djh3

SilverT you also need to change your profile. LOL

Hmm seems we just had this discussion on the fairing hitting or almost hitting risers just a few weeks ago. The rubber vibration dampeners had fallen out and he had to make some. Look here for one thread Here is another with a crafty fix from M61A1MECH

Hit and miss on their jacks. I have a alum "racing type" jack that has given me many years of good service. But when I worked in a race shop we bought 2 of the hyd lift tables (supposedly like 500 lb cap) and they lifted a maybe 100 lb gearbox 2 or 3 times before it puked. We had O rings and I rebuilt the one, but it still only lasted about 3 months. The shop bought 3 of the same racing type jacks I have and they still work far as I know and are like 15yr old. For whatever reason the lift stands and tables, ATV type jacks just dont seem to have good jacks in them.

I have a Dowco Rally Pac. Kind of like a back pack and also had a roll bag that goes on top. Well made, only thing I would like is a little beefier zippers.

Just tryin to help.

Want to trade for a Venture? LOL

How about the @#$ that just HAS to pull out infront of you and do 10 under the speed limit so you have to jam the brakes, and there is no traffic behind you. REally?? You jerk you couldn't wait like 3 sec for me to pass before you turned? From my past days flying around the US and going thru airports. The Mr Business suite man with the balding head and the micro pony tail of 2". News flash dude, the 60's are gone and so is your hair. (apologies to the english grammar fellow for my incorrect use of which to/two/too's to use)

Consult Avons web site and e-mail them and ask. I have read some articles that say not to. But they were also written a few years back, sooooo Maybe newres construction allows it with certain tires. As a general statement "its not recommended" The design and construction of the two tires is different and act differently. Cost is a contributing factor to as if I remember right the radials are about 10-15% more and you don't gain any wear from them.

Cool beans. Glad you found the problem. I really like my "replacement" marker lights. I also wired in a resistor/diode set up so I can run them as running lights and turn signals.

Took me a couple looks to figure out what they do. But I'm guessing move floorboards forward?

Yes some progress. I thought I had got in touch. Shoot me an e mail.

Same lights I have replaced my side reflectors with it looks like. Small flat tip screwdriver. Lift the tab slightly and watch the clearance where it locks the assembly in. Just enough to get above the side of the yellow light is all you looking for. Once your there you should be able to get one side ot and the tab will stay slightly up. Then do the same on the other side.

I would not think the wing vent things would work very well unless your moving. If I'm moving I dont notice it to much. If its hot its hot. I have heard of some removing the lowers on the fairing during hot months. That will allow more air between the faring and the leg fairings.

I had a 130 michelin commander 2 on the front for over 17k. I really like the feel of the 130 and will go back to it next change. Currently have a shinko in the OEM size. I think Shinko makes the 777 in the 130 size in the right weight rating.

It is miserable to try to sleep when your sweating and its like 85 or 90 in the house and not much air flow. Heat index here this summer have been in the 100 most all summer. There is a filter on the intake. Its kind of a green mat thing looks like a large version of the scrubby side of those dish sponges, open more but sort of that material. So its cleanable.

Mine is currently a heat pump. Dont really know if they are suposed to be better or not down here. I spent 2.5 hours in attic after dinner tonight. Removed side covers and condensor was just about one block of ice. I kind of figured that as there was not much flow out vents. Turned unit off, got a spray bottle and a little chlorine and mixed water with it. sprayed the fins and used shop vac to try to suck the black goo out of fins. Took a few times to kind of thin the goo out I guess and vacumed some out. Fired up compressor and blew fins out first from one side then the other, then vac again. Several times, like I said 2.5hr up there. It at least is cooling some now and have air flow, and it has shut off a couple times since I restarted it. So... its working beter but........... The air handeler is pretty rusty, the drain pan under it is shot. Originaly a couple years ago thats what started it, drain pan over flowed and craped out a bunch of drywall. When I heard it dripping off the roofI found it leaking. The drain pan didnt appear to have enough tilt to drain. So this year the pan was rusted out and it is so close to the now rusty air handeler that the air handeler would have to come out to replace pan. The coils in the air handeler look really bad even after I got what I could of goo off. My orginal estamate on age of unit was off. Its closer to 27 years old. Im not really looking to change out because its old, more I know its bad or going to conk out or possible cause more damage to drywall and possible inside the house where wet drywall could become a mold issue. Effecincy wise this thing is probably so old they didnt even have seer ratings, and if they did its about a 2. I think the minimum they can sell is like 13. I would maybe look to 15 but not much more as I peronaly would never get the energy savings vs extra cost I think..

Well as my luck would go anyways, my home AC is about dead I think. It runs constantly, not much flow from vents. Also the duct by the air handeler is sweating so bad it had ruiened the drywall cieling and its fell down, big mess. Anyways I am trying to research about AC units. Current ubit is like 20yr old or something Carrier I have read some decent things about Comfortaire I think it is. Suposedly its a rebadged Carrier. Anybody got input or references whats good.

We were in Franklin NC earlier this summer. On like the north side of town was where Wal Mart was. Now it it a mile or so closer to town, brand spanking new building and the older one sits empty. We gat a pizza from a place next to the old WM and the fellows in there said something about plumbing or electrical issues. Had 2 close here in Fla for suposed plumbing issues. If our US economy is crashing there aint nothing I can do. Im just screwed.

I have parts on hand, and I cant build it and ship it for what that 2nd ebay listing cost. Like 3.89 or something. Just in parts I have about 4 bucks.

Glad you made it home, even with issues. So you think its maybe a stator, or did battery just pick then to go?

Best I can cyper off wire diagram is the main fuse feeds the fuel pump.

I am almost at point of a rear tire change. Thats usaualy one of my indications for brake/clutch bleed time. So I was in auto parts store and picked up some DOT 4fluid. I looked for probably 5 min. Every DOT said Syn on it. So DOT 4 Syn is what I got.

That is an incorrect link. Its for goof

Pull the left side cover. Fuel pump is under there. Turn key on and put your hands on it and see if it feels like its running. You could check and see if you got voltage there. I would have to check for sure but dont think there is a seperate fuse for the fuel pump. There is an article in the tech only section on replacing the expensive OEM type pump with a less expensive solid state pump from autozone. Or a couple places guys have ordered points for the old pump and fixed it.

OK I have a OEM replacement switch idea worked out. If you already have my bypass harness installed and for some reason the switch goes south. I have a harnes you can plug in and install an on off universal ignition switch. Remove your old switch (toughest part of whole job) and install your universal ignition switch in the surround. For the switch pictured it took a 3/4" x 2" washers. Tighten the jam nuts up so the switch dont move around and your good to go. I would paint the washers black to blend in but was just working on mock up.