Prairiehammer

Thanks Jerry. At your convenience, would you provide the build dates?

Here's a thread about Road King mufflers on a First Gen, including a video with sound by Rosie. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?76299-Road-King-mufflers-on-my-91&highlight=Road+King And another thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?48441-first-gen-RK-mufflers&highlight=harley%20muffler%20bracket

I suspect there is a fault in the starter clutch. Either broken springs, rusty and sticky rollers or worn/damaged clutch face on the 72 tooth gear (where the starter clutch 'sprag' engages) or cracked starter clutch, causing a failure to engage.

Not true, Jack. Currently, YUASA sells some of their AGM batteries dry along with a separate acid pack. For instance, the YTX24HL-BS for the First Gen Venture. Other YUASA AGM batteries are "factory activated" (shipped with acid inside).

Yes, the Venture mirrors are unique to the Venture, however, each master cylinder has a threaded hole (under a plastic plug) for standard Yamaha mirror stalks. The right hand threaded hole is left hand threaded (typical of most Yamaha mirrors. Some have installed ordinary stalk type mirrors on the master cylinders. Others have adapted other mirrors to the aluminum mounting base of the stock mirrors. There are some Venture mirrors on eBay. One of the cheapest, is a set of both right and left mirrors, for a starting bid of $10.99US! The seller is incorrect when he states this set is for 1986-1993 Ventures, for all First Gen Venture, 1983-1993 are identical. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1993-Yamaha-XVZ1300-Venture-Chrome-Left-Right-Side-Mirrors-5263-/311470787856?hash=item48851b0d10:g:xMYAAOSwA4dWKmeP&vxp=mtr

Yes. The VIN confirms that the bike is a 1983 Venture Royale intended for the American market. But there was no factory cruise control on the 1983 Venture. Factory cruise control was not available until the 1983½/1984 Venture Royale.

Thank you, Steve for the information. Your bike's VIN confirms that it is a US model, transplanted to Kiwiland. I have sent the database per your request.

The pictured resistor is original factory OEM set-up. If you change to a MF battery, simply cut that resistor off along with the probe and install a 2.2K through 22K ohm resistor on the same wire stub and connect the other end to a 12 volt supply, usually the ACC tap on the OEM fuse block.

Failure to easily find neutral and clunky shifter operation are classic symptoms of a poorly functioning hydraulic clutch release. Flush the clutch hydraulic system with new DOT3/4 fluid and bleed. Ensure that the master cylinder is clean and not worn (worn seals or a pitted master cylinder bore will allow bypass of fluid, resulting in incomplete disengagement of the clutch. Air in the system will cause the same malfunction.) Shift segment pins do not normally affect the failure to find neutral. Usually, if a shift segment pin is missing, one cannot shift up past a certain gear.

Not all Mitsuba SM13 series four brush starters will work on the Venture. The motor rotation may be clockwise or it may be counterclockwise, depending on the intended application. The armature pinion may project more or less depending on the intended application. The armature pinion teeth may have different pitch (number of teeth) depending on intended application. Is the starter a used starter from a Second Gen Venture or other 1991 and newer Yamaha XVZ1300? Or is it a new aftermarket starter? From your description, it seems that either the armature pinion is not engaged with the gear in the starter gear train or the rotation of the motor is incorrect and the one way sprag is not locking up because of it. It is possible also that the starter clutch (sprag) is seized in the freewheel position.

Just to be clear, the later style shift segment still uses pins, it is the integrated pin retention that is the improvement over the stamped sheet metal retainer on the early version.

The 1986 swingarm will bolt up to the 1983 frame however, the '83 rear brake caliper bracket probably will not fit the '86 swingarm (different mount styles). The 1986 driveshaft is longer/shorter than the 1983 driveshaft; that indicates that the swingarm lengths are different as well. (Make sure you get the driveshaft for the V-Max final drive that you want to put on the 1983, 'cause the 1983 driveshaft won't work). After some deliberation and retrospective, I can't recall ever seeing a MKII/V-Max/Second Gen final drive on a MKI.

According to Yamaha your frame number (47G-005121) indicates a 1985 XVZ12T/TD, model code 47G, intended country England. I suggest you check the engine number and confirm a matching number to the frame.

