djh3

The are wired on their own switch thru the same relay the oem passing lights are on. I have since discovered that wasnt a great idea as the passing lights have to be on for these to work also.

I added some CREE 35w jobs down on the foot gaurds or whatever you want to call them.

As a general rule of thumb for me anywho. Anything I add or plan too, I stay as far away from altering the bike-car-truck whatever. Maybe this comes from trading vehicles in to much when I was a GI and burned thru cars every couple years. I will make a bracket/mount to adapt said product to my application, but try to leave the vehicle unmolested.

Looka to much like the 1970 something model a fellow had in the club I belonged to in Oklahoma. Not everything from the 70's is cool and grrovy an needs to come back. Remember disco and platform shoes? I rest my case.

You will need a 2x4 or suitable substitute to "level" out the bike on the side stand to check correct level of oil. Put the board under the kickstand, drain oil. Change filter. Last change I used a mobil1 M110. Purolator was popular but changed the design and now they will not work. There is a thread around about the problems with some of the filters we like to use other than the Yamaha one. Shell rotella T6 for a synthetic oil is popular if you want syn oil or the rotella t5 I think is the dino oil. Any oil that has a JSAMO rating is OK for wet clutch. The T^ is like $20 a gallon at Wally World. On the right side of the engine (forward and lower) there is a site glass. Do not fill more than half way when your all done withe service. It blow excess oil in to the air box and then it will make its way all over the top of the engine eventually. I think about 3.2 qt with a filter is what is recommended.

I can tell you that while building the by-pass relays, there have been several times I get one started and then I get the "oh @#$%" and have to un-solder the wires. Partially why I changed my assembly process.

Make sure if both ends are closed IE have a connector on them, be sure to put your heat shrink on first to eliminate having to go over a connector or take one apart.

Allways had good luck with this stuff cleaning carb parts. +1 on the old nuts and bolts rattle around clean method. Will knock a lot of the stuff loose and get out. Then you need something to soften up the rest and get it mobile to get out of tank. As far as the vent not getting clogged. Find a wire that will fit in and push in the tube. When coating is done you can just pull it out.

OH boy AN FB6 with woodgrain inserts like the old station wagons.

Nah Speedo is meerly a suggestion of aprox speed. I know mine reads about 3-4 mph less than gps. So round figures I go five over. So far no problems.

And folks think a 1700 voyager is hot under you. Ha

Yup And your supposed to run several large glasses of water thru it rite after you change also to get any loose bits of charcoal or whatever they use in them out too.

Ya know my mom use to have a block of bees wax in her sewing box. I know partly she used it for marking material. but come to think of it I bet she used it on some zippers too.

Check your rear control panel. Make sure the volume is up for them to hear. Beyond that how high are you running the IC volume. It is different from the radio volume Without earbuds I have to run the IC volume about 12, with ear buds about 8. Next would be checking connections and cleaning and applying dielectric grease.

I thought about looking for a pair of supertrapp mufflers for the HD and put them on. You can "tune" how much roar you want with them. But them dudes are high. And dont find any used worth buing either. So I'm staying with the OEM and swap out when I want to deal.

Ya know as a matter of fact the zips on the chaps could use a little lubbing up.

I dont know a whole lot about the early (prior 2005) tour deluxe. They might call them a different name. Anyways I do belive they had like 22mm carbs vs what 2nd gen stuff has. I would guess the ignition is a bit more revy due the the EPA regs that came around later.

Ahhh I never could get that Garmin stuff to work rite for me. I started before I had the GPS making routes on the microsoft streets and trips or whatever its called. Then when I got the GPS I learned about TYRE. It was similar to the way Streets and trips worked so I guess for my feeble mind an easier transition. You use to be able to use goggle maps and make a route and import. But now they have changed that all up and have a "new version" and I dont know if you can still do that as I have not tried. Actually google maps was pretty easy. Put in start and end point and drag route to roads you wanted. TYRE works kind of that way still.

look up the part numbers on them and google them. You may have to go the HD parst site but you can find out if it is a cat muff or not. Only like a couple years had them unless they are calif models. I think it was 2010-12

Holy crap that must be and OLD jacket. They aint put metal zippers on jackets for like 15 or more years. LOL JK man I got my brothers old quilted lined motorcycle jacket I keep around. I guess just because it was his and I looked up to him. Some how the thing has shrunk over the last 10-12 years cause it dont fit anymore.

My CD player has been out for a year now. For the same reason, I needed the space last year when we took the bike on vaction. It just eats up a ton of space in there. When solo I have run the CD player and its nic. But with pandora on my phone I can listen for hours and not hear the same song. Have been thinking about investigating the i-pod thing off and on. Just dont know if I can make myself drink the apple cool aide

I cant even plan past next week.

Hmm A red line on a tach never prevented me from over revving. When the valve springs float out, now thats different. The FJ 1100 and 1200 had kind of the same thing going on. The 100 rev limiter would hit like 10,000 the 1200 motor was 10,500 or 11K Atleast thats what we found with the legend cars that run that motor.

As billy Crystal says "You look Maarvooluous"

Here is a link to Mapsource if you want to try to use it.