djh3

I think my mpg goes down with the RK. Probably because I have a tendancy to wick the throttle more. Mid 30's or so with oem and lower 30's with RKs. But not enough to be a definate yea or nea one way or another.

I am guessing on black pipe, not PVC type.

Since the advent of the silicone sealants I pretty much use them to hold all gaskets. I have yet to find one that has caused corrosion on alum. Maybe Im just lucky. (doubt that) As long as you dont go nuts with the stuff I figure it cant hurt. Now the old brown permatex stuff, Id break some fingers if I found someone using that on anything I own.

I will see if I can find the source I got mine from and the part numbers.

Might try the tie the handle back and let it sit deal also. This will sometimes let any bubbles work thier way up if thats what it is.

Hmm I had 17k + on mine here in "sunny" Fla and dont recall any problems. We do get quite a bit of rain at times.

Yea if the fluid for the brakes and clutch look like coke colored it needs changed all the way around. These bikes use DOT 4 spec fluid also so be careful what you get. Speed bleeders are a good investment if you plan on keeping the bike. Makes the job a hole lot simpler.

I was going to also say the back uneven is common. Fronts first I have heard or it. what color is the fluid in the reservoir sight glass? when was the last time it was changed out and bleed thru? I would get an old tooth brush or similar soft brush, some brake clean and remove the caliper from the mount. Take the pads out and clean the exposed part of pucks and what you can get at on the caliper. If pads are uneven maybe flip them around. Drain and bleed the system thru. Could be there was some air bubbles created while you pushed the pucks back. Doubt it but it is probably worth the $4 or whatever to bleed it out with fresh DOT 4 fluid.

The other thing is if its an 87 royal this is in the wrong place for educated help. I stopped to look because it said "2nd gen" But electrics to start with is basic same ole stuff. If you are shorting across the starter solenoid and get nothing, you do not have enough voltage available at the component. So either power wire connections or ground all the way thru. IE: at the motor, at the block at the battery at the solenoid etc

You know, come to think of it the new voyager is one of the few bikes I have not seen triked.

This bad juju has to quit.

http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/mcy/4992027273.html http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/mcy/5048214640.html Just a couple I found.

Is'nt this what everybody was afraid the NSA was doin?

The key being able to be removed, to me sounds more like a tumbler problem (lock portion) than the electrical part of the switch.

Around town I use the speakers. On a trip Im going to be running 60+ for any time, I plug in ear buds and away I go. I wear earbuds in the helmet with intercomm speakers also.

Here is the easy way. Plug and play. I can also make a Keyless version if thats how you want to go.

With our known problem of the ignition switch weakness, I sure wouldnt add any extra load thru it.

Lightning is strike!!

Mike the entire headlight assembly is on a tube frame deal in there. Could it be it got pushed back? I can take mine apart and get some dimensions from something not movable, say the triple tree or something.

Ring and pinions weather in a car/truck or whatever will develop a wear pattern. sometimes this causes whines. Yours could have been bearings going south, although I dont think I have ever heard of that happening on the RSV or Tour Deluxe. Good reason to keep up the annual change of the diff oil and grease of splines when changing tires every couple years.

Sure seems this month has been awfuly rough on out VR folks.

I dont know much about the first gens, but have seen a couple for sale for parts under $1000 for a complete bike if I remember rite.

I was thinking the same thing. Almost scares me to go ride. Hoping for a speedy recovery.

Shoot me a PM when you get a chance. Ihave some pics and info I can send you. When you get the floorboard off and that plastic cover off the fuse is sort of hidden behind the solinoid. I came off a 3500+ mile trip with no problems. 3 days later I went out to start to go to store and nothing. Fuse was corroded and cruddy looking. I OHM'd it out and it had continiuty but had resistance on it, so must have been enough to not allow starter to work.

First off do you have any power? Main fuse is located left side under the side cover and behind the left floorboard. Dont just visual the fuse, check it with an OHM meter. I had one go bad and looked OK but was cruddy looking. I OHM'd it out and it was bad. Do you get nothing with the switch "on" I can tell you how to jumper the switch to test to see if its bad, but bike will only roll over not start. You have to create a jumper harness for the ECM to make it run. But it would tell you if the switch is junk. I do make plug and play by-pass relay kits. See ad here.