Prairiehammer

OK, gotcha. Available from Yamaha or here: http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-22V-14968-00-00.html http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-22U-14968-00-00.html

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-12R-14105-00-00.html I am not sure what you mean by "fuel passage caps". Perhaps you are referring to this "cap", number 37 on the microfiche? http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1991/XVZ13DBC/CARBURETOR%20NON%20CALIFORNIA%20MODEL/parts.html

The preferred solvent for ABS is MEK. I've used it to fix cracks in which the parts are tightly closed. Just let the MEK wick into the crack. It is a chemical bond when done. Usually I follow up the MEK with an application of ABS cement. Adding a little methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) to an opened ABS cement can will return it to it's original consistency. The added MEK replaces the evaporated solvent. Dissolve ABS shards and shavings in MEK to make your own ABS cement. One may purchase ABS sheets (I used 1/8" thick) on eBay. ABS rods are also available on eBay. BTW: ABS cement will not adhere to polyethylene. This characteristic is useful when one is trying to solvent weld pieces of ABS in a jig and does not want the pieces adhering to the work surface. Aluminum foil self-adhesive tape is also useful for holding pieces in place until the solvent weld is complete. After the ABS is cured, the aluminum tape peels right off, leaving a smooth surface.

I took a bunch of photos of the fairing on the 1991 because of all the places it was broken. I'm not sure if any will help you, but they are attached. As for the fairing mount at the mirrors, both mine were broken with missing chunks. I repaired both sides by adding 1/8" ABS pieces to fit and using ABS cement and fiberglass screening scraps, was able to repair to my satisfaction. There were no spacers. Follows is a photo "dump" of all my fairing pics. Relevance is questionable for you, as most of these pics show "before", as in broken. I don't know what was holding the plastic on the bike! Follows are some pics I took from the internet of various fairing attachment points that were not broken, just so I could approximate the proper shape and hole location for rebuilding mine. I also made cardboard templates to facilitate fabricating missing plastic. Hope some of this helps. But very possibly it does not.

Ride In Peace, Lonestarmedic.

As Jonas might say: Takk!

Check out this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?80181-Mk2-Trunk-Lid-cracks

Here is the Technical Bulletin concerning bleeding MKI brakes. Note it is the highest point in the system that should be bled first, not the most distant from the master cylinder. M85-016 Hydraulic System Bleeding Methods .pdf

Don, in this thread there were some pictures. It appears that the pics might have been part of a Word document. Anyway to recover the original format? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?80181-Mk2-Trunk-Lid-cracks

CLASSIC symptom of interrupted ignition signal from number two cylinder; usually indicative of a failing TCI and/or poor TCI connections. The hotter the TCI gets, the more prone to intermittent failure. Clean the TCI connectors. Relocate the TCI to the cooler and dryer location on top of the airbox...and cross your fingers. However, if the engine just barely ticks over at idle (is that what you mean by "zero"?) without applying "choke" (enrichener), but after giving it choke, it will idle OK, then that is more likely a plugged pilot circuit in one or more carbs. Plugged or partially clogged pilot circuits is also very common.

@KIC has an '89. @frankd has an '89. @Golf&Venture has an '89. When I put Condor's brace on my 1990 (with the factory gaiters [yes, @cowpuc, that is how it is spelled]) I found that his brace did not fit between the forks. I trimmed the gaiters and loosened all the pinch bolts AND the axle bolt and was able to install the Condor brace. Jack mentioned that you might have to do those things to fit it, even to a pre-gaiter (gaiters were introduced in 1990) model. I've seen where at least one person used a drum sander to remove some material that allowed for a good fit. Yamaha changed the lower/outer fork legs in 1988 and again in 1990 (to accommodate the gaiters). An external groove near the top of the lower legs is an indication of 1990 or later, as well as the yellowish silver paint (Yamaha called it "light gray metallic" or "light yellowish gray metallic") applied to the 1990 lower forks.

Patti @B2MOM posted this on Facebook: This wonderful husband of mine...we celebrated 44 years of marriage last month...and I almost lost him Friday night. Don had a hemorrhagic stroke and consequently a seizure. It was without a doubt the scariest night of my life. The emergency personnel responding to my 911 call were awesome. He is currently in ICU at Sacred Heart Hospital in Pensacola FL. After many tests, we think he is going to be ok. God blessed us again. Don knows who he is, where he is. He can walk and talk just fine, no apparent after effects from these two life threatening events. He will be in the hospital for at least a couple more days, with more follow up testing. The doctors cannot explain why this happened. His blood pressure was good. Not sure how long our travels will be on hold but I am so very grateful that he is still here with me. The one bad thing to come out of all this is that he will not be allowed to drive for at least 6 months. If we do get to travel at all this year, it will have to be me behind the wheel of the truck, pulling our huge home behind us. So please watch out for me...this is going to be a huge learning experience and I don't want to run over / hurt anyone. I ask that you keep us in your thoughts and prayers. Please hug your loved ones...you just never know when it will be your last hug.

Thank you, I'll take it if you please. It will make a nice addition to my First Gen Venture Library. BTW: the Owners Manual is for a 1984 Venture Royale, not a 1983.

Unless you have changed out the 1991 flywheel to an earlier one (1989 and older) you will need to use the single pick-up coil for the 1990-1993 Venture, 3UF-81670-00-00. As an aside: your carbs are 34mm, not the 35mm that came on the 1300cc First Gen Ventures. Did you swap them from a 1200? Or perhaps the Canadian Ventures still used 34mm carbs while the US models received 35mm carbs?

I suggest that the drive pins in the drive hub are dry and dirty. Clean and lube. M2005-015, REAR WHEEL CREAKING.pdf

Just a clarification on Bobby's two pickup coil years; 1983-1989 have two pickup coils while 1990-1993 have a single pickup coil.

Before replacing "loose" swingarm bearings, try adjusting them to attain the specified zero lateral movement. The swingarm bearings are tapered roller bearings, thus adjustable for slop.

Actually, I think that driveshaft is worn substantially. Granted the teeth are not galled, but note how sharp the teeth are. Unworn teeth will be very blunt, with a prominent flat at the tip of the teeth. Here's a good one for $9 plus shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/83-Yamaha-XVZ-1200-XVZ1200-Venture-drive-shaft-driveshaft-/311596597077?hash=item488c9abf55:g:0J4AAOSwYmZXF~84&vxp=mtr

On the 1983 Venture EXCLUSIVELY, the "Boost Sensor" vacuum line connects to a spigot on the number 2 carb body. Again, this connection is unique to the 1983 carb. All subsequent years the Boost Sensor vacuum line connected to the number 2 intake boot/manifold.

The stock wiring for the battery electrolyte sensor circuit included a resistor. The resistor value was quite low, too low to allow a direct connection to 12 volts. There is no danger in adding the 2-4K resistor in series with the existing stock resistor.

Thank you, Wayne for the information. As to the original engine number; the engine number should match the frame number, e.g., 1NL-001908.

While most aftermarket sources do not specifically offer grips for the First Gen Venture anymore, those that are offered up as Honda GL1500 replacements will work perfectly on the First Gen Venture.

Suit yourself. Whatever floats your boat, but the cables would not be different, regardless of grips.

Yes, if you swapped the early straight line slider for the later rotary union, you could then use the later, available cables.

The 1983 XVZ12 had no factory cruise control and thus did not have the "five into one" rotary connector. The cable ends went into a "slider" instead. The cable ends were longer cylindrical terminations instead of the "barrel" connectors. The later cables have the barrel at both ends. The 1983 Slider: Later model union: