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I will be watching this thread. I have about the same problem. In say a parking lot or slow I can be heard. At spead they say there is too much "woosh" to hear me.

While I never heard of "toque" I had always called it a ski hat or beanie. They guys from North Carolina I worked with for some reason think its a taboggin. And Im glad someone mentioned mosqutios

If you have been running the "recommended" pressure in the owners manual or in the trunk lid, the tire has been under inflated. Typically the RSV comes with either the Dunlap E3 or I think earlier may have had a Bridgestone. My manual for an 09 shows 36 to 41 depending on loading. Most fellows will tell you your pressure needs to be maybe 2 lb under max unless loaded and 2 up, then need to bump to max. I ran my Michelin Commander 2 at 40-41 and got better than 17k out of them.

What are you using to pump them up with? Checking air with? Is there any oil possibly running down the fork tubes showing air loss? Maybe the schrader valves are bad. I belive they are the same as "short" tire valve cores.

HMm not that I know of. Will do a little looking around though. Thanks for the idea. I installed a relay on the horn today. It solved the horn going off after I unlock the door, but I can hear a relay under the dash clicking like crazy until I start the car. LOL And tonight I noticed the headlights flash too. Never saw that before.

Or replace it with a solid state job that wont give you any more problems.

If your talking about the "passing" or "fog" light mounted up by the headlight. The only place I know of is Yamaha. Nobody else seems to make them. for the Tour Deluxe a couple places do, but those will not fit on the RSV. If your talking about some others I have some small 2" diameter LED jobs I like. Mounted them down on the front crash bars.

My 02 Durango has had this annoying problem of a couple years now. The key fob unlock has died on both fobs. I have changed batteries and still dont work. So sometimes when you unlock the door with the key the horn goes off like someone is breaking in. Usually I can quickly turn the key and relock the door and it will stop. But more and more frequently you have to actually start the car. It seems to be getting more and more frequent of the horn going off and is starting to really bug the wife. So looking around the Durango sites the info I pick up is it could be a couple things. One is some kind of time delay module, it controls the slowly dimming interior lights, the headlights staying on for a few minutes after you pull in the drive and shut car off and a few other things all of which seem to operate normally. Its somewhere in the $300 to replace, and of course if you buy one its your should it not fix the problem. The other is some other magical black box the runs like $150-180 buck with the same problem if it dont fix it to bad. So chased a few wire diagrams, and found what should have been the signal wire for the "alarm horn". Disconnected it at the body harness and pulled from connector. Dang horn still went off. So I guess it either wasn't or it was up stream of the signal going out. So next idea is to disconnect the horn. Now I live in Central Fla where we need to wake up northern visitors driving quite regular. So I really need the stebil working. My though was to disconnect the horn, but wire it on a realy the gets energized after the car is started. Do you all think I can simply remove the "signal wire" run to relay, then a "key on" power source for relay and complete the circuit? I'm thinking that should eliminate the horn just going off, because it would not have power at the relay.

PHEW Glad someone else told him about those scotch locks. They will eventually cut right threw you wires. I did the same thing a few years back. For me the hard part was I had to build resistor/diode set up as the lights I had didnt have the 3 wire deal. The fronts I just used a piece of flat alum I had to mount the lights to.

The piece Bob has is the round stub sticking out in one of those pics. It llows any standard type drink holder to then be used.

Sent a PM. Hope the folks can get you some info.

H-4 As far as a halogen I like the Sylvania BP1210 I think it is. Its a 80/100w bulb. It says "off road" but I figure thats where Im lookin part of the time anyways. lol

"at high risk for stroke" I think I would have had one when the parts were in middle of road.

I liked the interstate version with small fairing and bags. Probably because they didnt have all the do-dads and was priced so close to GW why would you? I looked at a couple before I got the RSV.

Yup some have run the rear tire as a front. I think if I remember correctly you need to run it oposite direction of what it would be run on rear. I ran the 130 on the front and I thought it helped the handeling for me. At any rate I got over 17k on the set and think I could have got more, but had a trip planned and wanted to make sure had plenty of rubber.

I am running a HID in the 6000 color. Brite white maybe a very lite blue hue to it, but not so you would be distracted.

Glad your able to tell us about your escapade. Sorry to hear about it.

V-Twin I would bet a months pay.

Can you take a piece of metal screen and fold it over and use some safety wire to hold it to make a screen?

I had to do some research on this same subject for my bro-inlaw the other day. Most auto parts places have a "repair kit" you can flare a new fitting on.

I would start with the basic of where you have yourself discovered some issue. Clean all the cables, both ends. The battery ground @ battery and also on the engine block. Add a little dielectric grease to hold off corrosion. Then the positive end. Battery end of course, but then it runs to the solenoid on the left lower side by side cover and low by exhaust. Then there is a positive cable runs from it to the actual starter. While your in there check the 30a main fuse located in same area. I came home from a 3500+ mile trip from Fla to Canada and back. Got home and parked the bike in garage. Ran like clock work. 2 days later went out to start and go to store and nothing. Could get dash light but nothing else. Hit button and all would go dead. I charged up battery and same thing. Come to find out the corrosion had got so bad @ the main fuse area it wouldn't allow enough juice to flow to run. Cleaned all that stuff up and popped a new fuse in.

Thats a bummer. I will keep an eye out.

I guess I could take up the same attitude for him and his S-10 pick up next time I'm in my big ole Dodge 3/4 Diesel. If your holding me up I'll down shift and get thru it. LOL

Something like this comes to mind. Right on top of dash as mentioned.

I guess it all depends. When I was working in the Dodge garage our replacment and oem batteries were Interstate. We had batteries on rite off the truck were weak. I supose you can get that with anything. On the 3 batteries in just a couple years, I would be looking @ the vehicle. Either something is up with the charging or there is some kind of harmonics going on killing them. Cycle Gear sells a lithum battery thats suposed to be awsome. But they are not cheap.