Prairiehammer

Will this help?

Yamaha specifies 60 grams (2.11 ounces) of desiccant. The Yamaha part number is 31M-22945-00-00. Retails for $106 if available. There is 31M-22945-00-00 available here on eBay for $26. http://www.ebay.com/itm/N-O-S-YAMAHA-P-N-31M-22945-00-00-AIR-DRYER-DESICANT-XVZ1300-XVZ-1200-/360728941233?hash=item53fd1ed2b1&vxp=mtr However, most any desiccant will work, as long as the silica gel particles are not too fine. Saturated silica gel (pink color) can be dried and reused by placing into a low oven until the desiccant is dry (blue in color).

Read this thread for the specifics of the battery electrolyte sensor elimination: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?489-Battery-Warning-Bypass

I am not aware of the failure to run with the electrolyte sensor disconnected. A disconnected electrolyte sensor will only result in a flashing warning light and illuminated "battery" icon on the Venture CMS. No harm will be done with sensor disconnected. Harm WILL be done to the CMS if one connects the wire directly to 12 volt without the resistor.

Commonly, the battery electrolyte sensor is disconnected at the bullet connector. Snip the sensor from the end of this disconnected wire assembly. Strip the cut end of the wire and solder a 2.2K ohm to 22K ohm resistor onto the stripped bare wire. Solder another short wire to the resistor. Cover the resistor and the soldered joints with heat shrink or electrical tape. Connect the end of the new wire extension to the Positive Accessory Post on the fuse block. Reconnect the bullet connector to the bike harness where it was previously. The CMS warning light will light when the battery sensor is removed. Incorporating the resistor into the circuit will satisfy the CMS that there is a good battery electrolyte level and the warning light will be extinguished. This "mod" is very commonly done and a search of the forum will return innumerable hits on the subject.

Yes, you can remove a good diaphragm from a cracked slide and install the good diaphragm onto a good slide. The diaphragm should be pinched onto the slide between the white plastic ring and the she slide lip. Warm the whole thing up to make the rubber diaphragm more pliable and gently pry the white ring off the slide, then gently ease the diaphragm from the slide. Some gentle prying with a tool may be required. Be certain the tool is not too sharp or you may tear the good diaphragm. Install the good diaphragm onto the good slide, utilizing some lube and your thumbnail. Make sure the off center hole in the slide is at 6 0'clock when the diaphragm indexing tab is located in the recess of the carb body. SCI (Sirius Consolidated Industries) is a Canadian company offering new diaphragms for the Venture. http://www.siriusconinc.com/search_result.php?search=search&make=2&model=Venture+Royale&part=1&partno=&x=60&y=19 SCI also has an eBay store: http://stores.ebay.com/Sirius-Consolidated-Inc/Yamaha-Carb-Kits-/_i.html?_fsub=4&_sid=24743148&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Russ, it is good that you succumbed to the "wringer", if for no more reason than peace of mind. I had a male classmate who died from breast cancer. Many are unaware that men can and do get breast cancer.

If you are dead set on retaining the electrolyte level sensor, get this battery: Yuasa SY50-N18L-AT It comes complete with an electrolyte sensor. A word of warning for those who may try to use a conventional lead acid (wet) battery with the original equipment electrolyte sensor: not all sensors are the same. One can short out the new battery if the old sensor is used, because the old sensor may be too long and it may make actual contact with the plates in the new battery. Conversely, some OEM electrolyte sensor may be too short and will indicate a low electrolyte condition before there is an actual low electrolyte level. Bottom line: don't use the sensor from the old battery. Only use the sensor provided by the battery manufacturer.It is best, if one wishes to retain the electrolyte sensor, to utilize the sensor that may come with the new "wet" battery. Having said that; I would not install a conventional "wet" lead acid battery. The Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) battery (Yuasa YTX24HL-BS) is maintenance free and has a higher cranking capacity.

The OP concerned the Standard Venture, (no CLASS). To Blaine: what exactly is wrong with the "air ride" now? Loses air? There isn't much to go wrong with a Standard air ride. Pretty much all that can fail are the hoses, shock, fork O-rings or fittings. Check all the air lines with soapy water. Look for small bubbles. Any bubbles indicate a leak. Particularly important to check the hose joints. And the 'Fool beat me with the "CLASS" comment while I was editing my first comment.

