Prairiehammer

Stock is supposed to be 10KΩ±10%. Page 7-16 of the 1983-1985 manual. You said "1987" XVZ12 but you meant 1984?

1. Partially plugged pilot circuit on one or more carbs. 2. Air/vacuum leak. 3. Initial cold idle speed set too high. Lower the idle to under 950 rpm.

WoW! Mike! THAT is one freaking big BUTT! (tire) The butt sitting on the bike is however, much smaller. Your "honey butt" look like that one, BJ?

Yes, a stubby #3 screwdriver will work. Preferably an insert bit in a 1/4" socket with a ratchet. You will be able to push up with one hand and turn with greater torque with the other. Give the screws a shot of penetrating oil tonight and try in the AM. Mine came right out on both bikes. Still hankering for some tuna. Or swordfish. Or even tilefish.

While you CAN attempt to saw off the ears of the TCI while it is still mounted in the bike, I would first attempt to remove the screws holding it. Then cut off the ears. Yes, the pic is of my 1991 (newer than yours) but all the First Gen Ventures are identical under the "hood". You can do the same thing as I, to your '84. BTW: Got any tuna?

What happened to "1-800-gogetyerown!"? I tried to call the 1-800-win-3030 number and I got some dude with an Indian or Pakistani accent. I couldn't understand everything he said, but he did indicate that I could get a small butt if I would simply purchase the snake oil he was selling. Thanks alot, BJ. Lotta help you are. I already have a bony butt. Mine.

You can't see the TCI, if the battery box and air box are in place. The TCI is under the battery box, mounted to the coil rack. I sawed the mounting ears off my TCI with a bandsaw. JUST fits under the faux tank cover, while nestled up against the battery.

I've never removed them, although I have relocated the fairing bags to the handlebars, for the knee room. The trunk bag is handy for the passenger, and most thieves wouldn't figure out what it took to remove the bag, especially in the dark. I remove the GPS(s) from the handlebars for the night and cover the bike with a "half-cover" at night. Of course, everything is locked. (Knock on wood), I've never had an issue...even in Cleveland...or even in Canada...

Interesting. What's her name and number? JK:big-grin-emoticon:

Regarding the erratic or non existent timing advance: although it is uncommon, I know of at least one instance where the rotor/flywheel Woodruff key was sheared and the rotor/flywheel was misaligned and in fact moving on the crankshaft.

I removed (and relocated) the TCI on both my '90 and '91 by first removing the airbox, the lower fairings, the radiator "triangular mesh covers" and the black plastic cover over the front head and then using a #3 Phillips bit (one inch insert) in a ¼" socket inserted onto a short handled ratchet, I removed the two "Phillips" head screws holding the TCI. I also removed the two "Phillips" head screws holding the boost sensor. I returned the boost sensor to its factory location after I had removed the TCI. Removing the boost sensor gave me a bit more room to remove the TCI. When I replaced the boost sensor, I used conventional hex head bolts, instead of the OEM Phillips. Slide the black plastic head cover out the left side of the bike. One does not have to remove the battery box.

Agree. But sometimes one has to bite one's tongue, for the sake of household harmony.

I can dig that. I've got lots of toys, but fortunately, lots of space(s); but I am constantly reminded of the adage: "Nature abhors a vacuum." (The more space you have, the more stuff you get to fill that space.) I own space for eight cars. And yet, even though I don't own eight cars, it is sometimes a struggle to discover space for the latest toy.

The simplest answer: Buy a running 1986+ Venture and have one of each to ride depending on your mood that day. If you want an even lighter look, leave the trunk off altogether.

I also repaired the blown out bosses on the "Terminal Panel". All of mine on the '91 were "bottomless". My method of repair is different from the OP, but it has been an effective repair. First, I ground down the remains of the mounting bosses, so that the underside of the terminal panel was smooth. Then I glued two 1/8th inch thick squares of ABS to the underside of the panel, using ABS cement. I then used a Forstner bit, and bored from the top down into the glued ABS. I eye-balled the correct depth, leaving about an 1/8th inch under the Allen screw. More than was OEM. I also used MEK and ABS cement to repair cracks around the CLASS housing.

This outfit claims to have the washers. Let us know if they do, in fact. Mighty pricey ($19+) for a lousy washer. But frankly, I don't think the rusty washer is your problem. More likely the inner/upper fork tube has a defect that has ruined the seal, or the upper fork bushings are worn. http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-26H231460000-Front-Fork-Washer/dp/B005CXLIT2

The front wheel locked up on my 1990 when I attempted to avoid the car that abruptly swerved into my space back in 2013. I performed a countersteer to the left as I braked moderately. The front wheel locked and we did a violent low side to the left at 65 mph. The trailer pushed the rear to the right simultaneously. I had 30 pounds tongue weight and was fully loaded and two up. I had the rear shock maxed out and the front on "high". The front end still seemed light. The trailer grossed at 325#. The bike had never, ever locked the front wheel prior. On that ill fated New England Tour, I actually managed to lose front wheel traction twice. Once in the rain, while negotiating a 30 mph sweeper, I felt both the front and rear slide sideways simultaneously. The second time was the aforementioned evasive maneuver. I think the trailer was the reason for both instances.

