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Prairiehammer

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Everything posted by Prairiehammer

  1. I was not able to crack the banjo bolt at the proportioning valve because it is not accessible behind the master cylinder and frame. To loosen that banjo bolt I had to dismount the master cylinder, loosen the banjo and remount the master cylinder and then depress the pedal. I decided to just remove everything. I removed the reservoir, the master cylinder with proportioning valve, the brake hose from the proportioning valve to the rear caliper and the rear caliper. I removed the proportioning valve from the master cylinder and removed the internal workings. Everything looked like new. I noted the position of the various parts and cleaned everything, even if it didn't look dirty. I used shop air and blew out all passages. I blew into the hose (by mouth, first) and found it open. I used shop air to blow it out real good, too. I used shop air on the caliper and all the pistons moved out. I pried the pistons back into the caliper body and again applied air and all four again moved out. I opened the reservoir and found it pristine as well. No deposits, nor crusty jello, nor sediment anywhere. I am going to reassemble everything, but since I didn't find anything out of line, I am skeptical that the problem has been resolved.
  2. I installed Speed Bleeders ™ on the clutch and on all brake bleeding points yesterday (perhaps I shouldn't have chosen Friday the Thirteenth) and flushed all clutch and brake fluids with new fresh DOT4. Everything was going swell until I replaced the last bleed valve on the rear caliper and could not get any fluid to come out of the bleeder when I attempted to bleed the rear brake line. I replaced the Speed Bleeder with the OEM and attempted to bleed as normal and again no fluid would emit. I removed the bleeder and depressed the brake foot pedal, but still no fluid at rear caliper. I can see that there is fluid in the open port where the bleeder fits, but none comes out when I depress the pedal. I have a very firm pedal and the left front brake works. I tried rebleeding the entire system and did not encounter any air at the front or at the metering bleeder near the steering head. I removed the plastic elbow with the reservoir fill hose attached to it and drained the reservoir. I examined the two ports inside the master cylinder that are visible when the elbow is removed and noted that the orifices were open as I depressed the pedal. I reinstalled the elbow, refilled the reservoir with fresh fluid and rebled the front left, the steering head metering bleed valve and attempted to bleed the rear once again without success. Same results, no fluid and no pressure at the pistons. Applying the pedal does not apply the brakes on the rear wheel but the front left brake works fine. It seems to me that the proportioning valve mounted on the master cylinder is stuck, perhaps, but I don't know enough about the internal plumbing of the master cylinder/proportioning valve to know if this is likely. It is not an easy task to remove the master cylinder and or the proportioning valve, so I am asking for guidance towards some other cause for me to have no pressure at the rear caliper. The last time I rode the bike a couple weeks ago, the brakes seemed to work fine, even two up. I only encountered a problem after I installed the Speed Bleeders™. (Thanks to your suggestion, Condor!)
  3. Sorry, Bill, but the Davis Rally is the same weekend.
  4. Are the dash lights still dimmable when the incandescent are replaced with LED?
  5. Bob: Do you by chance have an amber plastic cassette rain cover laying around that you would like to get rid of?
  6. Chocking When I use my Mity Vac to bleed the brakes, I often experience the solid stream of bubbles you experience. I found that these bubbles were not a result of air within the system, but air leaking around the clear hose where it slips over the bleeder. Sometimes, too, if you unscrew the bleeder too far, outside air, as opposed to air from within, is sucked by the bleeder threads. Try applying a bit of heavy grease to the bleeder valve before slipping the hose on to it. Also make sure the hose fits tightly on to the bleeder valve. This leaking air will also break the vacuum formed by the Mity Vac and result in very little actual bleeding of the air in the system. You should probably see old dark fluid coming out as you make an effective bleed. If not, there is probably no actual bleeding going on.
  7. Steppenwolf... I too think you have done a good job at packing that bike. Even got matching luggage.
  8. I didn't mean to say that the two different shots were related...just that it was coincidentally the same curve. The one is of a guy on a RSV while the other of the guy flyin' was a 70 something guy on a Harley. No relation...I guess.
  9. Look at this shot. Same place, same trees, same stumps, etc. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hBMgJiXA_aI/TZ1syyRaPfI/AAAAAAAAmgk/UmVS0DJxGBc/s1600/img_2820.jpg
  10. Black liquid shoe polish?
  11. Wish I could help ya, man, but ya can't get there from here.
  12. I've got my '83 Standard in Sparkle Crimson Black. It is my Sport Tourer/Street Fighter. My '90 VR is the "loaded" Luxo Tourer.
