jasonm.

I replaced my 1300 diaphragm design with the older 1200 design. this allowed me to put in stiffer barnett springs...to my liking. Way at the begining of my ownership with only 5k on it when I got it.I like a stiff clutch lever. My plates finally glazed @60k. Which is the typical issue. Some like using sandpaper to "clean" them up. I just replaced the plates...heck it was cheap 10+ years ago. I used "K-G" brand.

as long as you have the OEM manual this is a simple job with many pictures

The original shock on these are very good. I would only replace if it was leaking oil or air. The progressive shock has a very OLD style dual ring, spring preload. If you ride solo all the time ...no problem. I have my original shock with a hvy dty progressive spring. I only recommend this spring if you ride with passenger all the time like I did 20 years ago.. I ride solo now it's a stiff spring even when setting the PSI low...

look at the clutch basket...there are markings..notches...dipples. They correspond to the IDEAL setting up of the clutch plates. I removed that inner disc set up..."piano wire" set up.. acts as a damper to sudden clutch release. An experienced rider does not need this. I"subbed" A standard disc and clutch plate . Left out the piano wire

remove the slides and a bright light will show holes and tears. FYI- the caps have a sharp inner edge that causes tears.... sharp edge later removed on the 1300 caps. This edge can be sanded away with 400 paper

the OEM spark plug caps can be disassembled. The area where the cap meets the spark plug. A straight screw driver can disassemble -UNSCREW the terminal assembly. Be aware there is BOTH a spring a tiny brass washer, and resistor . Remove the cap and check the resistance with a digital ohm-meter. If the resistance is over 11k....take it apart. They can be cleaned where the resistor and washer and spring sit. Use only 1500 or finer paper. Do not sand the resistor more than one stroke. This will increase the resistance. The resisters inside can be bad where there resistance just goes up out of whack. In this case the cap would need replacement. NGK sell 5k resistance caps for about $5 . Note: these are cheap and recommend replacing them every 3 years. Or buy the OEMs for $30 each...which last 15+ years. DO NOT put any dielectric grease or anything in the assembly. Just reassemble

FYI- ETX18L battery is available in the states for approx. $90 at you local Advance Auto. I am not sure who makes it or where? That is easily checked. October 2013 season I bought a Yuasa AGM $100 made is USA. LIKE ALL Bike batteries, before starting the bike, you should charge the battery. This size requires 10+ hours using a 2 amp charger or 24hrs using a 1 amp charge. Otherwise you will have less reserve

the most important thing I did on my rebuild was replacing the FLOATS and needles. And setting them correctly. You can possibly get some part from SIRIUS in Canada. There are important gaskets and o-rings required for a complete rebuild

FYI- that light bar does not appear to be for a 1200...does look proper. It really did not fit the 1200 "lines". I have the 80's catalogue...that does not look right. Glad you took it off

i tried the freezer thing too. It made do diff. Think about it...my freezer is approx. 5F...the air/bearing normal temp. is 70F. Do you really think that 65F change makes the hardened steel bearing shrink? I know many people believe this. But talk to a metalurgy expert. And he will tell you -30F is more useful...yet not possible. Actually the sweating of the cold bearing actually adds water is a lubricant...that's all. Now heating the wheel hub area to 200- 300F...that's obviously causes expansion and make the whole job smoother. But putting the bearing in the freezer cannot hurt.

I had my Venture for over 20 years. I have tried a few including JB weld. I can say the Plastic welders generate HEAT that causes/increases the bond. And fully set up in less than an hour. Plastic welders...You are actually making a PLASTIC. JB weld does not generate heat and has a long set time. Good Plastic welders do not need anything to increase the strength. I have a few high stress repairs now 10+ years old. None have failed. The only thing about JB weld is it's ability to handle high heat...up to 300 or 600F. JB weld is not bad stuff...just "welders" are better.

DEVCON PLASTIC WELDER- True Value hardware OR PERMATEX Plastic Welder Advance Auto. Both are amazing stuff. I have used them also as fillers when there was no plastic...aka holes.

there is a spacer in between the wheel bearings. The spacer keeps proper"spacing" Now this spacer can be shifted a bit to the side to allow for a drift punch the knock out the bearings. A few evenly spaced taps...hits is all it take with a 2# sledge hammer. If you have a heat gun use it also on the hub only as well as warming the hub before installing new bearings. Socket is for install. Make sure you have a socket that ONLY hits the very OUTSIDE edge of the bearing. The warming really helps both ways

If you upgrade to non-linked and NOT use R1 calipers. Then you must replace the original 14mm master cyl. with a 16mm- 5/8" bore type. A Virago 1100 or 750 from the 90's with dual disc has the exact master you would need. All masters are marked with bore size...under them near the port or banjo bolt.