That is not correct Earl. On the 1983-1985 Venture, the pistons are identically sized on the front.

I have a set of Frogg Toggs, Highway Toadz, Style number NTH65125 in Hi-Viz Lime Green with NTH85105 pants. Debbie bought them for me while on our New England Tour. I thought they were rather expensive, but she said "Happy Birthday". I have worn them through a few rainstorms since, and found the jacket to keep me dry and comfortable. The pants leaked though in the crotch. While riding, the crotch of my pants formed a catch basin in which rain water finally penetrated. Perhaps the pants were mis-sized and because of the larger than needed waist, the excess material bunched and collected water. I have a 36 inch inseam and had to have a larger waist than needed in order to get the leg length I did require. YMMV.

The fuse block clips are notorious for failing. The clips may APPEAR to be OK, but the corrosion and lack of "spring" in the clips result in intermittent failures and often permanent failures with substantial heat. The indications on your bike point to the "SIGNAL" FUSE. Using a multimeter, measure the voltage on the "in" side of the fuse by placing the probe on the crimped portion of the fuse clip. Compare to the voltage on the "out" side of the fuse, again, place the probe on the crimp. I suspect you find either a blown "signal" fuse or a substantial drop in voltage across the fuse clips and or fuse. As for the red warning light: it will illuminate whenever any fault is found. The icons tell what the fault is. In your case, the icons tell us that the sidestand is down, the battery electrolyte is low (or the probe is disconnected) and that the fuel tank is nearly empty.

I suggest trying to "tweak" the fairing stays back to normal with the same brute force that "tweaked" them in the first place. BFH, long pipe and pipe wrenches should work. Measure from the same spot on each fairing stay to the frame as a reference and make each side match. Alternately, of course is eBay.

Yamaha has never released sales numbers for the Ventures AFAIK. However, after collecting First Gen Venture VIN for awhile now, I may be able to extrapolate the relative sales by California, US49 and Canada. According to my latest updated database: 1983 Standard > 7711 1983 Royale > 3985 1983 CDN Std > 299 1983 CDN ROY > 588 1983½ Standard (US ONLY) > 515 1983½ Royale (US ONLY) > 529 1984 Standard US > 2033 1984 Royale > 2988 1984 CDN STD > 975 1984 CDN Roy > 1106 1984 Euro (first year of importation) Unknown 1985 Royale > 1437 1985 STD (CANADA ONLY) > 278 1985 CDN Roy. > 498 1985 Euro UNKNOWN 1986 Royale > 2701 1986 CALI Roy. > 296 1986 STD (CANADA ONLY) > 487 1986 CDN Roy. > 515 1987 Standard > 598 1987 Royale > 1877 1987 CALI STD > 2 1987 CALI Roy. > 1174 1987 CDN STD > 56 1987 CDN Roy > 270 1987 Euro UNKNOWN 1987 NIGERIA UNKNOWN 1988 Standard > 217 1988 Royale > 1236 1988 CALI STD > N/A 1988 CALI Roy. > 136 1988 CDN Roy. > 98 1988 Euro > N/A 1989 Royale > 1710 1989 CALI Roy > 196 1989 CDN Roy > 68 1989 GERM > N/A 1989 EURO > N/A 1990 Royale > 752 1990 CALI > 63 1990 CDN Roy. > N/A 1990 GERM > N/A 1990 EURO > 18 1991 Royale > 307 1991 CALI Roy. > 50 1991 CDN Roy. > 26 1991 Euro > 40 1992 Royale > 169 1992 CALI Roy. > 8 1992 CDN Roy. > N/A 1993 Royale > 228 1993 CALI Roy. > 26

Read this thread. Parts required are listed. Make sure you get the correct pins as well as the segment. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?101787-1984-Venture-Royale&highlight=segment

I don't know for certain about odometer tampering on the First Gen, but autos of the era are supposed to show a "misalignment" of the odometer digits if the digits have been forced back. I don't think spinning the odometer back via the speedometer cable will reflect that misalignment, but it would take a long time to turn back an odometer via a drill motor.

The speedometer is driven by a spinning magnet. There is no direct mechanical connection from the speedometer cable to the speedometer. There is a direct mechanical connection from the speedometer cable to the odometer. Like utadventure says, check the speedometer for free spinning. Some pics of the speedometer on the First Gen.