The TCI numbered "TID14-17" (26H-xx) is for a 1983 XVZ12TK/TDK (there was no 1983 XVZ12 imported to Europe). Your XVZ12TD-47G should have the TID14-34 (41R-xx) TCI. What is the complete VIN (frame number)? Is there a manufacturing date anywhere on the label? IS there a white label with vehicle identification on the lower frame rail beneath the brake pedal?

Pretty cool, Eck! At the risk of hijacking this thread (but you brought it up in a way) what are the extra grips about? Does the right one rotate with the throttle or is it stationary? I see the adjustability of the extra grips, looks very comfortable. Do you ever find the extra grips get in the way of normal operation of the bike? @cowpuc would prolly mount some knee pads to those extra grips; to provide a more comfortable "knee steering" situation.

WOW! 2344ms to load? Ping= 36.8ms? THAT seems really slow. I pinged Google and got this: C:\Users\Kevi>ping google.com Pinging google.com [216.58.216.78] with 32 bytes of data: Reply from 216.58.216.78: bytes=32 time=20ms TTL=55 Reply from 216.58.216.78: bytes=32 time=17ms TTL=55 Reply from 216.58.216.78: bytes=32 time=20ms TTL=55 Reply from 216.58.216.78: bytes=32 time=16ms TTL=55 Ping statistics for 216.58.216.78: Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss), Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds: Minimum = 16ms, Maximum = 20ms, Average = 18ms When I pinged Venturerider.org just now, I got a much better result than earlier. C:\Users\Kevi>ping venturerider.org Pinging venturerider.org [67.222.3.45] with 32 bytes of data: Reply from 67.222.3.45: bytes=32 time=45ms TTL=51 Reply from 67.222.3.45: bytes=32 time=47ms TTL=51 Reply from 67.222.3.45: bytes=32 time=48ms TTL=51 Reply from 67.222.3.45: bytes=32 time=50ms TTL=51 Ping statistics for 67.222.3.45: Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss), Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds: Minimum = 45ms, Maximum = 50ms, Average = 47ms

I've been gone for a few days (Leaf Looker) and just tried to get on for the first time this morning and YEAH, @cowpuc it took about 90 seconds for the home page to come up and another 2 minutes of "spinning wheel" before this thread came up. I am also running Windows 7 and Firefox (v.41.0). The only site that I have had issues with is Venturerider.org. Even before this extraordinarily long wait this morning, I've noticed a decidedly slow loading on VRO lately. I've had to refresh fairly often to get to another thread.

I've been gone for a few days (Leaf Looker) and just tried to get on for the first time this morning and YEAH, @cowpuc it took about 90 seconds for the home page to come up and another 2 minutes of "spinning wheel" before this thread came up. I am also running Windows 7 and Firefox (v.41.0). The only site that I have had issues with is Venturerider.org. Even before this extraordinarily long wait this morning, I've noticed a decidedly slow loading on VRO lately. I've had to refresh fairly often to get to another thread.

The tissue paper was used as a shim under the Teflon ring. Made the ring fit the cylinder bore more tightly; compensated for a worn ring.

As for the constant "search" it may be just a button stuck. Try a bit (a little bit) of WD40 on the button.

That IS some "significant" damage. I wouldn't try to repair it. There is a matching 1983 maroon saddlebag on eBay right now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Yamaha-Venture-XVZ12-XVZ-1200-Y319-right-side-saddle-bag-with-key-/231175684861?hash=item35d32502fd&vxp=mtr

Sirius Consolidated (a Canadian company) has a "complete" engine gasket set for $149US on eBay, includes four exhaust port gaskets, too. It does not have "oil seals", though. EDIT: Go to their website where the same kit is $130.90US. http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=121166 http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-V-MAX-VMAX-VMX12-VMX1200-XVZ12-VENTURE-ROYALE-ENGINE-GASKET-SET-1983-98-/161748938640?hash=item25a8fcef90&vxp=mtr

