depends on what someone would think a used one is worth. Much over say $150 with shipping, I think I would just pony up and buy a new Hagon. We all know the average life of one of these things is only around 40k or so. I sure would hate to drop $200+ and have it go south a few months later. Just my opinion.

Being colored it would be hard for you to match and reproduce. But a fellow with some lexan, heat and time could probably make a replacement. Try calling back and see if you can get a different person on the phone.

I put a 90 on the rear pointed to left (due to aforementioned disc) and the front has a 90 I think. The front is a 90 also. Instead of pointing it straight out to left or right it is pointed to right side, not on a 90 direct out but half way between centerline of wheel and centerline of axle. Does that make sense? If it was straight on a 90 you couldn't hardly get your nibs in there to do pressures.

So those would be the equivalent of the faux fins that cover up the leaking bugger plugs on the RSV?

Shmily: I just bought a pair of Bates with something called ICS or ISC something. Anyways its a cushion in the heal you can adjust. I like them pretty well. They are a side zipper boot, I'm not a big fan of the zipper sided boots.

No tan boots when I was in. Everything was black and polished. Well OK semi polished for us aircraft maintenance guys. But you could still tel the guys that rode. Same type marks.