djh3

Not particularly. I looked today and found quite a few on e bay for around 280 and a set for as low as 240.

I made some of the by-pass with the key on aux wire. it should be a wire off the blue wire in the relay. You can tap into that wire and draw power. If you use the piggy back connector off the cig plug I dont think you would have any problems. Good luck if you need anything I can help with drop a note.

Watch the main fuse for corrosion. Down where its at I guess it collects a lot of crap and moisture. Then it corrodes the fuse. Sometimes they will look OK but resistance gets high.

And to think, they just about ran him out of town when he was a kid. Guess they dont mind him so much if $$$ is involved. He was a piece of work. I meet him in his late years.

Under the right leg fairing is, Cruise control, Carb Heat, Aux DC connector fuse (I think they mean the one under the seat) Aux Jack (fairing) audio system. Under the left side cover is, Top left back up fuse (odometer and clock) Rad Fan, Headlight, Signals, Ignition PG 8-33 owners manual

If you have one of my by-pass relays I can tell you which wire is "key on" and you can tap into it. Other wise maybe the power for the passing lights under the fairing. Or under the seat there is a white connector that is key on power. Easiest without the by-pass is probably yhe aux plug under the fairing. Just run a wire with a piggy back 1/4" connector

I had one pop off when pulling the fuel line. I just ovaled the end going into the petcock a very small amount to cause interference. Add a drop of red lock tight and no more problems.

OK I though maybe they could be re-hardened after being reground. So if I understand you right the shim sort of has a coating like an M&M.

Here is a pic of a tire I sadly replaed @ 1400 miles. I hit something and it went flat. I was going to patch it from the inside, but once I got home and looked it over and saw it was much long cut than initialy had thought and being it was in such a way I thought acceleration would may be rip at it I replaced it also.

A couple years back the guys on Top Gear had one of those things for a "track day" car. So with all the rig a morrow Polaris had to go thru with the new vehicle they just came out with how is this thing going to be rated?

I have speed bleeders on everything. Its a PIA to get a hose on the clutch anyways. I loosen it up and finger tighten. Install hose then use a small pliers if it needs a little help to loosen.

I'm glad someone chirped up. So If we have say an over abundance of 300 shims can they be resurfaced to something more usable. I dont know seems the 280 to 165 range comes to mind.

Not that I have done that, but I can assure you, you are not the first. I have to read the "how to change the rear wheel" thread about every time I have mine off to ensure I get assembly correct. And that is one thing mentioned is correct spacer placement. glad your up and running. Last year after about 3 weeks with a brand new tire I had a flat coming home one day. I plugged it and was going to take it apart and patch from inside. when I got it off I decided the way the foreign object cut it I would just replace the tire. 1500 miles on the brad new one ouch.

just looked. Got just about everything around that, 255, 265, 270, 235. figures right? Depending on what kind of dealer you have close buy the shims fit a number of different types bikes. Honda CBX CB1100f Yamaha fj1100 & 1200

The Hagon is a good replacement I think for the money. The OEM is a roll of the dice if it will last 10k or 80k. The Hagon is rebuildable. When you install I recommend do it so the clicker (adjuster) is accessible from the right side of the bike. That way when parked on side stand you can have a bit more room to access it. They do certainly ride a bit stiffer than the air shock.

MMM Frankenmuth. There use to be some good mom and pop restaurants there back when I lived in Sandusky in the early 70's

I dont think so. SOmetimes I do, sometimes I dont. I can tell you in the fall in high concentrated motorcycle areas sometimes you just cant do it or your tuckered out from it. LOL My favorite is when the cruise is connected and I come across some of the other brands of touring bikes, I like to give them a wave up high with the right hand. Does that make me bad? LOL

nd gen I use a 2x4 piece and slip under the side stand. Makes it pretty level.

Could be a bolt or tab handing down and upon compression hit the tire. I would check and see if any markings/damage in bottom of treads. See if the tread blocks appear to be chunking and coming apart. Definitely look up in wheel compartment and see/feel around for something protruding. Ride it for awhile and keep close eye on it. Say mark side of tire and photo it. Then in a week go to same spot and photo again to see if any worse. Keep tabs on it and see what you think from there.

Yea and pattern is big too. They dont exactly allways say its a pencil beam or a wide beam etc. And I dont know about you, but lumins other than bigger is better theroy..........

Road debris. Inspect, see how deep and how far. Hard to say with just a pic but dont look too bad.

Might throw some seafoam in and synch carbs. Are you getting and carb overflow on floor after sitting, say over night?

Yea did some reading. 2015 will come with cruise. Dont think I really want to go backwards and use throttle lock type deal.

A buddy of mine bout the Strat a couple years back just before a long trip we took from NC to up by Toronto. He never lacked keeping up with my RSV or the HD Soft Tail that was along. I liked the bike. I really think IF Yamaha goes back into making touring bikes, this will be the format they use.

The 900 vulcan had holes under the floorboards. I guess manufacturing pickup point or something. Anyways on this tab under the boards was a hole and guys were taping them out and putting soft grade bolts in them for the same effect. 1/4x20 soft bolt from hardware store about .08 each.