86-93 have bigger main jets . Once you set the low speed screws properly. It will run a bit rich above 5000rpm. But really how often do any of us run above 5000 for more than a few seconds. The biggest advantage of the 1300 carbs is a slightly bigger bore 35mm vs, the 34's the 1200's have. And a bit quicker response with the 1300 slides. And a few other things...but of minimal importance.Such as the pretty carb caps on the diaphragms...1200 carbs have a sharp inner edge which causes the rubbers to wear out faster than on 1300 carbs. If you have a 1200. The edges can be wet sanded(rounded) back w/ 220 and 400 paper. It really does make a LIFE difference for the diaphragms. Just something I noticed having owned both. The TCI ...don't need changing. The advance curves differences from 1200 to 1300 is minimal...I think

the simple reason the ONE carb set up is not have the torquey feeling and the seller said. It is a car carb the has fixed jets and the ONLY moving part is the butterfly for throttle...which always results in some lag. Similar to the performance of carbed bikes in the 70's before the CV design. UNLESS there is an accelorator pump on it...which I DO NOT SEE. But accel pumps really cannot fix the lag totally.

why are you removing the fuel tank? That is a big job..it's under the seat and requires the rear frame to be removed. The fuel lines are accessable from under the tank and sides...easier to see after removing passanger pegs and side covers. There is NO reason to remove the fuel tank unless it's rusted inside.Do you mean the fake fual tank cover? That is ONE SCREW by the gas door. and the cover slides forward an inch or 2 to remove. You want to see the carbs...then after the cover...remove the air box. The air box also has one or 2 hoses to it for PCV and such. You sure it's the OEM Yamaha SERVICE MANUAL ? Mine tells me everything. if you have just the owners manual...get the service manual.

Bad mileage has many possibilities. You already identified the holes in the diaphragms. Which limits top speed and efficiency. If Bad mileage w/o holes... Age causes the floats to lose bouyancy...it's the ethanol gas and the water it attracts. Resulting> there is too much gas in the float chambers. This is a crucially important thing. That is why the spec. is in mm and +/- 1mm. Lastly with high mileage bikes, the NEEDLE jet is brass and gets worn out. But changing the jet requires total carb disassembly. A quick solution is the shim the needles down just 1mm. Note: the needle is harder than the jet and do not wear out. I did all listeded above at one time or another. Now I have new needle jets and new floats set to perfection which requires lots of patience. The carb(s) must be perfectly level when this is set. Put in a vise w/wood...and leveled sides. Like I said this is crucial for overall performance. Low speed screws also set using EGA...exhaust gas analyzer. I get 40+mpg below 75mph all the time.

the best and least knoxious of the plastic welder epoxies is Devcon plastic Welder(True Value hrdwr) and a Permatex brand (Advance Auto). Both make a cream color mixture. Warning:The Super Glue brand has the most knoxious fumes...I almost passed out using it.

the rear tire should be the 140/90 ! THE 130/90 WILL CAUSE THE STEERING TO BE TOO QUICK. I have what the manufacturer calls a140/90. But I noticed it was significantly narrower that the previous tire. The bike turns / leans quickly. Something that you may not like. Plus the 140/90 will give you better mileage than the thinner 130. Stick with the original sizes! I have found cheap tires do not last...

I see Yamaha does call it the rotor. But to a car mechanic. The item that engages the starter is the flywheel. Then how does Dano MOD happen? I thought it was buying the 2nd gen clutch and idler gear can get it done with some drilling of the 1st gen flywheel/rotor. But it sounds like more. Is there a link on how this is done ? I believe he uses your original flywheel/rotor.

Rotor is a bad word considering rotors are what your brakes use. AS for the term "ring gear". I do not know for sure what that is ? Maybe the "clutch idler gear" ? Part #6 on the link. http://www.yamahamotorsports.com/partviewer/default.aspx?ls=sport#/Yamaha/XVZ13DT_-_1987/STARTER_CLUTCH/XVZ13DT_(1987_MOTORCYCLE)/STARTER_CLUTCH_(XVZ13DT_-_1987) I have taken these apart before. So, I guess Dingy is saying the 1st gen Flywheel does not fit with the 2nd gen starter clutch ? I was hoping it was doable by simply drilling and tapping the extra holes. If a clutch idler gear from a 2nd gen is also needed. It's doable. As I thought that's what the Dano MOD was?

It says made in Taiwan...Has anyone checked this out as an upgrade for 1st gens..using this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/034-NEW-034-Yamaha-Royal-Star-1300-XVZ13-XVZ-13-Tourer-Venture-Starter-Clutch-96-13-/321251128800?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

from what I read here. Someone is trying to remove the FLYWHEEL. You must remove the center flywheel bolt. Then using a 3 point puller. The flywheel has 3 threaded holes for three bolts. Use high grade 10.9 8mm bolts. Often the ones with the puller are junk. Puller available from Sears and Auto parts stores. DO NOT put any bolt into the crankshaft. Your puller is to push down on the crank's end. If you wish to protect the crank's end, a washer is all you need. Snug the 3 bolts down. Make sure it's all EVEN. Now tighten the puller center, that is actually pushing.Once it gets "tight". Tap the puller with a 2 lb. sledge, Every 1/8 or 1/4 turn. It will simply pop off.. It took me less than 10 minutes to get mine off. Reinstallation requires all mating surfaces OIL FREE! Use brake clean or lacquer thinner. Do not get these cleaners on your the stator. Which is likely somewhere close. This I believe..is in the service manual

I did the starter grounding upgrade and a new Yuasa AGM battery. I have had this bike since 1989... Seems to spin a bit faster than I ever remember. Whether it's the battery or the grounding mod. Time will tell. Also one thing to do is to lightly sand the area where the mounting bolts contact/hold the starter to the engine. Basically get the paint off. This will also help. Cheers