  13. According to Dingy in this thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=529445#post529445 there is no difference between a Barnett and a stock MK1. Hmmm.
  14. The same guy Mark John Dugann had posted a listing for a pickup on Craigslist in Nebraska. It was obvious it was a scam, the price was way to low, and after contacting this person, he wrote back, and his last name didnt match his email addy, and his spelling was terrible. He couldnt even spell Army correctly. Went something like this... Thank you for your interest in my 2004 FORD F150 LARIAT 4X4 TRUCK FULLY LOADED! The general condition of my truck is excellent,very well maintained, no damages and no mechanical problems, no electrical issues.I do have the title clear, under my name. The truck is already at the USArmy - Military Auto Transport Dept for POV(Private Owned Vehicle) in MERRICK ,NY Price was reduced to $2,600 (URGENT SALE) as I need to sell this truck in two weeks becasue I will leave with my platoon in another mission outside US.I'm US amry member,and now US Army give us the chance to buy some shares at BNSF RAILWAY.Co at half price and for this reason I need a fast transaction. Because it is a large transaction we will complete the deal only using an authorized third party like Google Checkout, using their Buyer Protection Program. The payment will be handling by the Google Checkout and you will benefit of 5 days inspection period (test drive) and the option to accept or reject the truck on my expense. I'm waiting your reply if you are interested to close the deal with me and I will let you know how we will do this transaction! Thank You! MSG Dugann Mark John United States Army Corps One team, one fight
  15. I am planning to go, along with a friend and my brother. http://moonshine-run.com/Moonshine/
  16. ...reports of the Zumo flying off...Is that why they called it a Zoom-o?
  17. Of course it's easier to get off ya...EILEEN DID IT!!!
  18. Gorgeous! (the seats)
  19. Five-eighths of an inch between the bar and the front of the bag.
  20. Howie over at the MTA site is digitizing the various publications that the Old Venture Touring Society and later the Motorcycle Touring Association produced. I was browsing recently and encountered this funny story by our own Don Nelson (Freebird). http://www.mtariders.com/magazine/Nov_Dec%2002.pdf (page 14).
  21. Eck, What are the things on the end of your handle bars? Highway pegs for the hands? Apparently they work, but also look cumbersome. How do you use them? Folded in like that in the pic or folded out to make the bars effectively longer? Or both? Does the auxiliary grip twist the throttle? Obviously, I've never seen anything like 'em. I went looking via Google and didn't find them, but I didn't know what to call the things. Intriguing.
  22. Shaun, Your bike came from the factory with linked braking. That means the left front caliper AND rear wheel caliper are actuated by the foot pedal and the right front caliper is actuated by the hand lever. I presume that you bled the right front using the hand lever and then moved to the left front and attempted to bleed it with the hand lever as well? As you can see above, that won't work. To bleed the left front caliper you must pump the foot pedal. Then pump the pedal to bleed the rear caliper. The left front/rear can sometimes be very difficult to bleed on your model. Later models (MK2, not to be confused with 2nd Generation) have an additional bleed screw high near the steering neck for the LF/rear line. Personally, I prefer to use a Mity Vac vacuum pump to bleed the hydraulics (clutch and brakes) on my VRs. Usually, it goes smoothly and effectively the first time. Having said all the above, if you in fact attempted to bleed the brakes properly and still have no fluid coming out, you may have a plugged bleeder screw, caliper or lines or you may have no fluid in the master cylinder to be pumped.
  23. I'm thinking like Jack, when it comes to my '90 VR with just 17,000 miles and suddenly it starts to slip when cranking it on in fifth gear. That clutch can't be worn out, something has happened. I rode it nearly 3000 miles to Florida and back through the Smokies and it never acted up once, but I get home and let it sit for a couple of weeks and then go out and it slips! Doesn't make sense for the spring and or discs to have gone bad. I'm going to check the slave, the relief orifice, something has gone wonka, but it surely isn't a nearly "new" spring or discs...is it?
  24. Fishing...especially, muskie hunting
  25. "Oh and I live farther then that from MD and I go." But MY bike is PERFECT...it needs NOTHING in the way of maintenance...
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