djh3

Hmm may have to look for it next time I need wash. So far I have had the best luck with Bike Brite. Tried the S 100 stuff and didnt think it worked as well. I have about a half galon of bike brite to go thru before I worry about it. I dont wash it a lot. Mostly just the spray n wax stuff.

Starting to point to connection. Possibly ground bad. How does the back of the connector look. Seems I remember a post here a week or so back a fellow had a connector the wires looked heat damaged and was giving him some problems.

Couple ways you can protect those parts. Disconnect battery, unplug the computers and you should be good to go. Discon the battery should do the biggest part of trick.

I have a pir of Nelso Riggs and a Tourmaster. Both 2 piece deals. Had them for like 7 yr now and still work well. They can be hot inb90+ weather. Sometimes you just have to decide if the rain would be a refreshing rinse. The PVC type gear is all I have ever had, so its what I have had luck with.

Quite a few years back Boston Whaler had a comercial about how their boats were made to no sink. The front part of the boat was sawed off and it srill floats up the river.

Me thinks maybe it aint the first time he's done that.

Yea the E3 when it wears seems to get a "chop" pattern in outside edge. Sort of feathered look. My biggest complaint on E3 was no cross over of tread in center, so when it gets wet no place for water to go and tire wants to hydroplane.

Depends on where you got them. If you got them at parts house and have reciept, take them back. Last I checked the mobil 1 filter still is made correct for ou4 bikes. A few bucks more but good filter.

I supose it could be a failed relay. But in the close to 100 of these I think I have built I have got 1 bad relay. And I found that on a bench check prior to shipment. Also I think if if relay goes bad it would act just like key was off because now power would cross switch.

When he jumped "real" motorcyles I would watch on wide world. The whole rockt cycle thing I thought was bogus. But to think he and the other guys jumping at the time did all that stuff with no engineers or computers etc. Just a guess and by golly. He was definatly a BS artist.

I make the by pass relay kit. I make them in a standard whick simply installs and helps save the switch. Or I can make a keyless for a complete by pass if needed. I am also working on sourcing a switch so I could make a complete kit for someone should the OEM switch fail. All of the kits are plug and play. PM if need more info.

Here are the 2 listing I saved. This one on bids starting $245 and $9.50 shipping. This on buy it now/best offer. You may be able to offer say $10 less than asking and get it. $254 free shipping.

Not particularly. I looked today and found quite a few on e bay for around 280 and a set for as low as 240.

I made some of the by-pass with the key on aux wire. it should be a wire off the blue wire in the relay. You can tap into that wire and draw power. If you use the piggy back connector off the cig plug I dont think you would have any problems. Good luck if you need anything I can help with drop a note.

Watch the main fuse for corrosion. Down where its at I guess it collects a lot of crap and moisture. Then it corrodes the fuse. Sometimes they will look OK but resistance gets high.

And to think, they just about ran him out of town when he was a kid. Guess they dont mind him so much if $$$ is involved. He was a piece of work. I meet him in his late years.

Under the right leg fairing is, Cruise control, Carb Heat, Aux DC connector fuse (I think they mean the one under the seat) Aux Jack (fairing) audio system. Under the left side cover is, Top left back up fuse (odometer and clock) Rad Fan, Headlight, Signals, Ignition PG 8-33 owners manual

If you have one of my by-pass relays I can tell you which wire is "key on" and you can tap into it. Other wise maybe the power for the passing lights under the fairing. Or under the seat there is a white connector that is key on power. Easiest without the by-pass is probably yhe aux plug under the fairing. Just run a wire with a piggy back 1/4" connector

I had one pop off when pulling the fuel line. I just ovaled the end going into the petcock a very small amount to cause interference. Add a drop of red lock tight and no more problems.

OK I though maybe they could be re-hardened after being reground. So if I understand you right the shim sort of has a coating like an M&M.

Here is a pic of a tire I sadly replaed @ 1400 miles. I hit something and it went flat. I was going to patch it from the inside, but once I got home and looked it over and saw it was much long cut than initialy had thought and being it was in such a way I thought acceleration would may be rip at it I replaced it also.

A couple years back the guys on Top Gear had one of those things for a "track day" car. So with all the rig a morrow Polaris had to go thru with the new vehicle they just came out with how is this thing going to be rated?

I have speed bleeders on everything. Its a PIA to get a hose on the clutch anyways. I loosen it up and finger tighten. Install hose then use a small pliers if it needs a little help to loosen.

I'm glad someone chirped up. So If we have say an over abundance of 300 shims can they be resurfaced to something more usable. I dont know seems the 280 to 165 range comes to mind.

Not that I have done that, but I can assure you, you are not the first. I have to read the "how to change the rear wheel" thread about every time I have mine off to ensure I get assembly correct. And that is one thing mentioned is correct spacer placement. glad your up and running. Last year after about 3 weeks with a brand new tire I had a flat coming home one day. I plugged it and was going to take it apart and patch from inside. when I got it off I decided the way the foreign object cut it I would just replace the tire. 1500 miles on the brad new one ouch.