Johnny Strabler don't do no stroll. I might ride the bike onto the dance floor, though. I think I will take the mufflers off first. Kathie Bleeker: Well, what d'ya do? I mean, do you just ride around or do you go on some sort of a picnic or something? Johnny: A picnic? Man, you are too square. I'm... I... I'll have to straighten you out. Now, listen, you don't go any one special place. That's cornball style. You just go. [snaps fingers]

So, OK. I just spent 55 freaking dollars for a Marlon Brando "Wild One" cap. I sure hope the prize is worth it. And the 650 mile ride there. And back.

Would a Marlon Brando leather jacket (I have mine from the Seventies, when I was young) count as a '50s costume? I can roll my jean cuffs up and wear engineer boots. I'll look for the proper cap. Please?

The front forks with the side mounted anti-dives are definitely 1988 or newer. In addition to checking the title, have him check the VIN label on the frame beneath the brake pedal. And it goes without saying that I would like to add it to the First Gen database.

That is a 1988 Venture Royale, not a 1987. The '87s were either " Fifth Anniversary Gold" or Imperial Brown. If your bike is the white and cream then it is a 1988, or a repainted 1987 to match the 1988 colors. What is the VIN and build date?

I am not too bright, but thanks for the confirmation.

I hope you were not applying "as much as I can create" POSITIVE pressure to the Boost Sensor. The Boost Sensor should show a voltage change when 600mm Hg (mercury) NEGATIVE pressure (vacuum) is applied and 600mm Hg positive pressure. Six hundred mm of mercury translates to about 11 psi. Too much positive pressure will damage the Boost Sensor. Six hundred mm of HG vacuum applied should indicate .5 volts. Six hundred mm Hg positive pressure should measure 4.9 volts on a good sensor. Double check the procedure described in the manual. Confirm that you are checking the voltage properly. And make sure your digital voltmeter is set at the lowest range. The Boost Sensor contains a strain gage/gauge. A strain gage is a device whose electrical resistance varies in proportion to the amount of strain in the device. In this case, the "strain" is the movement of the diaphragm within the Boost Sensor, movement caused by the varying vacuum applied to it. Strain gages are very sensitive to varying pressures and to electrical over currents. It is entirely possible to "burn out" a strain gage. There is also an amplifying circuit within the Boost Sensor. It too can be defective.

Virtually all the plastic on First Gen Ventures is ABS plastic. ABS is black and the body parts are molded ABS and the raw ABS panels are painted, pinstriped and finally a clear coat is applied.

Yes, although the gaskets may not be copper. Item number 11 on the fiche. PN. 90430-38054. http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-90430-38054-00.html http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-NOS-NEW-V-MAX-XVZ-TT-XT-SR-XS-VENTURE-EXHAUST-GASKET-90430-38054-OM10-/360966827574

Probably not the "joint" (rear header), more likely the stubs or nipples welded to the collector. But anything is possible. There are gaskets at all the points that the various exhaust components attach to each other.

Thank you bandaid. "Gold/silver"?? Is it a repaint?

It appears that the rotor/flywheel became loose, allowing it to slide toward the stator. One or more of the starter clutch bolt ends caught the stator mounting screw head(s). When the interference happened, the woodruff key may have been sheared then. If you tried to torque the crankshaft bolt after that happened, the specified torque may have been indicated but the sheared woodruff key may have prevented the rotor from seating fully on the taper of the crankshaft. The rotor has to be keyed in the proper position; if it is off, the timing will be off. I'm guessing the rotor came off relatively easily? Usually the rotor is a bear to get loose. In addition to the damage to the stator mounting screws, the stator windings are also scraped and damaged. You will need three new stator mounting screws and a new stator. The Woodruff key should be available at your local Yamaha dealer. That same key (PN. 90280-05029-00) has been used on hundreds of Yamahas, right up to some 2015 models. I don't believe the crankshaft key slot is damaged enough to render the crankshaft ruined. [h=1][/h]

Thank you Vito. Lots of good information.

Apparently, you have never submitted the VIN of this Venture to me. Would you? And the build date. Also, just to confirm the frame and engine combo is original, check the engine number, too. Thanks. Oh, and color and mileage would be nice.

Yes, a longer muffler mounting bolt is required. The longer bolt will thread through the frame tab and project enough to hang the trailer hitch onto. Install a lock washer and nut. Make sure the bolt is not so long that it interferes with the swing arm. It is a tight area to work on. You may find yourself using some curse words as you attempt to get that washer and nut onto the longer bolt and tighten it all up.

One of the most common exhaust system failures occur at the juncture of the mild steel nipples and the stainless steel collector. Essentially the nipple rusts and cracks at the weld. The impact very likely stressed an already weak point. It is difficult to see the juncture because of the chrome heat shield. The weld joint is behind the welded on heat shield.