djh3

Cover your bases. Contact Yamaha yourself also. Make sure they know you have had it back multiple times. I have had some friends that had intermitent problems with something on a car and the dealer keeps "fixing" it until out of warrenty. Then your hosed.

I just got Y cable and plugged it in under the fairing on the right side where the cassette deck plugs into the rest of the audio stuff.

I hve mine lowered 3/4" I measured mine from top of the tube to the top of the triple tree. OEM setting is fork all the way down in triple tree, there where the air cap is. So thats where I measured the drop. Dont guess it matters, just so its same on both sides.

first guess would be its getting moisture in the connectors under the fairing. Dielectric grease. But I agree, make the dealer fix it first if you still have warrenty.

I have many a mile on the US 27 south from my place here in Sebring to Homestead. I almost always turned off there at 997 and went by the big casino in the middle of no where. LOL Slow going once you get to 997 and US 41 crossing though, lots of big trucks and narrowish roads. I see by your map I go a different way down. I cut over right where 997 starts there.

I have a splitter installed that runs to the same place as the aux on cassette deck. Under fairing.

Everytime I see this thread pop up I keep trying to figure one out. Still no luck.

Phone connection is via bluetooth. The GPS has a 2.5 mm jack that feeds the mic. Now I will say I have not tried mine without the phone its self plugged in to the aux input to listen to pandora. So possibly with the jack plugged in forthat somehow it buggers the thing up.

Was sorry to hear about you. Here is a page of attornies up your way. You can take a look see and decide. I put in "north carolina motorcycle accident attorney"

Allen head bolts in bottom of forks.

Sorry to hear this. Prayers sent. And I dont think he has been in place long enough to even get settled yet.

A large syringe from like fleet and farm they have for large animal vacinations.

I will be watching this thread. I have about the same problem. In say a parking lot or slow I can be heard. At spead they say there is too much "woosh" to hear me.

While I never heard of "toque" I had always called it a ski hat or beanie. They guys from North Carolina I worked with for some reason think its a taboggin. And Im glad someone mentioned mosqutios

If you have been running the "recommended" pressure in the owners manual or in the trunk lid, the tire has been under inflated. Typically the RSV comes with either the Dunlap E3 or I think earlier may have had a Bridgestone. My manual for an 09 shows 36 to 41 depending on loading. Most fellows will tell you your pressure needs to be maybe 2 lb under max unless loaded and 2 up, then need to bump to max. I ran my Michelin Commander 2 at 40-41 and got better than 17k out of them.

What are you using to pump them up with? Checking air with? Is there any oil possibly running down the fork tubes showing air loss? Maybe the schrader valves are bad. I belive they are the same as "short" tire valve cores.

HMm not that I know of. Will do a little looking around though. Thanks for the idea. I installed a relay on the horn today. It solved the horn going off after I unlock the door, but I can hear a relay under the dash clicking like crazy until I start the car. LOL And tonight I noticed the headlights flash too. Never saw that before.

Or replace it with a solid state job that wont give you any more problems.

If your talking about the "passing" or "fog" light mounted up by the headlight. The only place I know of is Yamaha. Nobody else seems to make them. for the Tour Deluxe a couple places do, but those will not fit on the RSV. If your talking about some others I have some small 2" diameter LED jobs I like. Mounted them down on the front crash bars.

My 02 Durango has had this annoying problem of a couple years now. The key fob unlock has died on both fobs. I have changed batteries and still dont work. So sometimes when you unlock the door with the key the horn goes off like someone is breaking in. Usually I can quickly turn the key and relock the door and it will stop. But more and more frequently you have to actually start the car. It seems to be getting more and more frequent of the horn going off and is starting to really bug the wife. So looking around the Durango sites the info I pick up is it could be a couple things. One is some kind of time delay module, it controls the slowly dimming interior lights, the headlights staying on for a few minutes after you pull in the drive and shut car off and a few other things all of which seem to operate normally. Its somewhere in the $300 to replace, and of course if you buy one its your should it not fix the problem. The other is some other magical black box the runs like $150-180 buck with the same problem if it dont fix it to bad. So chased a few wire diagrams, and found what should have been the signal wire for the "alarm horn". Disconnected it at the body harness and pulled from connector. Dang horn still went off. So I guess it either wasn't or it was up stream of the signal going out. So next idea is to disconnect the horn. Now I live in Central Fla where we need to wake up northern visitors driving quite regular. So I really need the stebil working. My though was to disconnect the horn, but wire it on a realy the gets energized after the car is started. Do you all think I can simply remove the "signal wire" run to relay, then a "key on" power source for relay and complete the circuit? I'm thinking that should eliminate the horn just going off, because it would not have power at the relay.

PHEW Glad someone else told him about those scotch locks. They will eventually cut right threw you wires. I did the same thing a few years back. For me the hard part was I had to build resistor/diode set up as the lights I had didnt have the 3 wire deal. The fronts I just used a piece of flat alum I had to mount the lights to.

The piece Bob has is the round stub sticking out in one of those pics. It llows any standard type drink holder to then be used.

Sent a PM. Hope the folks can get you some info.

H-4 As far as a halogen I like the Sylvania BP1210 I think it is. Its a 80/100w bulb. It says "off road" but I figure thats where Im lookin part of the time anyways. lol

"at high risk for stroke" I think I would have had one when the parts were in middle of road.