Here is a write up about overhauling the CLASS compressor. The CLASS was exhibiting the "E2" error prior to overhaul. CLASS System Compressor Ring Repair I was having problems with the CLASS air compressor on my '88 Royale. From 0 psi, it would pump the rear shock to about 52 psi before giving an error E3, “compressor on too long”. Repeating the attempt to increase pressure resulted in about a 1 psi increase before stopping with an E2 error, “air pressure not increasing”. It appeared that the compressor was running, but could not produce enough pressure to satisfy the CLASS computer's diagnostics. When a reciprocating piston engine loses compression it may be caused by a blown head gasket, leaking valves, worn piston rings or internal damage. Disassembly of the CLASS compressor was in order to determine the apparent lack of compression. Removing the assembly was pretty easy. There are three electrical connectors to remove, one to the compressor motor, one to the bleed valve and one to the manifold assembly. Remove the banjo fittings for the front and rear air lines. (Caution: reduce the pressure to 7 PSI before doing this). Then the whole compressor/valve/drier assembly lifts out off the studs that the cover attaches to. Next, remove the air line from the compressor to the drier. Disconnect the fitting at the valve, then loosen the clamp for the drier and remove the air line fitting on the drier that goes to the compressor. With the air line now disconnected, remove the compressor from its mounting bracket. Now, one can fit a wrench to remove the air line. Clamp the compressor in a vice, with the compressor head facing up. Remove four head bolts/screws and remove the head. Two thin pieces of metal form a reed valve at the intake port. Remove them. The body of the compressor contains a sintered metal insert that acts as a cylinder. The cylinder head seals to that insert via an O-ring. Re-orient the compressor in the vice so that the motor is straight up. There are six screws facing upwards. The middle two secure the motor to the body and do not need to be removed. I removed the outer four screws and separated the compressor case. The motor side has a simple gear reduction from the motor with a small crank pin sticking out. The piston and rod will be lying in the bottom half of the case. I pulled the cylinder/piston assembly from the head and pulled the piston from the cylinder. After washing everything in solvent, I could see no damage. The piston has a single Teflon looking piston ring on it. The piston ring didn't seem to stick out much from the skirt. I was confident that Yamaha did not sell a replacement. I wondered how I could make the ring thicker. Some oil rings on automotive engines are multi-piece. They have a wavy steel spring that fits in the groove, and then the oil ring sits on top of that wavy spring. The spring presses against the oil rings forcing them outward. So, I took a piece of paper and cut a string 1 7/8" long (the circumference of the piston ring groove) by 1/8", the width of the ring) and placed it in the groove and then put the ring on top of it. I slid the piston back into the cylinder. It was too tight. I measured the thickness of the paper as .005". I went on a hunt and found some thin tissue paper. It measured just a touch over .001". I cut a strip from this tissue paper. I put the piston in the cylinder and felt a little bit of resistance, not too much. I lubricated the piston with a very light coat of Vaseline and replaced the piston in the cylinder and reinstalled the cylinder in the compressor housing. I smeared molybdenum grease on the crank pin and a thin coat of RTV on the mating surfaces on the compressor housing and reassembled the compressor, making sure that the crank pin went into the piston rod. I cleaned the reed valve inserts as well as the head. I installed the reed valve inserts in the recess at the top of the cylinder, observing that the alignment notch was properly oriented. I cleaned the head and put a thin coat of Vaseline on the intake port and on the O-ring. I couldn't readily figure out how to clean the exhaust port. There is a bolt on the top of the head that presses on a spring that closes the exhaust port. I removed the bolt and the spring, but the valve stayed in. I put the head back on and tightened the screws. I reassembled everything and installed the assembly on the bike. I flipped the ignition to the “accessory” position and depressed the “H” (high) button. The digital readout indicated that the compressor pumped up to 70 psi and shut off; as designed. I bled the pressure down to 43 psi. Again, commanding high pressure, the compressor pumped back up to 70 psi indicated with no errors. Since I have aftermarket Progressive® springs in the front forks and like the handling with no air pressure in the forks, I left the front air line disconnected. I capped that air line by placing two rubber washers, one on each side of the banjo fitting, and bolting them together with a 1/4" bolt and two steel washers. That will keep any dirt or moisture out of the air lines. On the valve side, I bought an M8x1.0 bolt and cut it short, probably 15-20mm and screwed that into the valve body, seating it against the o-ring. I saved the banjo bolt in the event I wished to return the CLASS function. The whole operation took less than an hour and didn't require any special tools, other than a micrometer to measure the paper ring spacer. Larry Piekarski

I suppose it depends on how solvent your bank is. "Complete" engine gasket kits are in excess of $200US. Then there is the "complete" clause...not many are "complete". Some are sufficient, short of head gaskets, but others are woefully incomplete. Just curious: why are you in need of a "complete" engine gasket kit?